Homelite 360 Automatic; My latest project

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Knucklebuster

Knucklebuster

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Received this Homelite 360 Automatic saw free from a guy cleaning out his barn in a house he bought. The thing came with the chain razor sharp, oil tank full. Like someone had been cutting with it and just put her away and moved out. Nice shape and she's a beast. So I tear down the carb and check all the lines, clean the filter, muffler, install a new rope, etc. Put her all back together and she doesn't start. So I order a complete carb kit. Installed ALL the new parts in the kit, so she's got a complete carb rebuild. She still won't start. I've got both carb screws turned one full turn out. All the lines and filter are in good shape. Spark and compression are good. Now, here's the thing. If I pour a little pre-mix down the throat, she starts on one pull, screams until the fuel is gone and then dies. So she seems to be not getting fuel. The pulse line goes down inside and I started tearing her down, then realized, this is no easy task. And I don't really want to do it on this saw. So I guess my question is, what are the starting points on the H/L screws? and am I missing something obvious here? I'm this close to having a beautiful 20" saw and REALLY don't want to do the tear-down, and don't think it's necessary. I've already torn it down below the flywheel and she's clean as a whistle. Just fishing here folks, as you guys are always my best source when I'm stuck. Thanks!
 
You're going to have to do the tear down. I can almost guarantee that you need a new intake boot (and change the impulse line while you're there).
The tear down looks like a PITA, but once you've done it you'll realize that it's not a big deal. Really. It's easier than a lot of saws I've worked on.
They're good saws and yours looks to be in good condition. Definitely worth the effort and $20 +/- for a new intake boot.
 
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Brian VT said:
You're going to have to do the tear down. I can almost guarantee that you need a new intake boot (and change the impulse line while you're there).
The tear down looks like a PITA, but once you've done it you'll realize that it's not a big deal. Really. It's easier than a lot of saws I've worked on.
They're good saws and yours looks to be in good condition. Definitely worth the effort and $20 +/- for a new intake boot.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Brian. That's what I was afraid of. Yeah, she's in nice shape for the apparent age; I've sanded down the top cover and primed it. Didn't have any orange paint on hand, so left it primer for now.
 
The issue is, I have plenty of other stuff to work on that I can make a buck on (and if I fix this saw, I'll probably keep it); I'd rather sell this if I could get a decent buck for it. But it's hard to sell equipment that doesn't run. Perhaps a trade for store credit with my local shop. Any idea what this may be worth in this condition?
 
I doubt your local shop will want it.
Your best bet for making a buck would be Ebay.
I just took in an 025 I might could trade. How far are you from Glens Falls ?
 
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Forgot the pic....
 
Boot is easy to fix. I sold mine to a member here. Kinda wish I hadn't. Not fixed I wouldn't give more than $20 for it because they're on CL just like that at that price all the time. Every single one runs great but needs the boot.
 
I've done the boot on two saws, it's not that bad, but you'll wonder what masochistic designer came up with it.

Not to hijack, but any ideas on a 360 that will start and run fine ... for a while, then die and not start till cool? Sounds like a bad coil to me, but these have those weird transformer coils mounted to the spark plug. Anyone got a good soruce for a replacement???
 
Brian VT said:
I doubt your local shop will want it.
Your best bet for making a buck would be Ebay.
I just took in an 025 I might could trade. How far are you from Glens Falls ?
Click to expand...

Brian, I'm an hour South of GF. About 10 minutes from the end of the Northway (I-87). Let me know the deal on that 025. I've got one Stihl and have learned about the b a s t a r d parts the hard way.
If it runs and doesn't need parts, then a trade might work out for both of us.
 
David Y. said:
I did a boot replace a couple years ago and took some pics.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/104682.htm

The guy I bought the boot from claimed he could do the replacement without taking the top off, but I don't see that as working too well.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for that, David. I can do that, no sweat. The "Tear-Down" I was talking about was to get that impulse line out and back in; thought I was gonna have to rip the whole saw apart. I've done that plenty of times on other saws, but this thing is like a big puzzle. You also answered one of my initial questions about the turns on the carb jets. As I said, I only have them ONE turn out, which works on most 2 strokes for a starting point. You said 8 to 9 turns. Very possible that this is my problem from the get go. I've turned them out a bit, but never that far. 2 turns is as far as I've gone, and I didn't spend a whole lot of time messing with it, as that beast wears me out pulling it; the compression is awesome. Thanks again. I may not get back to it til after the weekend tho. It's Football and Daughter w/end.
 
My Dad's 360 is comparable to my 55 rancher , probably a little slower and def. heavyer . He's had it prob. 30+ yrs , only changed plugs . Reliable ? u betcha !!!
 
Knucklebuster said:
You also answered one of my initial questions about the turns on the carb jets. As I said, I only have them ONE turn out, which works on most 2 strokes for a starting point. You said 8 to 9 turns. Very possible that this is my problem from the get go.
Click to expand...
Wait. What ? Never heard of such a thing. 8-9 turns and you'd probably have the needle out of the carb.
It should run fine at 1 turn out on both. If not, there's a problem.

Knucklebuster said:
Let me know the deal on that 025.
Click to expand...
I told the guy 2 months ago that I didn't want it. Today, for the 3rd time, he insisted that I take it. I figured, "Ok, maybe I can use the bar and chain as a spare for my 024 AVS."
It looks pretty nice, but you can't pull it over. Might be locked up. Might just have a problem in the recoil. I dunno.
Like you said about the 360, I've got other stuff that I'd rather be messing with.
 
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Knucklebuster said:
Thanks so much for that, David. I can do that, no sweat. The "Tear-Down" I was talking about was to get that impulse line out and back in; thought I was gonna have to rip the whole saw apart. I've done that plenty of times on other saws, but this thing is like a big puzzle. You also answered one of my initial questions about the turns on the carb jets. As I said, I only have them ONE turn out, which works on most 2 strokes for a starting point. You said 8 to 9 turns. Very possible that this is my problem from the get go. I've turned them out a bit, but never that far. 2 turns is as far as I've gone, and I didn't spend a whole lot of time messing with it, as that beast wears me out pulling it; the compression is awesome. Thanks again. I may not get back to it til after the weekend tho. It's Football and Daughter w/end.
Click to expand...

Glad to help. I'm guessing that it is probably the boot, and the impulse line is fine. As someone else pointed out, they go bad pretty often. I hope my new one hasn't gone bad just sitting around, as I don't use it much.

Mine was a mess when I got it. The previous owner had figured out that the boot was bad and had attempted to fix it by wrapping black electrical tape around the remnants of the boot. Needless to say it didn't work. The airleak was so bad it needed the 8-9 turns just to get any fuel in the piston.

After I got the new boot on I used the normal initial of 1 for high and low.

One last thing. I think you have to order the square gasket that fits between the carb and the gasket(the one I made) seperately or make your own. I don't think it comes with the boot or the carb kit. Yours may be reusable. It's also helpfull if the round spring is still on the old boot and you don't have to get a new one like I did.
 
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Brian VT said:
Wait. What ? Never heard of such a thing. 8-9 turns and you'd probably have the needle out of the carb.
It should run fine at 1 turn out on both. If not, there's a problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought that sounded extreme, but he explained below that this was due to the severe air leak

Brian VT said:
I told the guy 2 months ago that I didn't want it. Today, for the 3rd time, he insisted that I take it. I figured, "Ok, maybe I can use the bar and chain as a spare for my 024 AVS."
It looks pretty nice, but you can't pull it over. Might be locked up. Might just have a problem in the recoil. I dunno.
Like you said about the 360, I've got other stuff that I'd rather be messing with.
Click to expand...

That's fine. I thought I had to tear the entire saw apart to fix it. After seeing the post above, I see what I'm up against. Will not be a problem for me. Thanks anyway.
 
David Y. said:
Glad to help. I'm guessing that it is probably the boot, and the impulse line is fine. As someone else pointed out, they go bad pretty often. I hope my new one hasn't gone bad just sitting around, as I don't use it much.

Mine was a mess when I got it. The previous owner had figured out that the boot was bad and had attempted to fix it by wrapping black electrical tape around the remnants of the boot. Needless to say it didn't work. The airleak was so bad it needed the 8-9 turns just to get any fuel in the piston.

After I got the new boot on I used the normal initial of 1 for high and low.

One last thing. I think you have to order the square gasket that fits between the carb and the gasket(the one I made) seperately or make your own. I don't think it comes with the boot or the carb kit. Yours may be reusable. It's also helpfull if the round spring is still on the old boot and you don't have to get a new one like I did.
Click to expand...

I made that gasket yesterday when I rebuilt the carb. Thanks for the heads up and Thanks Again for the help. I'll update you guys when I git'r'done.
 

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