Help.... Japanese Maple split

[paul1956]

My beautiful japanese maple has been split by someone landscaping my backyard. here is a picture. I had someone look at it and didn't like their recommendation. I would truly appreciate someone 2nd opinion.

 

[Stumper]

The split can be braced and the tree cabled but the landscape work I see around it will probably kill the tree within 5-10 years anyway.-Sorry, You probably aren't real happy with my input either-I'm trying to be candid. :angel:

 

[paul1956]

reply

Actually you had a great response until you told me the landscaping around it would kill it. Please tell me more. Thanks in advance.

 

[paul1956]

here is a larger picture.

 

[treeseer]

It all depends on how much root damage there is under all that new black dirt.
Keep in mind the tree's roots extend farther than the branches are long, and that this species is not very tolerant of disturbance.

How much machine traffic was there? Click the link below and read Avoiding, and Treatment of, Construction Damage. If you haven't paid the landscRaper yet I'd suggest holding back a portion of the check until the damage is assessed and the tree repaired. The root damage likely won't be reflected in the upper part of the tree until summer of 06, at the earliest.

 

[Kate Butler]

Not only is compaction an issue, but the differential between the previous ground level (before the work was begun) and the current ground level needs to be taken into consideration. It looks like at least a couple of inches of topsoil were added and much of anything over an inch can mess with the oxygenation of surface roots. This, too, is damage that doesn't kill immediately - it can take years for the tree to die from a grade change.

 

[Lumberjack]

The split, if tended to quickly with small bracing and a cable is of minimal concern to me.

Does the crown look thin to anyone but me? We have two Japanese Maples and they are MUCH thicker and vigorus.

At best the soil was carted in first with wheelbarrows (one is visible), but with all the pavers I bet not. Perhaps with wheelbarrows they would avoid the tree because they cant walk under the limbs easily.

The fine roots are most likely crushed. Irregardless to the compaction, the added soil needs to be removed to at LEAST 50% ofthe drip line (75% would be better IMO), there is a lack of trunk flare. I would think that the compaction could be eased with radial trenching. Replace the dirt from the radial trenching with a highly organic mulch/compost and use an additive to stimulate fungal growth (the good kind, Guy knows the name). Wouldnt this be a great place for compost tea application also?

An article I read recently said that the chances for survival are much better if action is taken as soon as construction ends (common sense).

There is bark missing above the crack. The edges of the tear are ragged, trace them with a razor to make the edge of the bark smooth, without cutting into the wood below.

What damaged the tree?

(So Guy, PM me and let me know how I did on my evaluation)

 

[treeseer]

We have two Japanese Maples and they are MUCH thicker and vigorus.

* Toronto's a little bit later than MS I think but yeah even so it looks thin, which is a baaaad sign.

the added soil needs to be removed to at LEAST 50% ofthe drip line (75% would be better IMO), there is a lack of trunk flare. I would think that the compaction could be eased with radial trenching.

* THat courtyard is a tough place to work an air spade. I'd fluff up the soil using a pick instead. The need to remove added soil is wholly dependent on the location of the roots; if deep before then yes take it off, if on the surface then a little added soil is good.

It looks like the new hardscape changed the hydrology of the site. If water isnow draining toward the tree and is prevented from draining away, that's a large problem for this sp.

use an additive to stimulate fungal growth. Wouldnt this be a great place for compost tea application also?

*Maybe so; ideal to test the soil that's there, and the added stuff, first. Microorganisms may help; macroorgs too like earthworms

There is bark missing above the crack. The edges of the tear are ragged, trace them with a razor to make the edge of the bark smooth, without cutting into the wood below.

*And be careful not to remove living bark--back off from moist, light-colored tissue.

What damaged the tree?

* Very good question.

let me know how I did on my evaluation)

* B+ :angel: