Heavy leaning trees

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The only reason you bore the center is to reduce fiber pull. If it is not a money tree then no need

er... no


you also use the bore cut to avoid a nasty stump explosion on high tension trees. I have seen one guy end up looking like a porcupine because he didnt take the centre out.
 
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maybe if it was a vine...
Well thats what im planning for this bugger! You cant see it in the pic but theres a big limb right behind the trunk and a bit of rot on the back just where you would want to put the strap.
It could clip the building or flatten the 2 small trees in the shrub bed to the left.
If its still standing when we get permission to take it down that is!

treeatpoint.jpg
 
when you form your wedge / hinge, have the front face of the hinge facing the direction that you wish to fell. Angle the back of the hinge away from the lean and it will swing around and miss the building.

Top view of the hinge should look something like this

._____
|.......|
|......|
|......|
|.....|
|.....|
|....|
|....|
|__|


How big is the base of the tree, it doesnt look that big ;)
 
big heavy leaning trees are my favourite...

instead of the traditional wedge that looks like this:
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_\
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I cut the big leaners like this:

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|_
./
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Then bore the centre out, and start the back cut from the centre of the tree where you want the hinge established, working towards the back of the tree. leaving a section as a strap to stop a premature de-ereculation. Repeat from other side, then cut the strap starting from the back. falls where I want every time with no damage to trunk.

Looks like a Humbolt notch, but I don't think that makes much difference for a leaner - it is more about saving more trunk in steep terrain.
 
when you form your wedge / hinge, have the front face of the hinge facing the direction that you wish to fell. Angle the back of the hinge away from the lean and it will swing around and miss the building.

Top view of the hinge should look something like this

._____
|.......|
|......|
|......|
|.....|
|.....|
|....|
|....|
|__|


How big is the base of the tree, it doesnt look that big ;)

Triangle holding wood - I use that a lot - works well, but not really accurate - but mostly close enough in my woods......:)
 
Looks like a Humbolt notch, but I don't think that makes much difference for a leaner - it is more about saving more trunk in steep terrain.

If you use the humbolt on leaners, the tree doesn't release as early. puts less pressure on the strap at the back of the tree.
 
when you form your wedge / hinge, have the front face of the hinge facing the direction that you wish to fell. Angle the back of the hinge away from the lean and it will swing around and miss the building.

Top view of the hinge should look something like this

._____
|.......|
|......|
|......|
|.....|
|.....|
|....|
|....|
|__|


How big is the base of the tree, it doesnt look that big ;)

Lol big enough! its the rot thats bothering me and that building was just over £1,000,000 were getting the cherry picker for a overhanging branch 100 yards away anyway
The last one i did here had a HARDENED metal bar inside the tree they were used as tree stakes for some reason, The tree swung around on the bar and landed right in the middle of the road instead of alongside it! Major panic to get a new chain on and get it clear!
 
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We Cut Alot Of Vener Tress In This Area And I Bore The Centers Out And Use The Root Flanges To Hold The Tree Up Then I Cut The Front And Then The Back Flanges You Can Use The Root Flanges To Swing The Trees This Is Probubly The Safest Method For Hardwoods This Also Kets You Get Low On The Stup Easier
 
We Cut Alot Of Vener Tress In This Area And I Bore The Centers Out And Use The Root Flanges To Hold The Tree Up Then I Cut The Front And Then The Back Flanges You Can Use The Root Flanges To Swing The Trees This Is Probubly The Safest Method For Hardwoods This Also Kets You Get Low On The Stup Easier

wow thats hard to read
 
We Cut Alot Of Vener Tress In This Area And I Bore The Centers Out And Use The Root Flanges To Hold The Tree Up Then I Cut The Front And Then The Back Flanges You Can Use The Root Flanges To Swing The Trees This Is Probubly The Safest Method For Hardwoods This Also Kets You Get Low On The Stup Easier

Could you explain that more? Pics would help.
 
er... no


you also use the bore cut to avoid a nasty stump explosion on high tension trees. I have seen one guy end up looking like a porcupine because he didnt take the centre out.

er....please read more carefully...

When I said bore the center it was in refernce to the center of the hinge, not the center of the tree.

I hope this helps you...
 
I use heavy duty strap binders, I have a set but have not been able
to find another as heavy! Mine are four inch but are thick with chain
instead of the small hooks I seem to see now!
 
The only reason you bore the center is to reduce fiber pull. If it is not a money tree then no need, unless you are trying to fell a tree more than double the bar length in diameter.

er....please read more carefully...

When I said bore the center it was in refernce to the center of the hinge, not the center of the tree.

I hope this helps you...

lol
 
D. Douglas Dent's book goes over the west coast techniques pretty well. Dunno what the bible is for east coast cutting.

Thanks for the help, I've used the side bore before but never have tried it on leaners, I guess it makes perfect sense, all the holding wood is gone before it gets a chance to rip. I'm glad people like that book from D.Dent I just ordered it and I am still waiting and waiting and waiting....
 
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