Help diagnosing electrical problem on OWB

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dean06919

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 5, 2008
Messages
132
Reaction score
16
Location
United States
Hello,

I have a Pacific Western Cold Killer OWB, it looks almost identical to the older Global Hydronics and the Global Hydronics branded Hawken stoves.

I have been running it since October 1st without a problem, today it started to trip the circuit breakers. I isolated the problem to the breaker that runs the aquastat, light, and blower. On this model, when you turn on a light switch, the blower shuts off and the outside light turns on.

Blower disconnected, light switch in the off position (power going to blower) and aquastat in a position that calls for heat: breaker trips

Blower connected, light switch in the on position and aquastat calling for heat: breaker does not trip.

Blower connected, light switch in the off position and aquastat not calling for heat: blower does not trip. Turn aquastat to a position calling for heat, breaker trips.

Blower connected, light switch in the off position, aquastat calling for heat, little round thing disconnected (please see pictures): breaker does not trip.

Do you think it probably is the aquastat or the little round thing? What is does that little round thing do? One wire goes to the light switch and the other goes into an electrical conduit, it does not hook into the aquastat.

Should I perform other test? And what might I need to fix this problem. Right now I have my door cracked an inch, will it be alright to run it like this until I can get it fixed?

Sorry for all of the questions, any input would be greatly appreciated.

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/dean06919/DSC03533Small-1.jpg[/IMG]







 
i don't have an owb but i'm thinking your problem is the round black thing, which i think might be a temperature probe that is probably shorting out when its connected
 
i don't have an owb but i'm thinking your problem is the round black thing, which i think might be a temperature probe that is probably shorting out when its connected

Limit switch,
I think that one is called a bi-metal disc limit switch
it is basically a tempature limit switch.cannot tell from picture but it is probably a high limit switch that will kick a fan or blower off at a set tempature to prevent overheating or boiling.
It may also be a low limit switch ,used to turn something on.
if you unplug the wires from it will the breaker still trip.if it does you have found problem
if not you will need to look somwhere else.
 
Last edited:
if I had to guess, i would say the round thing is a water leval sensor, so you don't have a stove that is out of water but still burning full blast.
i had a stupid issue like this last year, my stove was wired to a GFI breaker. issue was a loose connectionin the aquastat. thus why it will trip when it calls for heat but has no load. what does your breaker look like?
 
The little round thing looks to be a relay switch. You are probably going to have to get a wiring diagram and see where the power goes to after the relay. That is probably where your problem lies. Or as others have suggested it could be some kind of limit switch that kills power if it is tripped. Only thing is most switches of that type have some kind of reset button, did not see that.

I lost a solenoid for the draft on my CB 2 years ago. I inserted a small screwdiver in the draft door until I got another. About 1/4 of an inch did the trick for me, an inch would have been too much.
 
Last edited:
thermal sensor.


The thermal fuse prevents circuit damage
A thermal fuse, also known as a thermal cut off, is another sensor product designed for high temperature control in electrical items. When an appliance begins overheating, the fuse will break the circuit. This protective measure insures against internal damage or external dangers like igniting a fire.

i believe that company went bankrupt(?) so, you might have to copy the numbers off the sensor and search around for one.
 
Last edited:
Here is a close up of that round thing. I have reason to believe this is the culprit. Can it be bypassed by simply connecting the two black wires that go into it




 
thermal sensor.


The thermal fuse prevents circuit damage
A thermal fuse, also known as a thermal cut off, is another sensor product designed for high temperature control in electrical items. When an appliance begins overheating, the fuse will break the circuit. This protective measure insures against internal damage or external dangers like igniting a fire.

i believe that company went bankrupt(?) so, you might have to copy the numbers off the sensor and search around for one.

That makes sense, I'll see what I can find out online using those numbers. Thanks Storm56 about the tip, I'll do that instead of leaving the door open an inch. Thanks everyone for your input, if you have anything else to add, please feel free to do so as all of your post have really made me think about the solution for this problem.
 
Yep, you guys were right, it is that round sensor. I disconnected it and tied the two black wires together. I then turn the aqustat up until it was calling for heat and the blower came on. I next turned the aquastat all the way down and the blower shut off. Never once did the breaker trip.

Think I could just connect the black wires until the new part came in?
 
This is a tempature limit switch--bypassing it all depends on what it is intended to do.If it is the low limit switch---kicks the blower on okay.if it is a high lmit switch--kicks blower off ..it is designed to stop the stove from overheating,by bypassing it drastic things could happen.

I google the number 610015 limit switch,here is what I came up with..

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/04_Cat_pages/04_Cat_pg_096.pdf
 
Bi-metal limit switch

Please don't leave the limit switch jumped its a common part you can get a replacement from almost and HVAC guy.

Based on the codes on your picture looks like you need a 209 degree NC limit switch switch.

You could use a limit of any tempure between 190 to 210F


Mark
 
Last edited:
Back
Top