Heatmor hot water not reaching furnace in house. HELP. Near Muskegon

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Brian Bundy

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Hot water from my Heatmor stove is not reaching the furnace in the house. The water in the stove is up to temp. and the water pumps are running but the water at the furnace in the house is still cold. Any ideas on what the problem may be?
 
Hot water from my Heatmor stove is not reaching the furnace in the house. The water in the stove is up to temp. and the water pumps are running but the water at the furnace in the house is still cold. Any ideas on what the problem may be?
I don't hae an OWB but it sounds like you have some kind of airlock. Is there anyway you can bleed the line from the stove to the furnace?
 
Brian sounds like you have a air lock in the system hopefully someone put a way to bleed the system when they installed it. I like to use the valves at the pump flanges that have the bleeders their. You could have lost a impeller off of the pump shaft.
 
I did try to force air out of the lines by closing to supply valves and open the in house water supply but it didn't seem to work. I'm not sure how else to bleed the lines.
 
I do have 2 pumps on the stove, one for the house and one for the barn. I don't see any way to bleed the lines at either of the pumps. Could an impeller problem at one of the pumps cause both heaters to stay cold?
 
I have one pipe each for the supply and return then they branch to two loops for house and barn. Both the house and barn are still cold at the furnaces.
 
how old is the system and type of material is the feed pipe. if it is galvanized you could have tuburaction ( not spelled right) in the pipe
 
Stove full of water? Feel the pipe where it comes in house. Warm ? cold? Valves open at a coil? Take a line loose at a coil and bleed it that way. Maybe unplug one pump and work on 1 at a time. And the return valve is open at the stove?
 
If you close either supply or return valve and the pump tone doesn't change, you either have dead pumps or a air lock.

What happens if you close the return and disconnect the line to a pail with or without the pump running?

My system has 2 loops also, 120ft run and about 30in of drop/rise for the shop and 180 ft run with - 4ft drop/rise for the house and I have never had a problem with air.
 
Stove full of water? Feel the pipe where it comes in house. Warm ? cold? Valves open at a coil? Take a line loose at a coil and bleed it that way. Maybe unplug one pump and work on 1 at a time. And the return valve is open at the stove?
Yes it is full of water. Pipe coming into house is cold. Don't know what you mean about valves open at a coil? Could you explain? Return valve is open at the stove.
 
Is this your first season at this house ? Not trying to be a smart butt. wondering. All my pumps, exchangers ect. are isolated with shut offs. In the event of a problem ie leak or failure I can quickly shut the valves and replace the problem with minimal downtime and water lose. You have forced air im guessing ? As stated above, never had a problem with air, it gets pushed back into the stove, where it goes out the top vent. If even one valve is closed the water will not circulate and get back to the stove to pick up hot water.
 
My stove has air locked before. I have my hot water loop plumbed into my domestic water separated by a quarter turn shut off valve which I use to fill the stove. In the event of an air lock I close either the return valve or the valve at the pump on backside of owb, then I open my fill valve in the house which forces water back through the system to the stove. If this doesn’t work I flip which valve I have shut at stove and try again. If that also fails your looking at pulling a pump off and checking it over.


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Does sound like an airlock. Or a circulator gone bad - but if you have a circ for each loop and neither is circulating that should rule that out.

Hard to say more from here, without being there. Or without lots of pics of your setup. The airlock should be at a high spot. A proper install would have installed boiler drains and isolation valves to allow for easy pump removal, and easy flushing by hooking up a garden hose. You might have to cut some pipe to allow for that - but we can't see from here. Weird how it's only happened after 9 years though.
 
Does sound like an airlock. Or a circulator gone bad - but if you have a circ for each loop and neither is circulating that should rule that out.

Hard to say more from here, without being there. Or without lots of pics of your setup. The airlock should be at a high spot. A proper install would have installed boiler drains and isolation valves to allow for easy pump removal, and easy flushing by hooking up a garden hose. You might have to cut some pipe to allow for that - but we can't see from here. Weird how it's only happened after 9 years though.
Thanks for all the help. Will continue working on it on my day off Friday. I have a plan on trying to figure out the problem. If I get it figured out or don't I will let you know. BTW, been at this house going on 6 years and first time this has happened. Talk soon. Brian
 

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