Good limbing saw setup?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fields_mj

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
1,478
Reaction score
1,146
Location
Indiana
I have an old 024 and an 026 that I don't run as much as my 036 saws. They all currently wear 18" bars and run .325 chain. I don't run the 024 much at all in part because the 18" bar is already on the long side for the saw when bucking firewood. I'm kicking around the idea of putting a 24" bar on it with 3/8" chain and just using it for limbing (3" and under). The light weight of the power head plus the extra 6" of reach seems like it would make for a convieniant combination IF the little 45cc saw is able to pull it and oil it. Any thoughts? Will the little saw oil and pull that long of a bar well enough to limb, or would it be faster to hack through them with an axe (ie leave the 024 at home and use the 026 with it's 18" bar).

The other option is to put a 24" bar on the 50cc 026, but I do use it to buck smaller limbs that won't need to be split. I could delegate all of the bucking chores to the 60cc saws, and if I need to I can always take a few minutes to put the 18" bar and .325 rim and chain back on it.

What say ye Internet? :)
 
For limbing I prefer a short chain and small, light saw. Original was ms210/16". Then I discovered the top handle saws. I don'[t need any bar lenght as limbing doesn't require much b ending over Thus MS193//14" micro chain Rather slow cutting when layiing into a 8" limb but that doesn't happen often.
 
I wasn't just thinking about bending over, but also for reach. I'm not trying to reach higher, but sometimes a little farther would be good. Unfortunately, I do a fair amount of cutting in warmer weather when the leaves are still on. Sometimes, the limbs can be difficult to access due to thorns or other forms of brush. I'm wondering if an extra 6" might be useful, but the more I think about it, the less useful it sounds... Maybe the better option would be to drop the bar length down as far as possible on the 024 to minimize the over all weight and maximize the available power/torque.
 
I understand your point of a long bar for the extension purpose . I think 20in on the 024 or 026's is pretty comfortable with them. The balance gets quite nose heavy any longer and takes up considerable more power from the cut and acceleration. If you can find the bar length in picco u want to use it would handle the extra bar length better and works well for pruning and limbing.
 
You could run a 25” ES light bar with 3/8LP .050 on the 026. I run a 20” ES light bar on my 026 pro and the balance is very nice. Stihl makes a .325 pitch light bar if you prefer that over 3/8LP. Availability could be an issue though. Maybe.
 
I went with a 192T with 14" bar for limbing, like Turnkey's does with his 193. 6 lb saw is easy to use at my age. For the 024, I would tend to go with a 14" bar for limbing, just so its easier to maneuver, rather than go with the longer bar for the reach. When I happen to limb with my saws with 16 or 18" bars it feels rather awkward.
 
I use my Echo 3510 16"w/Stihl PS (3/8 lo pro full chisel) until I need my MS261C-M. I'm considering going to a 14" B&C on the 3510. My Echo 2511t and 3510 share the same bar pattern, so I have options.
 
I like a 16" bar and .325 pitch Stihl RS chain on my 026's.

But these days when I'm limbing on the ground I'm cutting with my favorite small saw, a 241cm with a 16" bar and 3/8P RS chain.
 
I like a 16" bar and .325 pitch Stihl RS chain on my 026's.

But these days when I'm limbing on the ground I'm cutting with my favorite small saw, a 241cm with a 16" bar and 3/8P RS chain.
Just had my dealer put me on his list for another 241. (They take saws on tradein). It was a shame stihl stopped selling them here.
 
Just had my dealer put me on his list for another 241. (They take saws on tradein). It was a shame stihl stopped selling them here.
Can you put me on the list behind you?
Always wanted one to tare into and keep it for myself.
I'm currently building a 200 all done up to run 18" lp
Got the rear handle parts from the wolf last month :)
 
We do a lot of limbing small cedars....like acres of the stuff on a regular basis.
I've used Husqvarna 242, 346xp 353, 440, echo cs400, 2511p, & cs3510 Stihl ms180, ms250, 026, ms261, and ms241
My favorite (by big margin) so far is the ms241. I'm running an 18" 3/8" low pro bar, but I think I'm going to go to 20" because 18 is too short for reasonable reach imo.
A longer bar does help with the backache issue while limbing, not sure I'd run a 24" on an 024, but it would sure be worth a try.
 
We do a lot of limbing small cedars....like acres of the stuff on a regular basis.
I've used Husqvarna 242, 346xp 353, 440, echo cs400, 2511p, & cs3510 Stihl ms180, ms250, 026, ms261, and ms241
My favorite (by big margin) so far is the ms241. I'm running an 18" 3/8" low pro bar, but I think I'm going to go to 20" because 18 is too short for reasonable reach imo.
A longer bar does help with the backache issue while limbing, not sure I'd run a 24" on an 024, but it would sure be worth a try.
Howdy Sawdust Man, just looked up the specs. on the MS241 and it is an impressive pro saw weighing in at 9.9 lbs. https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-t...insaws-for-forestry/21940-131/MS-241-C-M.aspx
 
Echo 2511 with an .043 12” bar and chain and a muffler mod super light saw wonderful for limbs
Mine's still stock, and as it is now it's just too wimpy for my style.
I love how light it is, and it handles great, but I'll have to get it ported or something because it's too slow.
I'll start with a muffler mod, and see how much that helps.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top