Hello from BKVP

[Idahonative]

Are you a paid shill?

No, are you a Troll?

You get on here and act like you are interested in BK but then complain they are just too expensive. Then you insult an awesome company by saying their products are "fugly" and that they should start personalizing their stoves like WS.

Were you really interested in BK when you said this recently in another thread: "Tell you what. If my financial plans work out and I get the Woodstock ideal steel I want this year..."?

Have a good one Bro.

 

[Idahonative]

Secondly, get your head out from your ass. Reading comprehension and the ability to stay on topic are important. I'd go line by line and tear apart your moronic assumptions but I've learned that arguing with ftards on the internet isn't very productive or fulfilling. Save your keyboard commando fingers because I'm probably not going to bother with your response to this. They aren't kidding when they say you can't fix stupid.

Does the "B" in your avatar stand for Baby?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I have no idea what a clutch has to do with a woodstove?


The Princess won't do 40hrs on a load, no way. "Real world" on my stove, I've had enough coals to relit with no matches after 16-17hrs, but that was it. Normally I load the stove 2 or 3 times a day, all depending on the temps outside and inside. The King with the larger firebox I'd imagine could go a bit longer.

If people are saying numbers much different than mine, I'd have to say they are "exaggerating", much the same as some guys with the Dodge "Cummings" claim they can get 30mpg... you know pulling 76,000lbs, uphill both ways, in 10ft of snow, etc, etc.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

I'm in woodys exact position. NJ shore and about 1300 square feet. Corner install. I'd love a blaze king but the price is a killer. I've got a dealer about 90 minutes away. I checked them out last year and no offense most of them are fugly. I'm sure you guys know that already though. Form follows function after all. You guys also probably hate the comparison to Woodstock but the ability to personalize the ideal steel is so clutch in today's market. If you guys could do something like that and have the performance you are known for you would almost corner the market. I think the sirocco and Ashford definitely have some better looks but the price is a killer for me. If I had oil heat or propane I wouldn't care in the least but I have natural gas and I probably don't save any money burning because I'm a first year homeowner and have bought a trailer, a splitter, a stihl kombi and 3 chainsaws in the past 6 months due to this site. Factor in my time and it's cheaper to just let the furnace run. Don't for a second think I'm complaining though, I love every second of it. For a burner like me I can't justify the extra expense to buy a BK. Don't think I haven't thought about whipping out the credit card though!

I'm not going to be in NJ for life though. Might be a BK in my future.

What price did that dealer give you?

 

[HarvestMan]

Are you a paid shill?

Secondly, get your head out from your ass. Reading comprehension and the ability to stay on topic are important. I'd go line by line and tear apart your moronic assumptions but I've learned that arguing with ftards on the internet isn't very productive or fulfilling. Save your keyboard commando fingers because I'm probably not going to bother with your response to this. They aren't kidding when they say you can't fix stupid.

Don't let Idahonative bother you. He can't help it ... his BK enthusiasm has no auto-damper; it runs unregulated ... as he would say, like a WS

 

[Del_]

Does the "B" in your avatar stand for Baby?

We are fortunate indeed to have the V.P. of Blaze King posting here.

You are sabotaging his presence and Blaze King would be better served if you'd opt out of these conversations.

Please.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

We are fortunate indeed to have the V.P. of Blaze King posting here.

You are sabotaging his presence and Blaze King would be better served if you'd opt out of these conversations.

Please.

yes please don't ruin this

 

[Idahonative]

Yes, I've said it many times in open and private forum we are lucky to have VP.

If you guys will go back and read post #179, I said no less than three times "in my opinion". If you don't agree with my opinion, I'm good with that. A five week veteran of AS gives his opinion on BK and it doesn't add up to me. I called him out as being a troll and I think I have every right to. Remember, it's just my opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

Yes, I've said it many times in open and private forum we are lucky to have VP.

If you guys will go back and read post #179, I said no less than three times "in my opinion". If you don't agree with my opinion, I'm good with that. A five week veteran of AS gives his opinion on BK and it doesn't add up to me. I called him out as being a troll and I think I have every right to. Remember, it's just my opinion. You don't have to agree with me.

Dude let it go

 

[Marshy]

Okay BKVP I now heat with a Woodstock Fireview.Good stove but you have to replace the guts every few years.8 to 10 hour burns are pushing it.I usually get up about 4 am and refill it to make it to morning.I have heard reports of the King going 40 hours on a burn,I believe that to be more BS then reality.It may burn 40 hours but the heat out put does not keep a home inside at 70 when it is at 10 below outside for 40 hours,I just can not believe that.What I have read I believe the Princess would work for me.I am asking you not Idaho native or valley but you,what in reality can I expect in terms of burn time keeping a home at 70 in -zero weather outside?Also should I expect to replace steel inside the stove on a regular basis.Woodstock told me I am burning the stove to hot and this is because I season the wood for 2 years.What say you?

Wampam, I believe the 40 hr time you read about was a promotional thing BK did. I remember reading the article when I was researching them and they were not claiming it was usable heat for 40 hours but rather just that it held a burn for 40 hrs. Clearly, in the peak of winter it's doubtful most homes in the lower 48 will get half that time in peak winter. Obviously that is a huge generalization even saying that because it depends on location and a lot of other variables.

I' be happy if I could get 8-12 hours instead of 4-6 in peak winter. From what I've heard others write I think its achievable for my circumstance and could expect to use 1/3 less wood for the season. I might get lucky and cut my consumption to half but that might be a stretch and won't know until I get one.

@bkvp, are there any temperature instruments that you feel are necessary equipment to help operat the stove properly?
What about equipment that isn't necessary but you feel is worth the investment?

 

[bkvp]

A quality moisture meter would be a high priority. No other sensors are necessary, although I know lots of guys use IR guns for all sorts of things around the house, including getting stove temps.

As for the burn times we promote for each of our units, they are not "promotional" but achievable. Here is how we define then burn times. "The catalytic combustor will remain active (above 550F) for that duration of time."

Obviously, as we always say, that is a very low burn. There are thousands of stories of folks using their stoves on 50 degree days, on low and getting the burn times. Obviously, those same people experience shorter burn times as the requirement for more heat is needed.

What is unique we feel is that in most stoves you would need to be careful about how much fuel you add to the stove on a 50 degree day so as to avoid running yourself out of the house. With the thermostat, just pack it full and go do something fun.....like fishing in Alaska!

Chris

 

[Idahonative]

Wampam, I believe the 40 hr time you read about was a promotional thing BK did. I remember reading the article when I was researching them and they were not claiming it was usable heat for 40 hours but rather just that it held a burn for 40 hrs. Clearly, in the peak of winter it's doubtful most homes in the lower 48 will get half that time in peak winter. Obviously that is a huge generalization even saying that because it depends on location and a lot of other variables.

I' be happy if I could get 8-12 hours instead of 4-6 in peak winter. From what I've heard others write I think its achievable for my circumstance and could expect to use 1/3 less wood for the season. I might get lucky and cut my consumption to half but that might be a stretch and won't know until I get one.

@bkvp, are there any temperature instruments that you feel are necessary equipment to help operat the stove properly?
What about equipment that isn't necessary but you feel is worth the investment?

The 40 hour burn time is not a "promotional thing" in our experience. We burned hardwood a couple times and heated the house (not just burned) for 43 and 45 hours. Granted, our house is small (1250) and the King is over sized. But it was nowhere near 50 degrees out on either of those two runs. It was cold (mostly single digits) with very little sun shining. Notice the inside temp never fell below 69 degrees:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-blaze-king-distance-run.269274/#post-5126383

The forty hour burn has proved to be a real thing for us. But our setup is unique because I don't know of anyone else on this forum who put a King in such a small home. I don't understand why more people don't do it. Like has been mentioned, it doesn't matter what the weather outside is like. Load it full and let the auto damper keep your house at the desired temp.

It's also worth noting that we don't desire or even need a forty hour burn time. We just want to be able to go 24 hrs. between loading and the King has no problem doing that for us while burning pine (even on the coldest days).

EDIT: Concerning stove size: These stoves are very efficient while burning in the low end range. Yes, they are efficient in the high range as well but not as much. This could help to explain (in addition to small house) our fantastic burn times. Since our stove is over sized, it spends most of it's life burning in the low end. Unless it's very cold out, normal operating temp for our cat is 550* to about 850*. That seems to be the sweet spot for long burn times that will still produce enough heat to heat the house. In that range, there is very little heat wasted up the flue.

 

[showrguy]

I was planning on bringing in a fresh air supply towards the rear of the stove to keep the house from drawing in cold air (vacuum condition)..
Everyone I talked to about this said "not necessary", while I realize it is probably not necessary, it just makes sence..
However, one dealer said that the cooler fresh air "might" mess with the auto damper thingy ........ thoughts???
The same guy also told me that 30 acouple feet was not good for a stack/chimney height ??? Said it'd be too tall..

 

[blades]

Lot of variables on flue height, biggest are out side variables such as trees , other buildings , lay of the land. If you figure that it might have too much draft, can always add a manual key damper in the flue. Won't really know until the cold hits. I know when my NC30 is humming along and nothing else is on in that room I can hear the air being sucked in through the out side air connection. If I wanted to change the air in the house every hour I would have just put in a fireplace.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

[QUOTE="bkvp, post: 5491643,

What is unique we feel is that in most stoves you would need to be careful about how much fuel you add to the stove on a 50 degree day so as to avoid running yourself out of the house. With the thermostat, just pack it full and go do something fun.....like fishing in Alaska!

Chris[/QUOTE]

I certainly can't do that with my Blaze King. I very much have to base the amount of wood I put in on outdoor and indoor temps or it'll easily get too hot in the house.
Even most of the winter I have it dialed all the way down.

 

[bkvp]

[QUOTE="bkvp, post: 5491643,

What is unique we feel is that in most stoves you would need to be careful about how much fuel you add to the stove on a 50 degree day so as to avoid running yourself out of the house. With the thermostat, just pack it full and go do something fun.....like fishing in Alaska!

Chris

I certainly can't do that with my Blaze King. I very much have to base the amount of wood I put in on outdoor and indoor temps or it'll easily get too hot in the house.
Even most of the winter I have it dialed all the way down.[/QUOTE]

Yes, in Palmer you have the stack effect very few in the lower 48 ever see. So when you hit -20F, most folks are not that low and the chimney does not draw the same. Also, your homes (maybe not yours) in AK are exceptionally well built and tight. I realize their are exceptions, but most of the homes I have seen have 6" plus wall thickness.

 

[Marshy]

I was planning on bringing in a fresh air supply towards the rear of the stove to keep the house from drawing in cold air (vacuum condition)..
Everyone I talked to about this said "not necessary", while I realize it is probably not necessary, it just makes sence..
However, one dealer said that the cooler fresh air "might" mess with the auto damper thingy ........ thoughts???
The same guy also told me that 30 acouple feet was not good for a stack/chimney height ??? Said it'd be too tall..

If you did install a fresh air kit ideally you would want to heat the air before combustion.

 

[bkvp]

The F/A is ducted to the stove and is warmed by the 2 (2" dia.) steel air tubes before entering the firebox.
Most folks find the F/A kit helps use a little less wood and the thermostat setting will change slightly for before F/A use and once connected. It will not hurt performance, just enhance it.

The F/A line cannot be run above the height of the bottom of the firebox. It can wall or floor exit. In wall exits, be mindful of snow accumulation and possible issues related to snow fall blocking air inlet.

 

[showrguy]

The F/A is ducted to the stove and is warmed by the 2 (2" dia.) steel air tubes before entering the firebox.
Most folks find the F/A kit helps use a little less wood and the thermostat setting will change slightly for before F/A use and once connected. It will not hurt performance, just enhance it.

The F/A line cannot be run above the height of the bottom of the firebox. It can wall or floor exit. In wall exits, be mindful of snow accumulation and possible issues related to snow fall blocking air inlet.

My thought on the fresh air being delivered to the stove area, is to replace the air that's going up the flue.....Not so much as a "fresh air kit"....If that makes sense ??
Hell, maybe we're talking about the same thing actually ??

Edit :: I just searched some stuff,,,,,,,,,, now I understand what you are talking about..
Thanks, Chuck

 

[bkvp]

Chuck,

Please tell my wife that someone understands me!

Chris