ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
They weren't 925's?
What were they???
I was almost 100% I seen 925 on the recoil covers?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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They weren't 925's?
What were they???
I was almost 100% I seen 925 on the recoil covers?
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
PM sent. Still happy with the deal, no biggie.
Homelite Super XL question
I have a Super XL Automatic that has a bad module. This doesn't have points. I looked on the IPL and it gave a number A94605S. Is this number on the module somewhere? I have the saw together right now and hate to take it apart again today, just wondering if someone would know. Also, is there any other saws that use this same module? Thanks
I have a Super XL Automatic that has a bad module. This doesn't have points. I looked on the IPL and it gave a number A94605S. Is this number on the module somewhere? I have the saw together right now and hate to take it apart again today, just wondering if someone would know. Also, is there any other saws that use this same module? Thanks
more on the C5. was taking the ignition system off when i saw that the insulation on the big wire (primary wire?) to the spark plug has sucumbed to all the oil and gas it has been wearing for decades. is this the type of coil where you can remove and replace the wire or do i need a "new" coil? also, trying to figure out how to get the grommet the wires go through off.
Just replaced the high tension wire on my C5. It pulls out of the coil with a great deal of effort. Pick out any leftover insulation with a sharp instrument. Shove the new wire in with a drip of Gorilla glue in the hole. Use solid core wire!
If someone has a tip on replaceing the 90 deg. boot and clip I'm all ears. I ended up using a bare 90 deg. (think flat head Ford) terminal.
A length of pre-made solid core w/90 would have been better.
The big wire is the secondary. Sometimes you can heat them right where they go into the coil and twist them out, not saying you can on that one. Don't use a whole lot of heat though, just enough to soften the material.
Early Homelite solid state ignitions seem to be problematic/high rate of failure.
If faced with that problem, I'd just convert it to points from an earlier parts saw if the cranks have the same breaker points cam.
I have a SXL in the pipeline now and am hoping it has breaker points.
mp5n
ArboristSite Operative
The wires unscrew.
The center contact is threaded. Just unscrew the wire like you would a normal fastener. It may take a little twisting to get is started, but as soon as it loosens it'll come right out. When I install a new wire I take a very pointy awl and make a starter hole in the middle of the conductor bundle then just screw it back in. I'm not sure I'd want to use a strong glue to hold the wire in as it would be a problem if you ever had to get it back out. I just make sure to put a little silicone sealer around the wire after I install it where it enters the coil housing to prevent moisture from getting in. I've also had good luck with using replacement wire from Stihl which can be bought by the foot.
With the 90 deg boots I push the wire completely through the boot and use an awl to make a starter hole to get the contact started them a pair of pliers to drive the contact into the wire bundle. Sometimes it can be a pain to pull the wire back through the boot, but a little WD-40 and a hair dryer to heat (soften) the boot works wonders.
Best of luck and have a great New Year.
The center contact is threaded. Just unscrew the wire like you would a normal fastener. It may take a little twisting to get is started, but as soon as it loosens it'll come right out. When I install a new wire I take a very pointy awl and make a starter hole in the middle of the conductor bundle then just screw it back in. I'm not sure I'd want to use a strong glue to hold the wire in as it would be a problem if you ever had to get it back out. I just make sure to put a little silicone sealer around the wire after I install it where it enters the coil housing to prevent moisture from getting in. I've also had good luck with using replacement wire from Stihl which can be bought by the foot.
With the 90 deg boots I push the wire completely through the boot and use an awl to make a starter hole to get the contact started them a pair of pliers to drive the contact into the wire bundle. Sometimes it can be a pain to pull the wire back through the boot, but a little WD-40 and a hair dryer to heat (soften) the boot works wonders.
Best of luck and have a great New Year.
You can generally tell if it's later model because the later model Super XL has padded top bar and hand guard. Of course these can be retro-fitted.
You can get the wire in the boot easier if you use a little spray silicone.
Yup, I tried that, just pulled the contact thingy off the end getting it to make the corner.
I'll hunt up a newer (softer rubber) boot for the next try.
mp5n: I used the glue because the old one was glued and screwed.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
tried to rep ya... silicone is the way to go with any rubber to 'anything' issues. that's what it is marketed for.
I use the amsoil stuff - a little more expensive but a lot less noxious. I haven't found another brand that I can easily get that is made similarly --- I bought it when I was rebuilding my wife's kitchenaid mixer due to the food-industry friendly aspect. been using it exclusively ever since. AMSOIL Silicone Spray, about $7, but cheaper from a local dealer (usually).
The stuff from the auto store works fine, but smells and seems to have some extra goodies in the can.
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8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Any number of rubber boots would work, some are easier before the end is crimped, some after. A mower shop should have something to make work, hate to get zapped and drop the thing mid rev.
thanks for the tips guys. now i shall go forth and conquer (hopefully)
The only thing wrong with silicone is I can't keep it around...wife is always using it on the garage door so the opener will work better.
what part of the garage door you use it on?
I use bar oil on the counterbalance ropes.
does that quieten it down?
what part does your wife use the silicon on?
We use it on the rollers and the little gear track that goes along the top and everywhere there's a joint that moves. I've got the door set on the light setting so our cat won't get caught under the door when it closes. The directions say not to use anything but silicone spray on it because oil thickens up in winter.
