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Typical day. A couple of the ten on that day...and the LAST warm day of Fall 2023, frozen ground and now snow will "grace" the next couple of video's.





You get more lift over distance driving the wedge sideways, as opposed to with your backcut, especially with a long/banana wedge.

There's also angling the face cut with the highside being the direction of the increased pull. Your back-cut/hinge still has to be parallel with the face, both being out of angle with the trunk. Combined with a Dutchman and/or wedging (especially from the downslope of the backcut upward), you can get a good majority of trees to swing 90*+, all factors pending.
Many leaners can already be cut 90* if they are small enough, just by not cutting with the lean; just as often, limb-weight contradicts that and you expect to meet in the middle. Last-ditch efforts could involve nipping holding wood off the face (interior or underside, different circumstances) or hinge to undermine or twist/spin the tree free.

Always interested to see the clone-saws in action!
 
And I certainly appreciate feed back and constructive conversation that actually has value , thank you :) If you have a YouTube channel post up examples.... or if you want I'm in the middle of a job with trees such as I show there, most leaners or I have to redirect. I can "create" situations to show those things. Partly because some are from an old "sugar bush" so I don't care as much about the pulls. Have another 100plus to play with. I regularly drive wedges from the sides for two reasons as I did in this video, one to unload the "loaded" lean side hinge/support the tree and as you mentions to get more lift assuming the weight isn't too heavy to move that hinge in. NEXT video I'm going to set up a "back lean" closing up and using zinc wedges :) . I don't swing tree's often, just try to be "block & tackle". MOST of my tree's I've been cutting are leaners to the side and back. I only video's a couple , usually the straight forward ones. AND I really try to avoid pulls. The fiber is really strong in these Maples, almost Ash like. AND that clone is going to entice me to buy a true OEM Husqvarna 395, they are "on sale" for around $1100 right now, i think because the 592 is pushing them out of the catalogue.
 
I also want to point out as a general rule, if a saw isn't configured to make my job easier, I change the saw. Ditched the full wrap on the g395, have a half wrap coming for the 572. Why would I force a saw configuration? Build a tool that works best for a given situation, if I have to work around a feature.... change it or buy something I don't have to work around. Going back into a "heavy" seasons of time in the woods, re-evaluating all my stuff like I do from time to time. The Husqvarna 585 works best set up with the two bucking spikes, 28inch bar & 1/2 wrap for me. Best saw for my work in the inventory right now :) A 592 would probably be better. Might for fun graft a 592 top end on my 585 to gain a little displacement. Torque as well.
 

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