Homelite Chainsaws

[XPLRN]

1194 Threebond

I've seen Hylomar used for sealing applications where there's oil and water, but haven't seen it used around gasoline. ThreeBond 1194 is the product I use. It's also sold as Hondabond-4, Suzukibond-4, Yamabond-4, and Kawasakibond-4. Same stuff, but packaged for the motorcycle manufacturers. HondaBond-4 even has "1194" in it's Honda part number. It's a synthetic rubber rather than an RTV silicon. You can use an OEM gasket like JP does too. I'd still put a really thin 'skim' of sealer on the gasket to hold it in place as you're fitting the cover. Don't overtighten the screws either.



There's not really enough room to get an impact driver in there to turn some of those screws. They're really small and fragile, so they probably would just break anyways. Thin little round head slotted sheet metal screws. Not the best thing for the purpose. SS socket head machine screws would be better fasteners for the job. The yellow saws with a similar tank design have a much more robust gasket, and have real machine screws that are also larger and more robust. With the Homelite tank screws, people either seem to be lucky and have no trouble removing all of them......................or unlucky and break 2 or three.

To my utter amazement, the tank fitting on that 1050 actually unscrewed without dificulty. This is the first C/XP series tank that I've had that happen with. I was glad, as somebody had resealed that tank somewhat recently and it was holding. Didn't wanna mess with the screws and gasket surface if I didn't have to. I marked the fitting with a sharpie on the 'bottom' (as it was seated in the tank) before removal, and made sure the tygon I installed was oriented so its natural 'curl' went in the direction of the mark on the fitting so it would lay right when installed in the tank.

Thanks sooo much for the excellent info sharing..........I'll check at the local motorcycle shops if I can't find the 1194 at the auto parts stores.

I was very lucky in that all my screws came out just fine. Some day I hope to have a yellow machine of similar sizing for comparison of the tank configuration, mounting hardware and gasket setup. For now I'm just very thankful and happy to have the 1050 I've got. Now I just need to buy a carb kit for it, do the clean-up of the tank/cover, install the new fuel line and see if I can get the beast to run as well as it did 25+ years ago!! I've kinda developed a bond with this machine as I've now got a permanent marking from it on my left knee!!:check:

 

[RandyMac]

Did someone mention a yellow saw?

 

[XPLRN]

Is that black stuff all melted fuel line? If so, it should come right off with carb cleaner. I have done several fuel tanks now, and I buy a gasket on Ebay. Never had one leak. Also, I haven't had a problem with the little screws - they are sheet metal screws, and seem to be somewhat self-tapping. Use tygon fuel line, and put it in before closing up the tank, as it is difficult to do after.

Here is the gasket:

HOMELITE CHAINSAW 1050 200 2100 C-51 C-71 TANK GASKET | eBay

Thanks 'Ambull' for your link on the gasket. I've got one stashed away already and hope now that I've got a handle on what others are using for a correct sealer I'll be getting it all back together after the cleaning/new fuel line and filter!!

I don't think the black goo is melted fuel line due to how much and how consistently it's spread over the tank area. Probably just sealer as was mentioned by Eccentric earlier......I just ended up with the black vs. the red stuff!

I'm hoping to duplicate your gas tank gasket replacement(s) with having NO leaks!!

 

[XPLRN]

Did someone mention a yellow saw?

SAWEEET!!

Yellow is THE first chainsaw color I remember as a child.........one of my earliest memories is of my dad having what I've now determined was a 35 sitting in the "mudroom" staying warm over night so it would start the next day in the middle of the cold weather. :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Eccentric]

Did someone mention a yellow saw?

You broke the rules sir. We had posts in the thread (including pics) MUCH less than 24 hours before your McPic.:msp_thumbdn:

The 1050 is a runner but is in need of a crankcase swap. The lower left handlebar mount is broken away (already posted a pic of that) and yesterday I discovered that some ham fisted yahoo had stripped out one of the two intake manifold bolt holes. Those bolts run through the manifold, carb box, insulator, and a few gaskets..............then thread into the crankcase. I started to unbolt the manifold so I could tip it up enough to propperly tighten that dang lower left carb screw..............and the left side manifold bolt came completely free after about 1/8" turn. Came up with mag thread bits on it, and drops all the way down when pushed back in the hole. I'll swap the crankcase from my parts XP1020...........but that's a PITA......:bang:

Other than that it's a good strong runner now. Starts, revs idles, and oils fine.

 

[paccity]

You broke the rules sir. We had posts in the thread (including pics) MUCH less than 24 hours before your McPic.:msp_thumbdn:

The 1050 is a runner but is in need of a crankcase swap. The lower left handlebar mount is broken away (already posted a pic of that) and yesterday I discovered that some ham fisted yahoo had stripped out one of the two intake manifold bolt holes. Those bolts run through the manifold, carb box, insulator, and a few gaskets..............then thread into the crankcase. I started to unbolt the manifold so I could tip it up enough to propperly tighten that dang lower left carb screw..............and the left side manifold bolt came completely free after about 1/8" turn. Came up with mag thread bits on it, and drops all the way down when pushed back in the hole. I'll swap the crankcase from my parts XP1020...........but that's a PITA......:bang:

Other than that it's a good strong runner now. Starts, revs idles, and oils fine.

yea but he is the emperor.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[RandyMac]

yea but he is the emperor.:hmm3grin2orange:

That I am.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Think I'll pass on that 4-20 deal I mentioned, but happened to run across this one...

???

​

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

All I can see in another lousy pic is what looks like a partial "1" on the recoil side decal.

So what is this saw and should I go get it -- just because?

Seriously, is it a 1050, 1130, maybe a 2000? Homies are all new to me 'cept the little guys and I have no clue.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Of course you should go get it! Looks like a 6 cube XP series, couldn't tell ya which one from the pic. I went through the same thing with my XP, no serial tag on it, looks like that one is there, on the AF housing.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Of course you should go get it! Looks like a 6 cube XP series, couldn't tell ya which one from the pic. I went through the same thing with my XP, no serial tag on it, looks like that one is missing as well, it should be on the back of the recol cover.

Just waiting for a call-back and I'm on my way -- in a hurry!

 

[Steve NW WI]

Poge, I had to edit my post above, I was wrong on the SN tag location, have another look, it's correct now.

Here's my muffler donor saw, along with a few other pieces, I was suprised when I pulled the AF cover off to find this:

Mint condition - near new air filter! Also, the HL141 looks to have a recent rebuild on it, and not much use. I also noticed the rubber gasket under the AF, that my XP is missing.

This is the muffler that's going on, after the muff bolts on the XP soak for a while in PB Blaster, they were'nt coming peacefully, and I didn't want broken studs in the block. Besides, it's too blasted hot out there to be working on stuff, and I don't have room on the basement bench.

I'm sure this question has been answered a bunch of times, but where can I find a good duckbill for the fuel cap? I went through 4 caps today and didn't find one that didn't leak when tipped on it's side.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Nice surprise! Cool.

Just hoping I can land the one in the pic I posted. Seems like everyone here has gone silent about what it is, though. Wonder what they're all doin'?

:msp_tongue:

 

[Mastermind]

I've yet to see a 6 cube horizontal Homelite around here.

 

[67L36Driver]

You broke the rules sir. We had posts in the thread (including pics) MUCH less than 24 hours before your McPic.:msp_thumbdn:

I think we should go to a 72 hour rule. Its too hot here in the midwest to work on chainsaws.

I have many yellow Non-Mac saw pictures I can post on the Mac thread.:msp_ohmy:

Aaron: I have a #12-24 Helicoil repair kit if you want to borrow it. Left over from my Holly carb. fuel bowl fights with the vet.


Fellow sellin' Homie duckbills in quantitys of 5 & 10 on the evilbay. 10 PACK CHAINSAW DUCK BILL CHECK VALVE HOMELITE XL, XL 2, Super 2 69451 UP06862 | eBay

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I've yet to see a 6 cube horizontal Homelite around here.

Good chance you'll see the one in the pic to do a "once over twice" on it if all goes according to plan tomorrow morning.

Fingers crossed, but the gal said she'd hold it for me.

:msp_unsure:

 

[sefh3]

So now I'm working on a XL12 (blue and white). What is the correct carb for this?

 

[psuiewalsh]

workbench

These are now tested. Cut up some chunks and made some noodles.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Fellow sellin' Homie duckbills in quantitys of 5 & 10 on the evilbay. 10 PACK CHAINSAW DUCK BILL CHECK VALVE HOMELITE XL, XL 2, Super 2 69451 UP06862 | eBay

Thanks for the link. Will these work on the C/XP saws? My C5 IPL shows a 56865 P/N for the duckbill.

 

[Eccentric]

All I can see in another lousy pic is what looks like a partial "1" on the recoil side decal.

So what is this saw and should I go get it -- just because?

Seriously, is it a 1050, 1130, maybe a 2000? Homies are all new to me 'cept the little guys and I have no clue.

Nice surprise! Cool.

Just hoping I can land the one in the pic I posted. Seems like everyone here has gone silent about what it is, though. Wonder what they're all doin'?

:msp_tongue:

Been out with the 4 year old all day. Dead tired. That saw looks like a 1050 to me. Not a 2000 or 2100, and certainly not an 1130 gear drive. Paint scheme and starter cover look just like what's on the 1050 in my possession. The AF cover looks to have "1050 Automatic" on the back too.

I think we should go to a 72 hour rule. Its too hot here in the midwest to work on chainsaws.

I have many yellow Non-Mac saw pictures I can post on the Mac thread.:msp_ohmy:

Aaron: I have a #12-24 Helicoil repair kit if you want to borrow it. Left over from my Holly carb. fuel bowl fights with the vet.


Fellow sellin' Homie duckbills in quantitys of 5 & 10 on the evilbay. 10 PACK CHAINSAW DUCK BILL CHECK VALVE HOMELITE XL, XL 2, Super 2 69451 UP06862 | eBay

Carl I bought a 10-pack bag of duckbills from that very seller. Everything was fine with the deal, and I've already gone through half the bag (with many more saws to refit). Will be ordering another 10-bag of 69451's soon along with a 10-bag of Poulan 530026119's.

Thanks for the Helicoil offer. The stripped manifold bolt hole on the 1050 is 1/4-20, and the stripped lower handlebar bolt hole on the 750 I'm working on is 10-24.

These are now tested. Cut up some chunks and made some noodles.

Nice looking S E-Z and 360 Keith!

Thanks for the link. Will these work on the C/XP saws? My C5 IPL shows a 56865 P/N for the duckbill.

Most of the C-series as well as the early XP series saws used caps with valves that are unfortunately not compatible with the little 69451's. There were several styles of cap vents used. There's the one with the 'dime sized' flat rubber slit valve (which is in a steel frame that glues into the cap underside). I believe that's the #56865 valve.

The caps that DO take the 69451 duckbills are the one with the little sintered bronze 'filter' pressed into the underside of the cap. Grab that 'filter' with pliers and twist/pull it out. There will be the melted remains of a duckbill in the cap hole and the 'filter'. Clean all that out, drop a new 69451 into the 'filter', and press it in place. Make SURE you've gotten all of the dead melted former duckbill goo out of the cap or it won't breath however. Had that happen with the 1050 I just worked on. It would starve and die within less than 30 seconds of the cap being tightened. This was AFTER I'd replaced the duckbill. pulled the cap back apart and cleaned the rest of the goo out. Works now.


There's another cap that takes the 69451 duckbill..............but I haven't been able to take one apart to replace the valve. It has a brass tube in the same location as the 'filter' in the other caps. Damn things won't come out however. Tried it with two sepperate caps so far. I can SEE the melted remains of a duckbill in there, but the damn tubes have resisted all efforts to twist them out. I'm missing something I'm sure...



Here's a completed ebay listing for one of the C/XP caps that DO for sure take the 69451 duckbill.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc