Help with finding a local repair expert that won't rob me!

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OuchmyCSBroke

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Location
San Antonio Texas
My Homelite 2.0 Chainsaw is 33 cc. I bought it in 1998. So it is nearly 20 years old.

Everything on it worked until last week. A home tool it gets yearly 2 hours max use, and is properly drained etc when not in use.

Running out of 50:1 mix I cannot find my usual Homelite brand so bought the HomeDepot generic now Synthetic mix.

Put that into my gas mix and set about cutting up a fallen branch. I get nearly everything cut up when I add the first fill of the new fuel. Too I had to adjust the L and H needles to get the saw to not die on opening it up. Everything then runs great, but saw is overheating and will not restart until it cools off. Inspecting the Spark Plug I see it is clean and looks light brown, like a car SP would if running lean. But because the mix is Synthetic I assume that running hot is Ok, I mean why would they sell the stuff if it is screwing up 2 cycle engines?

But thinking I have a carb problem, I get and install a new carb kit. Saw then still runs good but will not restart when hot.

At this point I make the error of removing the 'maker' installed limiter plastic locks on the L and H screw needles so that I can find out why saw will not start hot. Trouble shooting I service the ignition module and check spark plug for continuity. Find the S plug circuit open, probably because the saw was running so hot. Install new S plug, test it for spark, it is fine. Ignition is fine.

Result; saw now will not start at all, even if carb set to Zama recommendations for set up, ie 2 full turns out from bottom + idel screw fully in. But because I am priming as I try to start there is gas all over the place running out of the bottom of the carb intake opening.

Well I have been through a lot with this little CS, and I am heartbroken that it will not even fire. So I need a local Homelite guru expert to give me an estimate on fixing my little CS; or some good member familiar with such events - (there are probably loads of those due to this new synthetic mix )- would be able to explain what I need to do in order to fix it myself.

If it means I have to take it apart down to the crank case etc I will do it, but I do not think I have any idea where to look in order to find the problem. So crankcase gasket? ceals? ...

Noticed there is a wee bit of play on the piston when rotated against a probe in the SP opening. Could the bearings have burned out from overheating?

Thanks in advance for your expert help.
 

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I had, HAD,a customer that refused to mill with anything but an 029. He just couldn't figure out how or why he was smoking powerheads. We no longer do business..
Eventhough I have a good background on 4 cycle gas motors I have none on 2 cycle. Yet I would not be so brave about how clever I am on the former. I think humble is a good way to be if you want to be a better mechanic.
 
Carbs and fuel lines have a way of failing suddenly. My guess is that the fuel lines are rock hard, the diaphragm in the carb is also going to be pretty stiff. If the piston is good then it sounds like it's time for a carb rebuild and new fuel lines.
Nope! Gas line is Ok took a vacuum test and it is good an rubbery like it should be. Too the CS ran fine on a Carb rebuild. I now think it died because of the Homedepot Synthetic 50:1 mix.
 
Cost to have an "expert" repair it will be more than a new equivalent saw. At least that is what I would charge. I generally double my rate on all non-pro saws. Makes my life easy and keeps some of the worst customers from even showing up.
Harumph! The only bad customer is one not paying the bill.
 
If the OP can not fix his or her saw then it is time to buy a new one. ALL shops have to charge 300% of the value to repair a saw. They have to pay things like rental fees, insurance, taxes, insurance for their employees and supplies if they charge less they can not stay in business. If the OP does not want to order online then go to the shop that has the color of saws that they like and spend the money that the dealer wants and go back to cutting wood. I have rebuilt many saws that I like to use but my time is not cheap so much of my shop time is a total waste. Thanks
 
Sounds like at this point, the saw is just flooded.
Drain the fuel totally, remove the plug, pull the starter many, many times. Leave it out in the sun for a while, then pull the rope some more.
Then reinstall the plug, and refuel. Try to start it without priming.
 
It looks like the top end on that saw is just fine. Does not appear to be damaged drom the new mix you used. I think your problem is elsewhere.
 
Sounds like at this point, the saw is just flooded.
Drain the fuel totally, remove the plug, pull the starter many, many times. Leave it out in the sun for a while, then pull the rope some more.
Then reinstall the plug, and refuel. Try to start it without priming.
You are spot on. Thank you. I discover at the store that it is ETHANOL in the fuel that causes failure to start NOT the mix. Too it looks as if i maladjusted the carb that's why it heated up so much, too lean. Anyway after filling up with Trufuel, it has no Ethanol in it, I set the L at about 1/8th in from 2 full turns out, idle at the max, a few pulls with just a bit of choke and it starts.

Now to adjust this old saw is going to be somewhat of a guessing game for me because I tried all the suggestions on YouTube and none of them work. Right now I am having starting problems again, and seriously thinking new CS, perhaps it will have to be Echo or something similar as I nearly never need to use one anymore.

Thanks for the great and accurate diagnosis Mr smokey7 !
 
I got my CS going again :0) I am very happy that I did not lose an old friend, it seems, for ever.

Thank you each and all for the wonderful expert advice / suggestions. You are what makes the Internet so invaluable!
 
You are spot on. Thank you. I discover at the store that it is ETHANOL in the fuel that causes failure to start NOT the mix. Too it looks as if i maladjusted the carb that's why it heated up so much, too lean. Anyway after filling up with Trufuel, it has no Ethanol in it, I set the L at about 1/8th in from 2 full turns out, idle at the max, a few pulls with just a bit of choke and it starts.

Now to adjust this old saw is going to be somewhat of a guessing game for me because I tried all the suggestions on YouTube and none of them work. Right now I am having starting problems again, and seriously thinking new CS, perhaps it will have to be Echo or something similar as I nearly never need to use one anymore.

Thanks for the great and accurate diagnosis Mr smokey7 !

Omcsb, when I zoom in on your saw picture it looks like there is a low (L) and a high (H) adjustment opening aft of the starter handle . Where is this + that you mentioned ?
 

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