Hello and a bit of help!

[Perplexed]

Hi all,

I’ve been a lurker of this forum for some time since I started a very modest collection of “0” series Stihl chainsaws. I gravitate towards the older ones, and my Google searches for info invariably bring me to this site, so I figured I might as well join the club. So, howdy!

My latest query involves the “handle frame” on a 041 AV with the raised lettering on the air filter cover. I‘d like to remove the handle frame to access the carb and other components, but I’m scratching my head over how the frame is removed. I was able to back out the screws that hold the handle bar in place, and the two screws in front that go into the AV mount, and I have the front of the handle frame loose. However, I can’t see how the rear of the frame is released, since the throttle linkage bridges the space between the carb and the handle, so I can’t flip the handle frame over and back with the linkage in place. I can’t get to the throttle linkage in such a way that I can remove it at one end or the other, either. Nor do I see how the throttle trigger comes out of the handle, etc. I have a copy of the service manual, but alas, it’s not much help in this regard, and I couldn’t find any YouTube videos that showed how to get the handle frame off the top.

Any tips or links to a removal video would be most appreciated!

 

[Perplexed]

Anyone?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If you click on “chainsaw stickies” right at the top of this chainsaw section, then find “beg for manual” thread you can ask for an ipl and service manual. Hope it helps.

 

[lone wolf]

@ray benson

 

[Perplexed]

If you click on “chainsaw stickies” right at the top of this chainsaw section, then find “beg for manual” thread you can ask for an ipl and service manual. Hope it helps.

‘Thanks for the advice. I do have a copy of the service manual, but it’s really of no help in this regard. I’m not very good at deciphering parts diagrams either

 

[ray benson]

Hi all,

I’ve been a lurker of this forum for some time since I started a very modest collection of “0” series Stihl chainsaws. I gravitate towards the older ones, and my Google searches for info invariably bring me to this site, so I figured I might as well join the club. So, howdy!

My latest query involves the “handle frame” on a 041 AV with the raised lettering on the air filter cover. I‘d like to remove the handle frame to access the carb and other components, but I’m scratching my head over how the frame is removed. I was able to back out the screws that hold the handle bar in place, and the two screws in front that go into the AV mount, and I have the front of the handle frame loose. However, I can’t see how the rear of the frame is released, since the throttle linkage bridges the space between the carb and the handle, so I can’t flip the handle frame over and back with the linkage in place. I can’t get to the throttle linkage in such a way that I can remove it at one end or the other, either. Nor do I see how the throttle trigger comes out of the handle, etc. I have a copy of the service manual, but alas, it’s not much help in this regard, and I couldn’t find any YouTube videos that showed how to get the handle frame off the top.

Any tips or links to a removal video would be most appreciated

@ray benson

Perplexed, check your inbox for an ipl and 2 service manuals. The old service manual is 75 meg and the photos are not real clear. But it shows some detail on the handle that the newer service manual does not.

 

[Perplexed]

Wow, what a response! I appreciate the help, folks - thank you!

 

[Captain Bruce]

‘Thanks for the advice. I do have a copy of the service manual, but it’s really of no help in this regard. I’m not very good at deciphering parts diagrams either

Deciphering a parts diagram is 3rd grade picture reading. It will defintiely show you what needs be removed, and any service manual would cover this exercise. You are missing the lower vib mt. plug...

 

[Perplexed]

Deciphering a parts diagram is 3rd grade picture reading. It will defintiely show you what needs be removed, and any service manual would cover this exercise. You are missing the lower vib mt. plug...

I’m glad you can figure out a parts diagram - wish I had your expertise

The service manual I have doesn’t cover this particular disassembly, but the one Ray so kindly provided without any snarky remarks will definitely help. Regards.

 

[Perplexed]

Thanks to Ray, I was able to start taking apart the 041 AV to clean it up a bit and install new fuel lines. I removed the air filter and the carb, and am down to the (discolored) white plastic shield beneath the carb. There’s what I believe to be the ignition switch wire running through a hole in the shield and up into a larger hole (red arrow in pic). If I’m not mistaken, there should be a rubber grommet in this hole? And according to the manual, it looks like I’ll need to remove the starter cord cover and the fuel tank to get at the bottom side of this hole - is this correct, or is there an easier way to get to the hole? Thanks!

 

[HarleyT]

Why do you want to remove the wire?

 

[Perplexed]

I don’t. Basically, I want to do two things:

1) Find out if there’s supposed to be a grommet in the large hole, and if so, what’s the easiest way to access the underside; and
2) Clean the heat shield and the areas underneath. I’d love to know why the engineers thought routing the wire through a tiny hole in the shield, instead of a notch in the side, was a good idea since the wire seems to have to be bare at one end or the other to remove the shield completely.

 

[Perplexed]

In the meantime, I went ahead and replaced the fuel lines and fuel and air filters, and I adjusted the carb by closing both the high and low idle screws, and backing the first out about 3/4 of a turn and the latter about 1 1/8 turns, according to the service manual. Then I attached an induction tachometer and fired up the chainsaw. After warming up, full throttle was about 9600-9800 rpm, kinda near the manual’s stated max of 11,000. The idle speed was around 3000-3200 rpm, a bit high (manual says 2400) especially since the chain was still turning pretty quickly, so I started leaning out the low idle screw, but the engine died before the chain stopped turning. I have the idle adjust screw (that comes into contact with the throttle linkage) backed all the way out, and the throttle linkage is coming fully up against the stop on the side of the carb so the idle adjust screw isn’t doing anything.

What could the problem be that the idle speed is too high and the chain is spinning, but lowering the idle speed causes the engine to die before the chain stops spinning? Especially since the throttle linkage is fully against the stop at idle, so the large idle adjust screw isn’t in play here. Scratching my head here.

 

[SteveSr]

In the meantime, I went ahead and replaced the fuel lines and fuel and air filters, and I adjusted the carb by closing both the high and low idle screws, and backing the first out about 3/4 of a turn and the latter about 1 1/8 turns, according to the service manual. Then I attached an induction tachometer and fired up the chainsaw. After warming up, full throttle was about 9600-9800 rpm, kinda near the manual’s stated max of 11,000. The idle speed was around 3000-3200 rpm, a bit high (manual says 2400) especially since the chain was still turning pretty quickly, so I started leaning out the low idle screw, but the engine died before the chain stopped turning. I have the idle adjust screw (that comes into contact with the throttle linkage) backed all the way out, and the throttle linkage is coming fully up against the stop on the side of the carb so the idle adjust screw isn’t doing anything.

What could the problem be that the idle speed is too high and the chain is spinning, but lowering the idle speed causes the engine to die before the chain stops spinning? Especially since the throttle linkage is fully against the stop at idle, so the large idle adjust screw isn’t in play here. Scratching my head here.

You likely have an air leak. In a saw that old it is probably the crank seals. The next thing that you'll do if you continue to run it is to burn up the top end.

 

[Perplexed]

You likely have an air leak. In a saw that old it is probably the crank seals. The next thing that you'll do if you continue to run it is to burn up the top end.

Thanks. Guess I’m looking at a rebuild, which will be my first one. I was hoping to get away with what I’d done so far - oh well.

 

[stihltech]

Wire is misrouted. That hole needs a grommet. The wire in the plastic flange is for intake screw access not a wire.
Intake gaskets, sand the bottom of the intake block flat for sealing. Crank seals a must. Oil pump oring prone to leaks into case. Clean end of pump and reinstall.
Saw from the 70s and early 80s. Reseal it.

 

[Perplexed]

Wire is misrouted. That hole needs a grommet. The wire in the plastic flange is for intake screw access not a wire.
Intake gaskets, sand the bottom of the intake block flat for sealing. Crank seals a must. Oil pump oring prone to leaks into case. Clean end of pump and reinstall.
Saw from the 70s and early 80s. Reseal it.

Thank you for the input! I’ll be looking for how-to videos and tutorials to do a rebuild; do you happen to have links to any such info pertaining specifically to the 041 model?

 

[doubleAgrader]

Any special way to line up that F*&*^% "2 hole spring" inside the hand guard so that the pin will actually go into that top hole on my Husky 395XP? I've been stuck on that little job for about 5 or 6 days.......Just about.......NO!

 

[Perplexed]

Ok, I’ve gotten the 041 mostly apart except for the crankshaft and connecting rod. The piston had a layer of carbon baked onto the crown, so it’s soaking now in acetone. No scoring on the sides of the piston; it looks pretty good actually, so I’ll reuse it. I’ve attached a couple pics; since I’ve gotten this far with the disassembly, should I go ahead and remove the crankshaft - or would that open a big can of worms?

If it’s a good idea to remove the crankshaft… what’s the smart way to do it? Will it involve splitting the housing in half (see above: “open a big can of worms”)?

I’m waiting for a new gasket kit and a new pair of piston rings. Anything else I should address at this point?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ok, I’ve gotten the 041 mostly apart except for the crankshaft and connecting rod. The piston had a layer of carbon baked onto the crown, so it’s soaking now in acetone. No scoring on the sides of the piston; it looks pretty good actually, so I’ll reuse it. I’ve attached a couple pics; since I’ve gotten this far with the disassembly, should I go ahead and remove the crankshaft - or would that open a big can of worms?

If it’s a good idea to remove the crankshaft… what’s the smart way to do it? Will it involve splitting the housing in half (see above: “open a big can of worms”)?

I’m waiting for a new gasket kit and a new pair of piston rings. Anything else I should address at this point?

View attachment 1086394View attachment 1086395

What are you hoping to achieve with the saw?

Seals and gaskets could be tricky to find, bearings may be proprietary too. If you decide to go further, it’s worth having a very good reason to do so, you may be giving yourself a heap extra work both in time and expense.

Did the seals leak? Did the gasket leak?

If not, I’d suggest to leave well alone.