Help with super xl auto flooding problem
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Warped5
WingNut
Check your needle lever height in that carb. If there is an indent in the lever for a tit on the diaphragm to hook into, make sure it does.
KYsawman
Mr XL-12
If it is old enough for points, check clean and gap them. I have found many of mine that I have gotten that was the problem. The points get dirty from sitting and the timing gets off and then it looks like you got a carb problem. They are good running saws. Tilotson has all the parts break downs and troubleshooting manuals on their web site. Your will be the HS series carb.
I did make sure the needle hooked into the diaphragm correctly. I will check the points next however I can't imagine how bad points would cause the carb to flood. Can you enlighten me on that one KYsawman? Thanks guys
tickhound93
ArboristSite Guru
Bad points or ignition timing easily simulates flooding. It doesnt take a lot of pulls to flood these things out, if your point contacts are weak, or your timing is way retarded or advanced, the spark may not have enough voltage to jump the electrode, or timing that is way off may result in good spark, but at improper timing and not light the fuel charge.
Bret4207
ArboristSite Guru
If it has a spark arrestor screen in the muffler, check that for clogs. If the charge can't get out the exhaust easily the saw floods.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I acquired an 028 wood boss recently that was real hard to start. When it did start it would flood up. Only way to keep it running was to hold it wide open. Tried carb. adjustment and a carb rebuild. Finally, thanks to info on this site, I replaced the coil with the electronic coil that is used on the 024, 026, 034, etc. Saw starts and runs like a champ. Obviously it was a point or timing issue all along.
KYsawman
Mr XL-12
Dirty and bad adjustment on points can cause the spark to not happen right time which can cause the combustion not to occur completely. The newer saws with electronic ignition you don't have to worry about timing issues because it does not change. Points often get overlooked as a problem due to the fact that they are not common place anymore. I love the old Homelites and always clean and set the gap on points first before I do anything else.
Couple of thoughts;
When you go back through the carb, pay attention to the order of the gaskets and diaphragms. On the pump side its carb casting first, followed by the diaphragm and then the gasket and then the cover. For the metering side its casting then gasket then diaphragm, then cover. Notice that the order is reversed from side to side, and you might have the gaskets and diaphragms mixed up which will cause it to flood.
Also its possible that the carb has some varnish in it, the inlet needle may be having trouble sealing. How you fix this is to polish the seat where the inlet needle sits. Take the carb apart, removing the gaskets, diaphragms needle and lever etc and work over the sink. Water wont harm the carb. Go get a q-tip and cut it in half. Next, find some liquid silver polish (Wife, GF or Mom will have it) Hold the q-tip by the cotton part and insert the shaft into the area where the needle would ride. Turn the q-tip with your finger tips after dipping it in the polish. Do this a couple times. No force is necessary, all your doing is polishing. Wash all the polish out of the carb and let it dry. Install a new needle. Set the lever height and install the gaskets and diaphragms.
Varnish builds up in strange places. You can see the rubber inlet needle tip having trouble seating on an uneven surface.
When you go back through the carb, pay attention to the order of the gaskets and diaphragms. On the pump side its carb casting first, followed by the diaphragm and then the gasket and then the cover. For the metering side its casting then gasket then diaphragm, then cover. Notice that the order is reversed from side to side, and you might have the gaskets and diaphragms mixed up which will cause it to flood.
Also its possible that the carb has some varnish in it, the inlet needle may be having trouble sealing. How you fix this is to polish the seat where the inlet needle sits. Take the carb apart, removing the gaskets, diaphragms needle and lever etc and work over the sink. Water wont harm the carb. Go get a q-tip and cut it in half. Next, find some liquid silver polish (Wife, GF or Mom will have it) Hold the q-tip by the cotton part and insert the shaft into the area where the needle would ride. Turn the q-tip with your finger tips after dipping it in the polish. Do this a couple times. No force is necessary, all your doing is polishing. Wash all the polish out of the carb and let it dry. Install a new needle. Set the lever height and install the gaskets and diaphragms.
Varnish builds up in strange places. You can see the rubber inlet needle tip having trouble seating on an uneven surface.
Mainly, just make sure the lever tip is even with the floor of the carb nearest the lever and that the gasket goes on before the diaphragm.
Would not hurt to a pressure and pop off tests too. I have on rare occasions where the needle seat itself was leaking. I have replace 3 carburetors in the last 4 yrs that this was the cause of flooding. No particular carburetor manufacture as all were different.
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