Homelite Chainsaws

[OREGONLOGGER]

Good C-5 stuff I have two that have been setting in the shop for some time now but winter projects are fun!!. Heavy winds here today in the Cascade mountains so it's time to bring out my big Homelite Super 2100...and think I'm 25 again!! ..I'm 52

 

[67L36Driver]

OREGONLOGGER: Post a pic. of that Rem. 75A in the Rem./Mall thread. We like to see old warriors.

 

[Whiskers]

Homie 2000

Here you go, my contribution to the thread.

Homie 2000 Automatic

 

[Whiskers]

Homelite 2000 Automatic

Here's a saw I recently picked up.

Homie 2000 Automatic

 

[uriedog]

So i decided to put a new carb on my piped XL-Automatic. Bought one for a super XL thinking it was the same saw. Well the carb is a bit bigger (bolts up fine though) the fuel inlet was about 2 times the size. So changed the fuel line for a bigger one, pre tuned the carb. pulled it over twice and it fired rite up. Still needs some time tuning as it is a bit sluggish rite now. But man it works allot better then that old stock Zama carb that was on there

 

[struggle]

After the other guy running the xl-101 I had to dig into the xl-113:msp_w00t:

OLD number 3 will be back in the wood hopefully soon!

[video=youtube;Aw-3N-VgNBs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw-3N-VgNBs[/video]

 

[67L36Driver]

After the other guy running the xl-101 I had to dig into the xl-113:msp_w00t:

OLD number 3 will be back in the wood hopefully soon!

[video=youtube;Aw-3N-VgNBs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw-3N-VgNBs[/video]

Carefull with runnin' that without a clutch cover. The clutch spun off and out into the school grounds on my XL-123 two wks ago. Found everything except the caged needle bearing in the drum. Darn lucky I found any of it.

 

[struggle]

Carefull with runnin' that without a clutch cover. The clutch spun off and out into the school grounds on my XL-123 two wks ago. Found everything except the caged needle bearing in the drum. Darn lucky I found any of it.

I have read that several times of the happening but I guess I assumed it was becuase the clutch itself was put on not tight. But you are saying it will do it even with the clutch not being touched:msp_scared:

Will not do that anymore then.

 

[67L36Driver]

C5 Recoil Addendum.

Finally got the recoil fixed and the fuel tank back together. Ran him this morning but can't get the carb adjusted worth poo-poo. Took it apart and someone had swapped the H and L needles. Going to pick up a kit and go through him.

Is it necessary or a good idea to pop out the welch plug? From the diagram, nothing a Gumout jet spray won't fix.

I didn't have a good 3/8 x 7 rim sprocket laying around only a .404 x 7. Mounted a Windsor 20 hardnose w .404 pitch chain.

Bad news is: The fuel tank seaps at an old weld repair in the bottom. Just enuff to make a mess over time.

Been using Wifey's 'puter as the house guests are staying in my 'puter room. They leave late tomorrow.

 

[Ambull]

I have read that several times of the happening but I guess I assumed it was becuase the clutch itself was put on not tight. But you are saying it will do it even with the clutch not being touched:msp_scared:

Will not do that anymore then.

The clutch is unlikely to come loose when you have a bar and chain on the saw. Without that, the momentum of the clutch is trying to loosen itself during deceleration. Couple that with the lack of a clutch cover, and bad things can happen. I did it with my McCulloch SP125. Luckily all the parts stayed in the garage.

My saw is a 102 Automatic, but close enough. Your saw has some nice potential. Thanks for sharing the vid.

 

[67L36Driver]

I have read that several times of the happening but I guess I assumed it was becuase the clutch itself was put on not tight. But you are saying it will do it even with the clutch not being touched:msp_scared:

Will not do that anymore then.

I had beat on mine the night before trying to get it off with no visible results. Boy, was I fooled.

If you need any of the misc. stupid small parts for that 103 give me a shout. I have three projects going and a few leftovers from two junk powerheads.

I'm short a couple good SDC-1, -12 or -29.

A 101 is 2# lighter and 1 1/4" narrower than an XL-12. Nifty.

 

[struggle]

The clutch is unlikely to come loose when you have a bar and chain on the saw. Without that, the momentum of the clutch is trying to loosen itself during deceleration. Couple that with the lack of a clutch cover, and bad things can happen. I did it with my McCulloch SP125. Luckily all the parts stayed in the garage.

My saw is a 102 Automatic, but close enough. Your saw has some nice potential. Thanks for sharing the vid.

It still needs some cleaning and duckbills in the caps. The oiler works so I was happy about that. I have a 20 hardnose bar for it but no chain that I know of unless I find something here that will fit it.

The handle on it is off the other saw which cosmetically is much nicer but appear to have been staright gassed as it is scored beyond bad through the port.

Good thing is I can switch out the nicer parts with having the parts saw. Need to get in wood first though to see how it does.

 

[67L36Driver]

Are they both 3 screw or 5 screw magneto backplate.
View attachment 202630

 

[Eccentric]

Finally got the recoil fixed and the fuel tank back together. Ran him this morning but can't get the carb adjusted worth poo-poo. Took it apart and someone had swapped the H and L needles. Going to pick up a kit and go through him.

Is it necessary or a good idea to pop out the welch plug? From the diagram, nothing a Gumout jet spray won't fix.

I didn't have a good 3/8 x 7 rim sprocket laying around only a .404 x 7. Mounted a Windsor 20 hardnose w .404 pitch chain.

Bad news is: The fuel tank seaps at an old weld repair in the bottom. Just enuff to make a mess over time.

Been using Wifey's 'puter as the house guests are staying in my 'puter room. They leave late tomorrow.

I usually just leave the welch plugs in Carl. Fire up the C-5 in the house. The guests will then pack much faster!

C-series saws just don't look right with 3/8" chain IMO. Glad you put .404 on it...

 

[67L36Driver]

C5 carb.(?) troubles.

Put a kit in the Tilley this morning and tried to run it. I wants to run out of gas and die at W.O.T.. Filled fuel tank to the brim, changed fuel filters and even ran it without a fuel filter. Still see lots of bubbles in the tygon tank to carb. line. Both the low and high speed jets are 1/2-3/4 turn open and react like they should. Fuel lines are good.

Ideas anyone?

Am going to pull the carb. again and have a look-see at the pump side.

The evilbay XL-800 arrived this morning. Nearly two weeks late. Seller shipped it Tuesday. I left neg. feedback.

 

[Eccentric]

Put a kit in the Tilley this morning and tried to run it. I wants to run out of gas and die at W.O.T.. Filled fuel tank to the brim, changed fuel filters and even ran it without a fuel filter. Still see lots of bubbles in the tygon tank to carb. line. Both the low and high speed jets are 1/2-3/4 turn open and react like they should. Fuel lines are good.

Ideas anyone?

Am going to pull the carb. again and have a look-see at the pump side.

The evilbay XL-800 arrived this morning. Nearly two weeks late. Seller shipped it Tuesday. I left neg. feedback.

Few things Carl.

Thing-1)Did you try running it with the fuel cap off to see if your cap has a venting issue?


Thing-2)Make sure you have the diaphragms and gaskets are in that carb in the right order. The HL is different than 'cube' carbs such as SDC's. Propper order (with the carb body upside down) is:

-Carb body (duh)

-Metering chamber gasket

-Metering diaphragm

-Metering chamber cover

-Pump GASKET (on a cube, you'd flip the body over and put the pump DIAPHRAGM here).

-Pump DIAPHRAGM

-Pump cover.

If you're like me and you brainfart after doing dozens of 'cube' carbs, you may revert to the usual 'cube' carb gasket diaphragm order. This will make the pump section of the carb not work for ####, and it will run like you describe. Did that with my McCulloch 650. Tore that carb apart about five times before I realized my mistake. The pump diaphragm needs to be the LAST thing on the 'stack' before the pump cover, as the valve holes that the pump diaphragm valve 'flaps' seal against are in that cover (and NOT in the metering chamber cover). The metering chamber cover has recesses for the valve 'flaps' to swing into when opening.

Thing-3) Make sure the fuel lines are tightly sealed on the nipples. May have to use the little wire clamps. That's inside the tank, outside the tank, and on the carb.

My bet is that you have the pump diaphragm and gasket switched. It'll run that way, but not well. My McCulloch 650 would idle great, but would fall on its face after revving for a few seconds. Had to 'nurse' it back to life for about 20 seconds with the choke before it would recover. LOTS of bubbles in the fuel line. Once I got the pump diaphragm and gasket in the right order, it ran perfect.

 

[mweba]

Who'd of known, ordering a new Echo would loosin up an old Homelite dealer. Will get pics up when I'm finished sorting

 

[mweba]

Ok, I've gotten most of it sorted.....Thank you Google!

The long and short of it, I went to the local Echo dealer to order a CS-500P and as usual we got to talking. I have purchased NOS bars from this dealer before but had no idea he was holding out on the goods. Our conversation led us upstairs were all the parts saws are. Around the corner was boxes of "junk". I contained my excitement (kindof) and made an offer. He countered, I countered, he won end of story LOL

May need some help identifying some bits over the next week.


NOS Homelite by mweba1, on Flickr


NOS Homelite by mweba1, on Flickr


NOS Homelite by mweba1, on Flickr


NOS Homelite by mweba1, on Flickr

 

[mweba]

Also, has anyone adapted a XL-400 P&C to a SXLA? Skirts need to be cut for sure but pin height looks good. Stroke the same?

 

[watsonr]

Nice haul!! Got some SXL there and I see some 9-23/9-26/900/909/990/995. Lots of good stuff....any saws? Got a couple nice cylinders there too!