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okay guys. trying to rebuild an old c5. really enjoying digging into this saw. except for trying to get the fuel fitting out of the tank. i've got it soaking in aerokroil right now so will try again tomorrow. hoping it comes off cause i've got to replace the in-tank fuel line.
now, to my problems.
- where can i find an in-tank fuel line.
- what size filter works good on this saw.
- what bar pattern fits this saw
- how hard is it to convert to 3/8's (most of my other saws use 3/8"s)
- is it a good or bad idea to convert to 3/8's
- also need to make a spanner wrench to get the clutch off so i can replace to seals; anyone got any ideas on how to make one?
thanks for any input.
jerry
 
it was just as fast as the 125s i ran against it, those video's are posted in the Mac thread. I ran three saws and all were within a couple seconds of each other, but ...yes, this thing runs good. Putting some square chain on it to see what happens.
 
A great example of american muscle! Wow that thing pulls chips.
 
jerrycmorrow said:
okay guys. trying to rebuild an old c5. really enjoying digging into this saw. except for trying to get the fuel fitting out of the tank. i've got it soaking in aerokroil right now so will try again tomorrow. hoping it comes off cause i've got to replace the in-tank fuel line.
now, to my problems.
- where can i find an in-tank fuel line.
- what size filter works good on this saw.
- what bar pattern fits this saw
- how hard is it to convert to 3/8's (most of my other saws use 3/8"s)
- is it a good or bad idea to convert to 3/8's
- also need to make a spanner wrench to get the clutch off so i can replace to seals; anyone got any ideas on how to make one?
thanks for any input.
jerry
Click to expand...

I was told not to remove the fitting, just take the tank apart, which I did. I just used regular fuel line, the yellow stuff. Use a filter that fits on the line snugly. I didn't convert mine to 3/8. I think you can still get sprockets in 3/8 for that saw along with bar and chain.
 
+1 on not removing the tank fitting. You have steel taper pipe threads screwed into mag. and set there for 40+ years. You'll just round it off.

My C5 has a rim drive/drum on it and I run .404 on a 20" hard nose. It's a bit much but the engine is down on compression. Rings are in its' future.
 
jerrycmorrow said:
okay guys. trying to rebuild an old c5. really enjoying digging into this saw. except for trying to get the fuel fitting out of the tank. i've got it soaking in aerokroil right now so will try again tomorrow. hoping it comes off cause i've got to replace the in-tank fuel line.
now, to my problems.
- where can i find an in-tank fuel line.
- what size filter works good on this saw.
- what bar pattern fits this saw
- how hard is it to convert to 3/8's (most of my other saws use 3/8"s)
- is it a good or bad idea to convert to 3/8's
- also need to make a spanner wrench to get the clutch off so i can replace to seals; anyone got any ideas on how to make one?
thanks for any input.
jerry
Click to expand...

Bar pattern is Oregon F014. Cannon H. Can't recall the GB or Windsor numbers. Go to Acres site and click 'bar mount patterns". Click "16" for the Acres listing of this pattern. These are no longer made. You can find used and NOS bars on feebay. Same pattern as what's used on a 1050, Zip, Wiz, and many other large Homelites. NOT the same as an XL mount (D196) bar as used on an XL12, SXL925, or 750.
 
Yeah, they (them bars) can be hard to find. :laugh::laugh:

With a hard nose, it wouldn't matter what pitch you ran, just run the same gauge.

I spent an hour and a half trying to remove a clutch on a 925; finally came easily after driving in roll pins where the spanner I don't have goes, then installing another roll pin over those, and then I used an old bar with the roll pins acting as bar studs.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I was told not to remove the fitting, just take the tank apart, which I did...
Click to expand...

67L36Driver said:
+1 on not removing the tank fitting. You have steel taper pipe threads screwed into mag. and set there for 40+ years. You'll just round it off.
Click to expand...

i was hoping to not take tank apart but i totally understand. already done some rounding. just seems there was a member on here recently who's having trouble getting his tank to seal.
the manual i have (courtesy of an AS member) states that the gasket between the fuel tank and cover is no longer used. they specify a homelite cement (part no. 22788) which was superseded by UP07234 which is no longer available and not in stock.
so, what would be a good gasket sealer/cement to use.
taking it apart will certainly help in cleaning to crap out of the tank.
 
Last edited:
jerrycmorrow said:
i was hoping to not take tank apart but i totally understand. already done some rounding. just seems there was a member on here recently who's having trouble getting his tank to seal.
the manual i have (courtesy of an AS member) states that the gasket between the fuel tank and cover is no longer used. they specify a homelite cement (part no. 22788) which was superseded by UP07234 which is no longer available and not in stock.
so, what would be a good gasket sealer/cement to use.
taking it apart will certainly help in cleaning to crap out of the tank.
Click to expand...

I didn't have any trouble getting the tank to seal, just make sure the sealing surface is clean and flat, no screwdriver gouges. If I remember correctly I just used motoseal on it. It's possible I used a gasket, it's been quite a while but it hasn't leaked a drop since. I drained the tank and ran the fuel out of the carb because it probably won't see much use for awhile.
 
8433jeff said:
Yeah, they (them bars) can be hard to find. :laugh::laugh:

With a hard nose, it wouldn't matter what pitch you ran, just run the same gauge.

I spent an hour and a half trying to remove a clutch on a 925; finally came easily after driving in roll pins where the spanner I don't have goes, then installing another roll pin over those, and then I used an old bar with the roll pins acting as bar studs.
Click to expand...

Just curious.......how tight of a fit are the roll pins and are those thru holes you are putting them in??
 
okay, finally got the clutch off of the C5. i finally made a wrench out of some scrap 1x1 angle with a slot for the crank. drilled holes and used bolts for the pins. i soaked it with some aerokroil overnight and after tapping at it so as not the break it i finally got pissed and took my 3# hammer after it. it came off. question is now, how tight do i tighten it when replacing. thanks for all the help guys. onward and upward.

Next question, does anyone see any reason i can't not use a base gasket when reinstalling p&c?
 
Last edited:
XPLRN said:
Just curious.......how tight of a fit are the roll pins and are those thru holes you are putting them in??
Click to expand...

Nice fit, no, they are not through holes, took a bit of wiggling and turning with an alligator pliers to remove them. I used shorter ones on the outside of the first ones to allow such removal, not my first rodeo, you see.

Though my side cover has a hole they may have spun in.

Waste of time, I guess, no air filter yet and no cover for it, not much spark, and need still need a fuel line. Will wait for extra funds to become available.
 
jerrycmorrow said:
okay, finally got the clutch off of the C5. i finally made a wrench out of some scrap 1x1 angle with a slot for the crank. drilled holes and used bolts for the pins. i soaked it with some aerokroil overnight and after tapping at it so as not the break it i finally got pissed and took my 3# hammer after it. it came off. question is now, how tight do i tighten it when replacing. thanks for all the help guys. onward and upward.

Next question, does anyone see any reason i can't not use a base gasket when reinstalling p&c?
Click to expand...

If its backwards thread Jerry I never tighten them tight, but never run them without a chain and cover either.
 
8433jeff said:
Yeah, they (them bars) can be hard to find. :laugh::laugh:

With a hard nose, it wouldn't matter what pitch you ran, just run the same gauge.

I spent an hour and a half trying to remove a clutch on a 925; finally came easily after driving in roll pins where the spanner I don't have goes, then installing another roll pin over those, and then I used an old bar with the roll pins acting as bar studs.
Click to expand...

Hmm... 925? that sounds familiar :hmm3grin2orange:
 

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