Heavy side leaner

[TimberWolf13]

Tree is a sugar maple roughly 16" dia. Lean is heavy to the right side facing from fall line. I think its main weight is kind of in the back right corner to be more specific. The fall point is pretty much only reasonable place as the tree sits right on property line. Falling in direction of lean is impossible due to no cut trees. The only actual good news is it looks like most of the top hangs in the fall side just not perfectly. My plan is to make a hum bolt style notch and then on the bad side, about 1.5" behind the notch, make a plunge in half way and take out the back right half. Before getting that cut all the way out I figured I'd put in a wedge close to the hinge but not right on it, so about 7 o clock. Then I would make the final cut from the good side, taking out the last third. I figure I'll have to drive the wedge a bit to get er to fall.
Here are my questions. Is this the best cut plan for this situation? Do I have to cable the tree away from lean to be safe? I am a one man operation so please try for answers with that in mind. Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated

 

[lfnh]

Having hard time "seeing" your description.
Sketch and pics would help some.

 

[bitzer]

Its hard to say without pictures or actually being there. Your hard lean may be different from my hard lean. I'd cut the far side hinge off and put a wedge in that back corner. Nip away at your good side and tap the wedge until you get the tree favorable to the lay. Leave plenty of holding wood so it doesn't break off prematurely and let it swing into the lay. This is of course if I were doing it. You can loose a tree pretty easily to its lean if you don't do it quite right.

 

[TimberWolf13]

Having hard time "seeing" your description.
Sketch and pics would help some.

Srry bout that, I kinda figured it would be difficult. Might be able to get some pics in the morning. Maybe this can clarify some. Looking at the tree from the projected fall line, it leans heavy to the right. Mainly toward the back corner of the projected back cut. The top overhang is toward the front but not in the direction of fall, more to the right, like the lean, than to the middle of the fall line. But it is at least on the fall side, just not lined up perfectly. But still most of the trees weight is with the lean, which is to the back right corner from the fall line. How do I upload pics from a tablet?

 

[HuskStihl]

Search "Dutchman". Bitzer just described it, but pics diagrams will help. Any way get a pull rope in it to help it along?

 

[056kid]

Open up the pull side, follow the grain, keep the compression side closed for support,(a face that will commit while the pull side has room to flex). dutch it or pound a wedge... and favor wood on the pull side obviously. Straight grain higher up will hold better..

 

[treeslayer2003]

i'm with bitzer on this, but pics sure would help. I don't like wedging too close to the hinge.

 

[TimberWolf13]

Search "Dutchman". Bitzer just described it, but pics diagrams will help. Any way get a pull rope in it to help it along?

Thanks for the replies from everybody. I still can't figure out the pics from a tablet problem but I believe I've got enuff info to get er on the ground now.

I can get a perfect 90 degree cable on it, but to develop my skills and test myself, I was hoping to not use it. I will check into all the ideas and appreciate the responses.

A lil more info. Tree is leaning to bout 2 o clock from eye level using a plumb. Another possible cut I was thinking bout using is the tapered hinge method. Anybody got any thoughts or experience with it?

 

[bustedup]

Thanks for the replies from everybody. I still can't figure out the pics from a tablet problem but I believe I've got enuff info to get er on the ground now.

I can get a perfect 90 degree cable on it, but to develop my skills and test myself, I was hoping to not use it. I will check into all the ideas and appreciate the responses.

A lil more info. Tree is leaning to bout 2 o clock from eye level using a plumb. Another possible cut I was thinking bout using is the tapered hinge method. Anybody got any thoughts or experience with it?

You've prolly done it by now (i been offline for a bit)............I like the other guys can't really picture the stick. Imo whenever ya "swinging" a stick ya taper the hinge to some extent or other......sometimes it the only thing that needed. Sometimes more finesse cuts are needed.


The guys have described them for ya more or less.


Again my opinion only but don't wedge next to the hinge Mike and I did have a convo a while back with some one on this and well short version don't do it you'll not get the lift your looking for and will increase the chances of blowing out the hinge but juss my opinion.


Ifn your pulling anything open the face. From what ya describe you might be better and get it where ya want ifn ya do that.



A word of warning tho using the finesse cuts and pulling are great ifn they go well ifn they don't then you could land yourself in a world of trouble getting theoretical advice is easy actually doing it is not so.......just be careful and safe


let us know ifn ya get it done

 

[NW.log.cutr]

Can't go wrong with a Dutchmen that is if you know how to do it.iv seen plenty if guys say they know but doing it is another story

 

[NW.log.cutr]

iv never been able to describe in words how a tree stands and leans. I think if your spending this much time trying to figure it out.you probably shouldn't be doing it....