Heavy leaning trees

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gink595

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This proably isn't the place to post this but what are some techniques you all use keep heavy leaning trees from barber chairing. I have a few to cut and usually have not much luck with these types.
Before anyone mentions it, I don't believe the 361 would be of much help.:cheers:
 
Face cut as usual, bore the tree, establish your hinge and then cut toward the back, leaving a 'holding strap' of wood. Pull out of the cut and then release the strap from the back like a normal falling cut.

I've also read about a technique involving boring the face to take the center out before you start the back cut. Not real familiar with that one and standing in front of a heavy leaner while you cut the heart of it doesn't appeal to me much.

I've never done either of them, only read about the techniques. I'm sure a real faller will show up shortly with better or more detailed info.

Ian
 
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Face cut as usual, bore the tree, establish your hinge and then cut toward the back, leaving a 'holding strap' of wood. Pull out of the cut and then release the strap from the back like a normal falling cut. ....

I prefere that one as well, never tried the other one.......
 
The only reason you bore the center is to reduce fiber pull. If it is not a money tree then no need, unless you are trying to fell a tree more than double the bar length in diameter.
 
Strap it. Face boring is not right to me... The strap accomplishes what you want with out cutting your hinge wood at all.
 
The only reason you bore the center is to reduce fiber pull. If it is not a money tree then no need, unless you are trying to fell a tree more than double the bar length in diameter.

I believe the more than twise the bar lenght thing is the most common application over here.........
 
The Coos Bay cut is another good technique for heavy leaners too. It doesn't give directional control but it will allow you to work safely especially if you have a longer bar. Make sure your saw is runnning strong and your chain is perfectly sharp so you can cut fast.

I sometimes strap the tree or use a chain and binder to help prevent splitting. Then I use a conventional cut, very rarely a face bore. The face bore is tough to do on a leaner on steep ground.
 
The Coos Bay cut is another good technique for heavy leaners too. It doesn't give directional control but it will allow you to work safely especially if you have a longer bar. Make sure your saw is runnning strong and your chain is perfectly sharp so you can cut fast.

I was going to metion the same thing... but to add that there are variations of the Coos Bay cut that give good control of directional falling.

Gary
 
Gary help me out here with the CB variations. I have done a Coos Bay maybe 2 dozen times and mostly on leaners on steep ground. I generally make a small notch about 2" into the trunk and then cut each side of the tree so the cuts line up with the direction of fall. Then I back cut as fast as possible. The only variations I have done is to taper one cut so there is more holding wood on the side I want the tree to swing to. It won't swing much but may compensate for a compound lean. The other is to cut a small step and pound in a "block dutchman" to direct the fall away from that side. Both of my variations still mean I cut hot and fast.
 
Binders are the best way to take number of unknown anomalies like a hollow core, punky wood, or rot mostly out of the equation.
 
yep...

Cutting big leaning alders out here can result in a long section blowing out on the back... Bind it above the cut.
 
Guys, I've cut a log or two in my life but have never seen many different techniques used to fell a tree. Is there a site available that you know of showing the different ways?
 
D. Douglas Dent's book goes over the west coast techniques pretty well. Dunno what the bible is for east coast cutting.
 
Still learning and after searching I can't find much about a Coos Bay cut - does it go by another name for us East coasters.
Thx.
 
Got a leaning tree to cut? This is what I use to help!

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big heavy leaning trees are my favourite...

instead of the traditional wedge that looks like this:
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I cut the big leaners like this:

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Then bore the centre out, and start the back cut from the centre of the tree where you want the hinge established, working towards the back of the tree. leaving a section as a strap to stop a premature de-ereculation. Repeat from other side, then cut the strap starting from the back. falls where I want every time with no damage to trunk.
 
leaners

Bore into face, bore backcut, leave strap, cut strap.:greenchainsaw:
 
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