Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

I've seen several C/XP series saws with sealer similar to that inside the tanks. Sometimes it's black, sometimes it's red. The saw I pictured above had red sealer inside. These saws have a thin, wimpy tank cover gasket and fragile little tank cover screws. The sealer is an effort to deal with leaks. My C-5 weeps, and I've been putting off fixing it as those damn screws have a tendancy to bust of flush with the casting upon removal.

The busted case on the saw I was working on was probably due to some force being exerted on the saw (such as it being ran over by a tractor). The handlebar has some significant 'spring' to it at the lower mounts. In order to get the bolts in, I needed to pull them apart about 2" or so. The saw probably got rolled onto its side as it was being ran over. The cracked muffler cover and a few other battle scars bear my theory out. These saws are just so damn stout that it was able to survive without more damage. A more fragile saw (such as a Homelite 650/750) probably would have been all crunched up. If I work something out with Randy and this saw stays with me, I'll probably replace the crankcase at some point. Since the saw is a good useable runner as is, this repair is low priority for me. Gotta strip it all the way down to the crankshaft when doing that swap....

 

[Mastermind]

On removing that tank coating......

As Aaron noted, the screws can be a small (pun intended) nightmare. We did a 360pro a couple of years ago and found the best way to get the screws out was the heat the area the threads go into up with a torch. Of course the risk of damaging the paint VS snapping off the screws could be considered a tossup.

We removed all the coating and used ThreeBond as a gasket sealer....and hell of a job that is though.




Aaron.... That C-52 is a saw I sold before the Homelite Mag CAD set in on me.

 

[RandyMac]

On removing that tank coating......

As Aaron noted, the screws can be a small (pun intended) nightmare. We did a 360pro a couple of years ago and found the best way to get the screws out was the heat the area the threads go into up with a torch. Of course the risk of damaging the paint VS snapping off the screws could be considered a tossup.

We removed all the coating and used ThreeBond as a gasket sealer....and hell of a job that is though.




Aaron.... That C-52 is a saw I sold before the Homelite Mag CAD set in on me.

Who knew you have some sense?

 

[Eccentric]

Who knew you have some sense?

He has come to the land of old Homelites.........so there must be some sense in that pistol packin' monkey knoggin.

 

[Eccentric]

On removing that tank coating......


As Aaron noted, the screws can be a small (pun intended) nightmare. We did a 360pro a couple of years ago and found the best way to get the screws out was the heat the area the threads go into up with a torch. Of course the risk of damaging the paint VS snapping off the screws could be considered a tossup.

We removed all the coating and used ThreeBond as a gasket sealer....and hell of a job that is though.




Aaron.... That C-52 is a saw I sold before the Homelite Mag CAD set in on me.

You need another C-Series then. It's the law. I'm down to one complete C-5 now (Jeffus has my other one), so I can't help you there. They're easy to find however.

I'm experimenting with heating the screws with a powerful soldering iron to free them up without distorting the original paint on my cherry (but leaking) C-5. Heat/spray with PB Blaster cycles may be the ticket.

 

[Mastermind]

You need another C-Series then. It's the law. I'm down to one complete C-5 now (Jeffus has my other one), so I can't help you there. They're easy to find however.

I'm experimenting with heating the screws with a powerful soldering iron to free them up without distorting the original paint on my cherry (but leaking) C-5. Heat/spray with PB Blaster cycles may be the ticket.

On the 360 the sealer that they used to seal the tank halves was what "locked" the screw threads. On the C-series is there any sealer on the threads?

 

[Eccentric]

On the 360 the sealer that they used to seal the tank halves was what "locked" the screw threads. On the C-series is there any sealer on the threads?

Not that I've seen. There's often galvanic corrosion between the mag and the tiny screws. I'll probably retap the holes for larger, SS cap head screws the next time I tackle one of these. I don't care if it'd look different than stock.

 

[67L36Driver]

Look att that homie in back

And, the John Deere/Remy in front.

SL-9?

 

[XPLRN]

I've seen several C/XP series saws with sealer similar to that inside the tanks. Sometimes it's black, sometimes it's red. The saw I pictured above had red sealer inside. These saws have a thin, wimpy tank cover gasket and fragile little tank cover screws. The sealer is an effort to deal with leaks. My C-5 weeps, and I've been putting off fixing it as those damn screws have a tendancy to bust of flush with the casting upon removal.

The busted case on the saw I was working on was probably due to some force being exerted on the saw (such as it being ran over by a tractor). The handlebar has some significant 'spring' to it at the lower mounts. In order to get the bolts in, I needed to pull them apart about 2" or so. The saw probably got rolled onto its side as it was being ran over. The cracked muffler cover and a few other battle scars bear my theory out. These saws are just so damn stout that it was able to survive without more damage. A more fragile saw (such as a Homelite 650/750) probably would have been all crunched up. If I work something out with Randy and this saw stays with me, I'll probably replace the crankcase at some point. Since the saw is a good useable runner as is, this repair is low priority for me. Gotta strip it all the way down to the crankshaft when doing that swap....

Thanks for sharing about the different colors of sealer.........I'm presuming that sealer, regardless of color, is something folks have done after the gasket starts leaking or !???

Bummer about the handlebar on the saw but your right that a more fragile saw would have been all crunched up!! I've got a Poulan 5200 that has a similarly skewed handlebar that I'll get to deal with in the future.....hoping I can "re-bend" it back to it original configuration.

Being a good useable runner at the present is a plus........a bit of work to strip down to the crankcase to do the swap ouit.

 

[XPLRN]

Not looking forward to the cleaning........

On removing that tank coating......

As Aaron noted, the screws can be a small (pun intended) nightmare. We did a 360pro a couple of years ago and found the best way to get the screws out was the heat the area the threads go into up with a torch. Of course the risk of damaging the paint VS snapping off the screws could be considered a tossup.

We removed all the coating and used ThreeBond as a gasket sealer....and hell of a job that is though.

Yes, I'm not looking forward to that clean up.......started on the cover part before I stashed it away in a plastic tote for a future project. It appeared by the paint on the screws that I was the first person to ever remove those screws or the cover. I had been forewarned by rms61moparman about how they could be a pain to remove and to use a correct engaging screwdriver tip. Fortunately all of them came out just fine........I was wondering about what to use on the threads upon re-assembly!??


Sooo what is "Threebond"!?? Seems that there is quite a number of Threebond products; http://www.threebond.com/aftermarket.htm

Is there a particular product name/number associated with the stuff you use and how does it set up?? Is it like silicone or ??? IF I ever have to remove the gas tank cover again how will the "Threebond" be for clean up??

How does the "Threebond" compare to this stuff;

http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html

Just trying to figure out what is the preferred sealer from folks that have already "been there, done that" with jobs like sealing up the large gas tank cover gasket on the Hommie 1050.

 

[67L36Driver]

On most machine threaded fasteners and especially steel run into alum. or mag. I use Neverseize.


Still working on a can of it I inherited from my dad.

 

[Ambull]

Yes, I'm not looking forward to that clean up.......started on the cover part before I stashed it away in a plastic tote for a future project. It appeared by the paint on the screws that I was the first person to ever remove those screws or the cover. I had been forewarned by rms61moparman about how they could be a pain to remove and to use a correct engaging screwdriver tip. Fortunately all of them came out just fine........I was wondering about what to use on the threads upon re-assembly!??


Sooo what is "Threebond"!?? Seems that there is quite a number of Threebond products; http://www.threebond.com/aftermarket.htm

Is there a particular product name/number associated with the stuff you use and how does it set up?? Is it like silicone or ??? IF I ever have to remove the gas tank cover again how will the "Threebond" be for clean up??

How does the "Threebond" compare to this stuff;
Hylomar Sealant

Just trying to figure out what is the preferred sealer from folks that have already "been there, done that" with jobs like sealing up the large gas tank cover gasket on the Hommie 1050.

Is that black stuff all melted fuel line? If so, it should come right off with carb cleaner. I have done several fuel tanks now, and I buy a gasket on Ebay. Never had one leak. Also, I haven't had a problem with the little screws - they are sheet metal screws, and seem to be somewhat self-tapping. Use tygon fuel line, and put it in before closing up the tank, as it is difficult to do after.

Here is the gasket:

HOMELITE CHAINSAW 1050 200 2100 C-51 C-71 TANK GASKET | eBay

 

[8433jeff]

You need another C-Series then. It's the law. I'm down to one complete C-5 now (Jeffus has my other one), so I can't help you there. They're easy to find however.

I'm experimenting with heating the screws with a powerful soldering iron to free them up without distorting the original paint on my cherry (but leaking) C-5. Heat/spray with PB Blaster cycles may be the ticket.

My saw (Aandy) is quite happy to be out of Kali and not going back. Its looking for others it may have cut or been stored with, and seems a bit impatient.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

View attachment 243573
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Mmm its all blue an stuff!

 

[little possum]

Been a while since I have messed with any Homelites, well chainsaws in general. But can you guys get a impact driver onto the screws?

They work wonders, especially after some soakings in lubricant/pb whatever.

 

[Eccentric]

Yes, I'm not looking forward to that clean up.......started on the cover part before I stashed it away in a plastic tote for a future project. It appeared by the paint on the screws that I was the first person to ever remove those screws or the cover. I had been forewarned by rms61moparman about how they could be a pain to remove and to use a correct engaging screwdriver tip. Fortunately all of them came out just fine........I was wondering about what to use on the threads upon re-assembly!??


Sooo what is "Threebond"!?? Seems that there is quite a number of Threebond products; http://www.threebond.com/aftermarket.htm

Is there a particular product name/number associated with the stuff you use and how does it set up?? Is it like silicone or ??? IF I ever have to remove the gas tank cover again how will the "Threebond" be for clean up??

How does the "Threebond" compare to this stuff;
Hylomar Sealant

Just trying to figure out what is the preferred sealer from folks that have already "been there, done that" with jobs like sealing up the large gas tank cover gasket on the Hommie 1050.

I've seen Hylomar used for sealing applications where there's oil and water, but haven't seen it used around gasoline. ThreeBond 1194 is the product I use. It's also sold as Hondabond-4, Suzukibond-4, Yamabond-4, and Kawasakibond-4. Same stuff, but packaged for the motorcycle manufacturers. HondaBond-4 even has "1194" in it's Honda part number. It's a synthetic rubber rather than an RTV silicon. You can use an OEM gasket like JP does too. I'd still put a really thin 'skim' of sealer on the gasket to hold it in place as you're fitting the cover. Don't overtighten the screws either.

Been a while since I have messed with any Homelites, well chainsaws in general. But can you guys get a impact driver onto the screws?

They work wonders, especially after some soakings in lubricant/pb whatever.

There's not really enough room to get an impact driver in there to turn some of those screws. They're really small and fragile, so they probably would just break anyways. Thin little round head slotted sheet metal screws. Not the best thing for the purpose. SS socket head machine screws would be better fasteners for the job. The yellow saws with a similar tank design have a much more robust gasket, and have real machine screws that are also larger and more robust. With the Homelite tank screws, people either seem to be lucky and have no trouble removing all of them......................or unlucky and break 2 or three.

To my utter amazement, the tank fitting on that 1050 actually unscrewed without dificulty. This is the first C/XP series tank that I've had that happen with. I was glad, as somebody had resealed that tank somewhat recently and it was holding. Didn't wanna mess with the screws and gasket surface if I didn't have to. I marked the fitting with a sharpie on the 'bottom' (as it was seated in the tank) before removal, and made sure the tygon I installed was oriented so its natural 'curl' went in the direction of the mark on the fitting so it would lay right when installed in the tank.

 

[Steve NW WI]

This is the old Homey that followed me home today. Not sure yet if it's a 1000 or 1020, not an auto oiler.

...blah blah...

It looks good enough that I'm gonna dump a little mix in tomorrow just to see if it'll run, and right now I wouldn't bet against it.

I'm still not sure if it's a 1000 or -20, but I do know it's a RUNNER! I dumped the last of my saw gas in it this morning, and it fired and ran in about 10 pulls. I put it in 20" of pine, set the dawgs and yanked on the handle, and all it did was keep going!

I ran outta gas playing, I did need to twist on the carb settings a bit, it was a little lean for my taste and idled too high. I've got it pretty close now (I think, you guys can judge the video tomorrow).

I'll get some gas for it tomorrow, yank the rusted hulk of a muffler off and replace it, and get a vid for you guys.

2 choices on the muffler, I have a C-5 stack muffler, or the same muffler that's on it, only in better shape on a C-91 project in the shed. Was the stack an option on the 1000 series or just the big cans? It's farkin loud right now, but I don't get too worried about loud on the old saws.

For those about to ask, no it isn't for sale. If you want to run it, you're more than welcome. Either stop by here, or come to the NE WI GTG in August, MN GTG in Sept, or if I can at all swing it, the IA GTG whenever it is this fall.

Once cash reserves rebuild from my fishing trip next week, I'll be looking for a longer (36" or so) bar for this old gal. I think everything else I need can be covered by my C5 leftovers or off one of the 3 C series project saws I have. Well, except for a better looking full wrap, but this one works, and I'm cool with battle scars on old saws like this one.

 

[Eccentric]

I'm still not sure if it's a 1000 or -20, but I do know it's a RUNNER! I dumped the last of my saw gas in it this morning, and it fired and ran in about 10 pulls. I put it in 20" of pine, set the dawgs and yanked on the handle, and all it did was keep going!

I ran outta gas playing, I did need to twist on the carb settings a bit, it was a little lean for my taste and idled too high. I've got it pretty close now (I think, you guys can judge the video tomorrow).

I'll get some gas for it tomorrow, yank the rusted hulk of a muffler off and replace it, and get a vid for you guys.

2 choices on the muffler, I have a C-5 stack muffler, or the same muffler that's on it, only in better shape on a C-91 project in the shed. Was the stack an option on the 1000 series or just the big cans? It's farkin loud right now, but I don't get too worried about loud on the old saws.

For those about to ask, no it isn't for sale. If you want to run it, you're more than welcome. Either stop by here, or come to the NE WI GTG in August, MN GTG in Sept, or if I can at all swing it, the IA GTG whenever it is this fall.

Once cash reserves rebuild from my fishing trip next week, I'll be looking for a longer (36" or so) bar for this old gal. I think everything else I need can be covered by my C5 leftovers or off one of the 3 C series project saws I have. Well, except for a better looking full wrap, but this one works, and I'm cool with battle scars on old saws like this one.

Good job Steve. I don't believe the stacks were ever put on the XP1000/1020 saws. Just the cans. Take the can from the C-91 and put it on this saw..........and put the stack on the C-91.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Newbie to a 4-20

Posted this in the main forum w/o generating much traffic and it was suggested that I head over here for obvious reasons -- which I should have done in the first place.

So anyway.....,

Is there any love for these old school relics out there? (Some searching seems to indicate parts can still be had?)

A co-worker has a real nice one (relatively speaking) he wants to trade me for something a bit more...., well...., modern?

I need it like another hole in the head and have no idea what it may be worth 'cept for the "ugly factor" being right up there on the coolness meter for me! It's complete with tons of compression and he says it'll pop but has nasty old gas in it at present. (My garage now smells like varnish after it sitting here.) Bar looks to be a 20" with 1/2" pitch chain.

What should I know about this thing besides it being real heavy, real loud, real slow, and real old?

TIA for any advice or info on this thing.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Posted this in the main forum w/o generating much traffic and it was suggested that I head over here for obvious reasons -- which I should have done in the first place.

So anyway.....,

Is there any love for these old school relics out there? (Some searching seems to indicate parts can still be had?)

A co-worker has a real nice one (relatively speaking) he wants to trade me for something a bit more...., well...., modern?

I need it like another hole in the head and have no idea what it may be worth 'cept for the "ugly factor" being right up there on the coolness meter for me! It's complete with tons of compression and he says it'll pop but has nasty old gas in it at present. (My garage now smells like varnish after it sitting here.) Bar looks to be a 20" with 1/2" pitch chain.

What should I know about this thing besides it being real heavy, real loud, real slow, and real old?

TIA for any advice or info on this thing.

I've been watching the ebay ads and I don't think the old saws sell for very much. I don't think I'd trade a newer saw for one unless you want to keep it for the 'cool' factor. Once in a while someone comes along wanting one for a collection but most collectors want one for cheap too. I've got two old Macs and three old Homelites and they just sit there...

Also, I guess it also depends on what kind of saw he wants to trade for.