Grinding the rings

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So, you were a grunt machine operator I take it. Not gonna argue with you, I know what I know and I'll leave it at that.
I'm not so arrogant as to assume I'm better then anyone just because I own a shop.
There's a very good reason as to why I got out of machining, perhaps some self reflection is in order?
 
If it's on YT, it's most likely BS anyway. I watch YT for entertainment purposes only. I have my Journeyman's card in tool and die making and I'm a certified TIG welder as well. You don't make piston rings from cast iron. Maybe that clown does but not this clown.
you see it done, then dismiss it whos the clown here?
 
Ok folks thanks for the advice. I saw this effort as folly, and several have given some good backing as to why.

I'll just keep the gas clean and the chain sharp.
A very large amount of what ol Ironwhores puts up is straight click bait. There are a few ol husky's that run single ring but not too many for a reason. Reducing ring tension ? I thought that was called "break in " ?
 
Ok folks thanks for the advice. I saw this effort as folly, and several have given some good backing as to why.

I'll just keep the gas clean and the chain sharp.
if'n yer lookin for more power, muf modding is easy and generally effective.

gut the inner baffle, and open the exit hole 25-75% can be done with a dremel
 
I feel sad for some people that I see that post what they think without any research
Low tension rings do have a place in racing and high performance engines usually accompanied by ceramic bearings etc etc
A Dremel tool would not be the ideal tool
Removing a ring will reduce drag and have negligible effects on longevity.
Piston modifications play a big part in 2 stroke performance mods
Compression IS NOT KING on a 2 stroke engine
The rings do not support the piston in the bore
 
Can you explain how the rings dont support the piston?
I know they do.
Think of the piston as a teeter totter, the rings are on one end holding it centered in the bore, the wrist pin is in the middle as the pivot, the bottom of the skirt stays centered in the bore because the rings dont let it rotate out of center. If you run low tension rings or worn out rings the piston skirt starts to wear as it starts rubbing on the cylinder. This is why saws with bad rings have wear on the piston skirt and you need a new piston and rings to rebuild it not just rings.
 
The piston itself keeps itself in the bore hence the reason for skirts. The rings are compressed by the bore and float in the ring grove in the piston. They can not touch the inside of the ring grove or it would bind and lock up they are moved up and down in the bore guided by the piston helping seal the gap making more compression. If the rings guided the piston you could replace the rings and never wear out the piston
Look up “ring flutter” and ring shapes and their effects also piston pin location effects on skirt wear.
“the rings dont let it rotate out of center” put a ring in the bore and try to keep it square. You need to put the piston I to square it up that being said the piston is what is keeping the rings square in the bore .
The clearance between the piston and cylinder is what makes your compression the rings just seal off the excess.
On a side note the contact patch of the ring to cylinder is what transfers the heat out of the piston and into the cylinder where it can dissipate through the fins.
Don’t take my word for all this go do some searching and reading
 
“If you run low tension rings or worn out rings the piston skirt starts to wear as it starts rubbing on the cylinder.”
Pull apart a modern saw that has a tank or less thru it and see the shiny spots on the piston skirts. That is piston wear. so are the rings already wore out ?
 
low tension rings in a carbureted manually started engine :laughing:
builders will remove a ring after going crazy on a port to the point the edge of the ring might hang or it gets too close to the ring orientation pin. I wish other tubers would blackball iron horse, really tired of his lies and false information that inexperienced people that might potentially repair or try to build a saw might believe and try doing resulting in destroying their cylinders and pistons or even the crank/cases.
 
Definitely. I know in a 4 cycle around 1-2 thousandths is the target for ring side clearance and as the number grows, compression rapidly drops. It doesn't take many thousandths to make a big difference in compression, and subsequently a loss in performance.
Known as ring flutter and also caused by another condition not related to ring land clearance or backspacing.
 

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