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GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
My brother gave me this Eager Beaver 3.7 (same as PM610?). Said it ran well and is well taken care of with decent compression but is barfing bar oil out as fast as he can put it in.

Manual oiler knob seems to actuate properly but there is definitely a leak in the bar oil reservoir or related item? I just got it so I haven't started to tear into it yet. Any ideas on where to start and what to replace? (should I post this in the Mac forum as well)?

Are these decent resto/mod saws?? I know they weight a TON and compared to my other saws :jawdrop: its BIG for just a 20" bar :confused:

Thanks for any info on the leaking problem. On to the pics.

Pictures9-2-10016.jpg

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Compared to my other saws.
Pictures9-2-10014.jpg

Pictures9-2-10013.jpg

Pictures9-2-10011.jpg
 
Modifiedmark
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
19,290
Location
NW Indiana
I have never had one barf oil out as fast as I put it in, but I have had about 4 or 5 of those blasted things and everyone leaked at the block where the oil tank bolts to it.

You have to take almost half the saw apart to fix it as well. If you plan on keeping it plan to make a gasket for the tank like it should have had from the factory but didnt.

I'm not going to go on anymore about how I don't like those things, ( I think I hurt some Mac guys feelings when I do) do a search here though and you will find out more info on them.
 
thomas72

thomas72

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
1,452
Location
Georgia
McCulloch dropped the ball when they made that saw. I do not like them either. However, for a homeowner saw it is not bad.
 

GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
I have never had one barf oil out as fast as I put it in, but I have had about 4 or 5 of those blasted things and everyone leaked at the block where the oil tank bolts to it.

You have to take almost half the saw apart to fix it as well. If you plan on keeping it plan to make a gasket for the tank like it should have had from the factory but didnt.

I'm not going to go on anymore about how I don't like those things, ( I think I hurt some Mac guys feelings when I do) do a search here though and you will find out more info on them.

Thanks for the info. I don't know how fast it truly leaks as its dry now but I will start diassembling it and see what excatly is leaking although I am sure it's what you are describing.
 
Arrowhead

Arrowhead

RARE BREED
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
13,874
Location
Illinois
How do you like that Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner? My Uncle lives minutes away from a HF.... been thinking of having him pick one up for me when they go on sale.
 

GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
How do you like that Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner? My Uncle lives minutes away from a HF.... been thinking of having him pick one up for me when they go on sale.

Absolutely indispensable for me. Its undefeated on about 50-60 carbs people swore I could never get running. Few of them the people rebuilt with new diaphragms and still wouldn't run on high speed needle-the passageways are so small it's hard to carb clean them thoroughly. Pull all the diaphragms and drop them in...flip them side to side upside down on 4 minute cycles then shoot them off with air or carb cleaner and it's a one to two pull deal after priming and good as new.

If your uncle gets it make sure to get the "cleaner" they sell for them-it a white bottle powder. Use distilled water to keep goop down and they are great. Best $35 I 've spent on a tool.

I have the whole neighborhood bringing me basket case carbs to clean.

Also do the wife's jewelry when I HAVE to ho-hum...:monkey:
 
amateur cutter

amateur cutter

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
372
Location
sw michigan
Hi, I had a 605 with the same issue. A lot of disassembly to fix that stupid tank leak as mark said. Make a gasket, & replace the oil line & filter. That being said, those saw's are reliable, & make decent power for what they are. They're also heavy, loud, & the anti vibe is not great. As long as the oiler works, it ain't a bad saw imo. A C
 
Sprintcar

Sprintcar

Chainsaw Slut
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
4,422
Location
Lincoln, Nebraska
The McCulloch 600 series were one of the last fairly good saws that was sold by McCulloch. This design was one that is easy to work on, parts are plentiful, since they built a kagillon of them and for a larger homeowner saw they aren't that bad. The original line were the 605, 58cc, the 610 and 650, both 60cc and the 650 had a compression relief. They were also sold under the Timber Bear, papa bear, momma bear and maybe some others. The saw was also sold at Monkey Wards but I can't remember the model number.

The oilers are the weak point on these saws. Most that still run only have the manual oiler function that works. I was going to start a thread on the 600 series oiler overhaul procedures but have never got around to it. I know families that burn a fair amount of wood and swear by, and sometimes at these saws. I think we have four or five of these and the 600 series can be summed up as;

Built like a tank
Heavy as :censored:
Ugly as sin
Great ole saws.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


:givebeer:
 

GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
The McCulloch 600 series were one of the last fairly good saws that was sold by McCulloch. This design was one that is easy to work on, parts are plentiful, since they built a kagillon of them and for a larger homeowner saw they aren't that bad. The original line were the 605, 58cc, the 610 and 650, both 60cc and the 650 had a compression relief. They were also sold under the Timber Bear, papa bear, momma bear and maybe some others. The saw was also sold at Monkey Wards but I can't remember the model number.

The oilers are the weak point on these saws. Most that still run only have the manual oiler function that works. I was going to start a thread on the 600 series oiler overhaul procedures but have never got around to it. I know families that burn a fair amount of wood and swear by, and sometimes at these saws. I think we have four or five of these and the 600 series can be summed up as;

Built like a tank
Heavy as :censored:
Ugly as sin
Great ole saws.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


:givebeer:

Sprint do you have time to PM me the cliff notes on the oiler overhaul procedures ? Or post it here and I'll run with it as I do it.
 

GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
Hi, I had a 605 with the same issue. A lot of disassembly to fix that stupid tank leak as mark said. Make a gasket, & replace the oil line & filter. That being said, those saw's are reliable, & make decent power for what they are. They're also heavy, loud, & the anti vibe is not great. As long as the oiler works, it ain't a bad saw imo. A C

It has the manual oiler so at LEAST I have one thing going for me. What's best to make a gasket out of? Something like cylinder sealant when removing the gasket or make one from oil/gas proof material?
 
Modifiedmark
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
Messages
19,290
Location
NW Indiana
Hi, I had a 605 with the same issue. A lot of disassembly to fix that stupid tank leak as mark said. Make a gasket, & replace the oil line & filter. That being said, those saw's are reliable, & make decent power for what they are. They're also heavy, loud, & the anti vibe is not great. As long as the oiler works, it ain't a bad saw imo. A C


Thats a good point I forgot to make on replacing the oil pickup line while the tank is off. There pretty much impossible to replace without taking that tank off.

One other problem that I have ran across with them is the recoil pulley binding up on that plastic stud it rides on.

It has the manual oiler so at LEAST I have one thing going for me. What's best to make a gasket out of? Something like cylinder sealant when removing the gasket or make one from oil/gas proof material?

Regular gasket material in the heavier gauge works well. If you use a sealer like a silicone or such you have make sure you dont plug the oil passage that runs through it. Best off to make a gasket and be done with it.
 

GTP

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
52
Location
Greensburg PA
Thats a good point I forgot to make on replacing the oil pickup line while the tank is off. There pretty much impossible to replace without taking that tank off.

One other problem that I have ran across with them is the recoil pulley binding up on that plastic stud it rides on.



Regular gasket material in the heavier gauge works well. If you use a sealer like a silicone or such you have make sure you dont plug the oil passage that runs through it. Best off to make a gasket and be done with it.

I can use some of the tygon line I have around for the oil pickup line or is it a "special" part? I see alot of parts on ebay for filters etc for these things.
 
terry2tmd

terry2tmd

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Messages
264
Location
Escalante , Utah
I sold one of these to my brother in law, because it was such a solid saw, my brother in law is a mechanical idiot (surprised he has mastered how car keys work). I had no real use for it, big boxy saw, but a little lacking in torque for me, thought I was rid of it. Did a clutch replacement on one for a local guy, and ended up with another for partial payment, like a bad penny can't seem to get rid of it. So just tuned it up and now I got a good loaner. I guess for some reason I am supposed to own one of these, I just wish if I am supposed to own A Mac, it would be something like a 440, 797, or a 125, guess we don't get to choose.

Some one want to tell me what the screw in the oil pump is for, surely it is not oil flow regulation? In any case i found that if you pull that screw and ad a little thread sealant and reinstall it, not always but alot of time this will bring a dead oil pump to life, that screw is not as well sealed as it was supposed to be.
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

Mister Wizard
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
14,224
Location
Northwestern Wyoming
I have never had one barf oil out as fast as I put it in, but I have had about 4 or 5 of those blasted things and everyone leaked at the block where the oil tank bolts to it.

You have to take almost half the saw apart to fix it as well. If you plan on keeping it plan to make a gasket for the tank like it should have had from the factory but didnt.

I'm not going to go on anymore about how I don't like those things, ( I think I hurt some Mac guys feelings when I do) do a search here though and you will find out more info on them.

You're not hurting our feelings Mark. You also didn't say anything about not liking them until that last sentence. The rest was just helpful info. I'm not a fan of 'em either. A definite LEAP backwards from the 10-series. Decent beater/loaner saws however. I don't own one now. I never seek them out, and guys seem to price them at 2-10 times what I can get a good used 10-10 fixer upper for. The next one that finds its way into my shop (cheap/free) will become a loaner.

I heard there was a 10-10 trapped in that box.

LOL...
That's what 'they' told us (as these were intended to be a cheaper to manufacture replacement for the 10-10's in the farmer/consumer market). The engine IS similar to a 10-10 engine (they look close when 'naked'). I think we were cheated however. At least the 10-series saws were still produced at the same time (right until the end).
 
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