Getting into a tree

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Accessing a tree, which method do you use the most often?

  • ladder

    Votes: 4 21.1%
  • rope

    Votes: 8 42.1%
  • mechanical lift

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • spurs (leg climbers)

    Votes: 7 36.8%

  • Total voters
    19

Kevin

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What method do you rely on the most when gaining access to a tree (for the purpose of removing it)?
 
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I think ya gotta be more specific. When trimming, I usually use a ladder to get to the first main crotch, then use a rope/lanyard/freeclimb or whatever is appropriate for that particular tree to get to my tie-in.
In removals, I usually just gaff up using my lanyard. On larger ones, I will sometimes use a ladder to get past the first main crotch where my lanyard will reach comfortably around the trunk.
 
Hmmm Usually Spikes on a removal Actually Ive never tried a ladder but i can think of quiet a few times it would have helped out. If its a Large removal I'll climb to the top Install a Pulley run my climbing line in it and use the spikes and the rope.
:blob2: Thats if it has to be climbed Because i'll use the bucket Whenever possible.:D
 
DDM,
I`m inclined to think almost everyone uses the spikes but is your rope being used for life support rather than advancement?
 
Originally posted by DDM
Thats if it has to be climbed Because i'll use the bucket Whenever possible.:D

AHHH, bucket trucks! I sure miss running a crew with my own bucket truck at Davey. Nuthin like a bucket to ruin a perfectly good climber! :p
 
The rope has multiuses Getting tools,Drinks,Food :D into the tree, Support when going out to remove a limb, Getting down out of the tree for whatever reason with a figure 8. If i do a large removal without a rope installed i usually Wish i had installed one.
 
I can see where the rope might become a problem if it`s between your legs while climbing with the spikes.
If its used as a hand line outside your legs it would be less bothersome.
 
LOL After you spike it a few times get the spike Stuck in it you will quickly move it to the outside. :eek:
 
poll

When you get there without a bucket truck a ladder is nice. The crew that did the pine tree next door used a bucket to reach up the first 40' and that was all the higher it could go. They then put up a ladder. I asked Ken why he used the ladder when he puts on spikes and he said it saves his legs from cramping when he is up in the top, not having to spike his way up the first 40'. They do remove the ladder BEFORE they start to cut anything. Saves you from having to explain why you brought a pretzel back to the shop instead of the ladder you left with in the morning. So that's two votes for the ladder, mine and Ken's.
 
I usually install a climbing line from the ground and tie in. Then start spiking (removals only) with a ground person advancing the climbing hitch via the fair lead. With this method I don't need to mess with the lanyard and if I slip there is little, if any, fall. Having an overhead line can give your feet a break from standing in the spikes not to mention the saftey factors. When chunking down the trunk you can tie the end of the climbing line around the stick with a running bowline. Leave a long tail so you can decend on the line to your next cut and then pull the bowline down to you. Be aware that the chareristics of your hitch will change greatly when on a single line.
 
Mike, Depends.... Sit back in the saddle and brace with knees and toes. Stand on a foot climber. Stand on a ladder. Cut notches for my toes(only for 1 or 2 cuts on a large diameter spar) Strap on a couple of tree steps. Actually it isn't a situation that comes up very often since usually when I run out of limbs to stand on there is room to fell the remaining spar. Back when I was doing a lot of tall skinny pines (housing developments set in a forest) the footclimber was pretty handy a few times per year. Iam not against the use of gaffs for removals-I just never learned to use them. The idea of pushing out in the event of the gaff kicking loose is counterintuitive for a 'clingy' climber like me. I have considered trying to learn though.
 
Stumper,

What is a foot climber?

When Ido removals I'll use the best soluiont for the problem. I don't own a bucket so its one of the other three. Most likely I'll SRT into the crown and then maaybe have my spikes sent up. Many times I work the crown down without spikes and use the spikes for spar work only.

When its time to work the spar down, does anyone use a second line or just use a flipline for support?

ANSI Z133 requires two means of support when using chainsaw in the tree. There are several ways of attaching a climbing line to a spar. An adjustable false crotch is probably the most flexible system.

tom
 
Tom a footclimber is a device which is placed around the trunk of the tree. When weight is place on it the device locks into place, when the weight is removed it can be moved up and down the trunk. Various climbing treestands for hunting use come equipped with either hand or foot climbers( the hand climbers allow you to hang your weight on them while you raise the stand with your feet . the foot climber works in reverse.). Regarding using 2 lines when working down a spar, I do. My lanyard is usually doing the actual positioning work while my climbing line with friction hitch is cinched aroud the tree a few inches below the lanyard (occassionally vice versa). In effect I am using 2 fliplines which makes for more work in descending 1 block at a time but if I ever do something stupid and cut 1 line I should live to berate myself.:D
 
Mostly just rope for acess,I am using "spikes" less and less to acess the tree just get them sent up when needed. As I become more and more proficient with "pantim" seems less an less need for SRT, Spikes acess. The 'pantim also helps keep the rope away from the spikes.
I use a Bucket when neccesary ie dead or dangerous for climbing or just more efficient sometimes,yes they can spoil a good climber ,but "hourse's for course's"
 
I use the gaffs as little as possible, they get in my way when I'm trying to get a good tip tie and whatnot. I'll work down till I cant stand then have them sent up. Drop the stick as tall as possible.

if the rope is fouling in my gaffs a lot I will fairlead it through a biner on the back of my saddle.
 

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