freeing piston after nearly 30 years in storage?

[WidowMaker1]

Diesel & Kerosene

 

[Justsaws]

Diesel & Kerosene

Acetone and ATF smells better, and clean up is easier, clean with acetone.

 

[mrnecsteve]

Take a compression testing fitting and adapt it to an air compressor fitting .Put it into the plug hole and start with about 10psi and progessively increase. (Setup the means to catch it when it comes out.) To figure out how much pressure is being applied ,use the formula area = pi r squared times times psi pi =3.14159 r equals 1/2 of diameter.

I suspect that the underside of the ring needs the most lubrication. I would use penetrating oil with the piston laying sideways,thru the exhaust port

There is an adaptor that you can buy for pressurizing a cyllinder. It is used primarily for holding engine valves in place while changeing valve seals in cars. The air pressure will also encourage the lube to flow deeper into the rings.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I have seen it posted here several times-

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison
test.*
**
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.*
**

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50% acetone - 50% automatic transmission fluid.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

I use PB bc I have several cans of it. I agreed with the ATF bc he was already using it. It probably helps to have acetone mixed with it.

Very interesting numbers! I wonder what their "scientifically rusted" environment for rusting the test bolts?

Thanks for posting this!

 

[67L36Driver]

Something I didn't know about 754's. The plug is on an angle where my Super 75A and Super 660 is straight in the center of the cylinder.

Eliminates the "insert punch and give it a wack" approach.


To the fellows who may not know or maybe missed it: The cylinder and crankcase is all one piece casting. The only way to remove the piston w/rod is to remove the crank and pull the thing out the bottom. The catch here is, you have to be able to turn the darn crank.

The air hose chuck adapted to the spark plug hole may be the only safe option.

 

[Stihl 041S]

Very interesting numbers! I wonder what their "scientifically rusted" environment for rusting the test bolts?

Thanks for posting this!

Guilty here. I have posted this a few times on AS.

Subjective. The guy torqued a bunch of bolts in a plate.

Let them rust.

Applied the different snake oils.

Used a torque wrench to break them loose.

He was curious. He found out.

 

[WidowMaker1]

Acetone and ATF smells better, and clean up is easier, clean with acetone.

yeah. but diesel and kero is readily available sitting around in fuel drums on the farm & many homes, that's what i use for cleaning tractor/car motors internal & external, for de-sludgeing a motor, run it instead of motor oil in a motor for a few minutes until operating temp then dump it, cleans the sludge out well. And old school with saws, fill it up with diesal/kero mix overnight (For just freeing rings if the piston moves-have the piston, sitting above the ports, and keep it topped up as best ya can, it will slowly drain down threw the rings) other wise for a seezed saw, fill up the entire jug/case ..... it'll unstick if its going to and clean out any old sludge from the old 2 stroke mix, then drain her best ya can out threw the spark plug and exhuast port... repeat a flush a few times, add a 'little' cap full of 2 stroke oil in the chamber for first run! start her up as normal with a 25:1 mix and she'll clean herself in no time

 

[ckelp]

sometimes your just screwed..
this one is from heat and diesel, the piston fused to the plateing:msp_sad:
<a href="http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/ckelp/Private/chainsaws/homelite%20775d/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_20120528_165637.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii555/ckelp/Private/chainsaws/homelite%20775d/IMG_20120528_165637.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[ckelp]

i was showing the flame, i put enough heat to the jug to boil the diesel and surprised me caught a lite...

i ended up beating the piston out with a drift.. the jug was toast, plating was pealing

 

[ckelp]

the worst part about that flippen' saw is on final assembly i found a crack between the bar studs and the crank.. that was the first saw i wanted to throw it in the street and stuff full of anfo

i did't do it unlike some AS members.. cough cough

 

[ckelp]

pm me her email addy i'll give her $25 to hold it for me...
your right, there's something about old heavy ass gear drives

 

[Little Al]

Your asking for opinions, here is mine.

Dump that ATF out of that thing and spray a bunch of Aerokroil penetrating oil down in it and let that soak. That is the best thing for rust and stuck stuff there is.

ATF is oil, it lubicates.....

As stated ATF on it`s own will take a VERY long time, & may or may not work, If you want to stick with ATF mix 30/ 70 with acetone, but be careful with heat put in an old spark plug, tip cylinder upside down & fill as much as possible blocking off ports as requirede. As a possible help stand in a bucket of diesel I guess it`s a time thing as mentioned it didn`t happen overnight & it will not resolve it`self over night it will thake time

 

[whatscooking]

I know this sounds wrong but use brake fluid, pour it down the spark plug hole and let it sit.

 

[mrnecsteve]

Something I didn't know about 754's. The plug is on an angle where my Super 75A and Super 660 is straight in the center of the cylinder.

Eliminates the "insert punch and give it a wack" approach.


To the fellows who may not know or maybe missed it: The cylinder and crankcase is all one piece casting. The only way to remove the piston w/rod is to remove the crank and pull the thing out the bottom. The catch here is, you have to be able to turn the darn crank.

The air hose chuck adapted to the spark plug hole may be the only safe option.

You can be certain it is sake up to the normal compression psi of the motor...probably 100 -120 psi.
The technique you should be useing for heat is NON destructive heat on the fins . Do this in such a fashion as to create a "thermal expansion wave" (i just made that term up :biggrin
What I am getting at is IF you apply heat for too long,the piston and rings will also expand from heat,( longer you apply heat)....plus you dont want to burn off your lubricant inside.
You could even go so far as to put the thing in the freezer for an hour before you start (women just love that idea...be ready to duck if youve got one (woman that is)
Think of the technique used for putting bearing races and cyllinder sleeves in place ...only reverse the sequence to take it out. freeze it then heat it rapidly...perhaps two propane torches placed 8-10
inches away for a maximum of 60-90 seconds?????

 

[Scooterbum]

Last one I did was an old Lombard, can't remember the exact model. One of the 70cc versions.

Locked up tight. stood it straight up in the corner and filled the cylinder with PB Blaster. Every day or so I would take a wooden dowl and tap it with a hammer through the plug hole. After about 2 weeks it broke free. Fired right up and is still running strong.
Patience is the key.

 

[Walt41]

Your asking for opinions, here is mine.

Dump that ATF out of that thing and spray a bunch of Aerokroil penetrating oil down in it and let that soak. That is the best thing for rust and stuck stuff there is.

ATF is oil, it lubicates.....

I have spent the better part of my adult life restoring junk...follow Marks advise^^^

 

[RiverRat2]

I have seen it posted here several times-

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison
test.*
**
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.*
**

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50% acetone - 50% automatic transmission fluid.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

I use PB bc I have several cans of it. I agreed with the ATF bc he was already using it. It probably helps to have acetone mixed with it.

Good to know I learned something,,, That is always a good thing!!!! but for not having to mix anything Kroil oil is pretty good we use it alot in our shop with good success,,, I guess if we get something that the kroil wont budge,,, I can mix acetone and ATF @ 50:50!!!! Oh and as far as applying heat,,, I wouldnt heat it more than normal operating temps,,, I have broke a couple free that cranked up and ran once the carby/fuel system stuff was fixed!!!!

 

[Walt41]

This is probably a good place to share this, I take the time (few minutes) to fog every one of my dumpster and roadside finds with some fogging oil on the inside and outside. It is amazing how easy it is to pull a part when it has been covered in fogging oil for a few months or years.

 

[Rokon]

Stick this guy in the hole!

 

[Sutterfield]

Well, its in the bath now. Sure doesn't taste like fruit punch.

About 1.25 quarts acetone and a quart of ATF. Cut the gallon jug and slipped the top back on to slow evaporation. Threw the old chain in while I was at it.