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ok, thanks for lookin, is that p/n for my coil or points coil? crank case cover has bosses for points [plate?] but not drilled/tapped. tia. pete.

Points coil.

I don't have an IPL for a XL-130 so don't know what that one would be.

I have both three and five screw 'magneto backplates' on hand. So, if you want to mount breaker points, just let me know.

Your best bet is the points coil with an Atom module.
 
I tinkered with the old 600D some more earlier this week. Found it had weak spark. Cleaned and re gapped the points, not much stronger. Spark plug is good, may be old but still sparks fine on another saw's points ignition system. Any ideas as to what I should clean or test next?
 
I tinkered with the old 600D some more earlier this week. Found it had weak spark. Cleaned and re gapped the points, not much stronger. Spark plug is good, may be old but still sparks fine on another saw's points ignition system. Any ideas as to what I should clean or test next?

Make sure the condensor is well grounded to the saw (no corrosion at contact areas). Check the condensor and points wire for chafing of the insulation and good contact at attachment points. Make sure the kill switch isn't grounding out. The condensor could be going bad too. Also, I've seen the coils on those saws deteriorate and fail. Look over the insulation. Clean the oil off of the points after sanding and gapping. I put some rubbing alcohol on a piece of paper and pull it through the closed points. Make sure the points are contacting squarely (not 'cockeyed'). Sometimes a little 'tweak' of the stationary contact bracket is needed to get them to sit square when closed. Gap and clean again after squaring them up.
 
Points coil.

I don't have an IPL for a XL-130 so don't know what that one would be.

I have both three and five screw 'magneto backplates' on hand. So, if you want to mount breaker points, just let me know.

Your best bet is the points coil with an Atom module.

where to get atom module? never done this before... are they specific to saw or universal? thanks for the info...
 
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Points coil.

I don't have an IPL for a XL-130 so don't know what that one would be.

I have both three and five screw 'magneto backplates' on hand. So, if you want to mount breaker points, just let me know.

Your best bet is the points coil with an Atom module.

Apparently the XL-130 is the Canadian version of the XL-123. There should be an IPL for that sw available.
Some of the Canadian versions are a mix of a couple of US versions. My 902 AM and the VI922 are like that.
 
where to get atom module? never done this before... are they specific to saw or universal? thanks for the info...

I understand that they are available at auto parts stores. The only one I have, I removed from an XL-800 that I rebuilt.

I restored the points to operating order. It didn't need the module from the get go, the points just need polished and gapped.
 
I understand that they are available at auto parts stores. The only one I have, I removed from an XL-800 that I rebuilt.

I restored the points to operating order. It didn't need the module from the get go, the points just need polished and gapped.

a member here has offered one up, so just lookin for coil to work w/it now, thanks. pete.
 
I'd like to set up my 1050 I use for milling with an air filter like that. I've seen a couple for the XL98 concrete saw but wasn't sure if it would fit. Any one know? Thanks, Joe.

On the 98's filter setup there's a plastic base that attaches on top of the carb chamber... round on top for the filter and squarish underneath to fit flush with the carb chamber top. The problem is the carb chamber shape of a 98 (or any of the XL 700/800/900) being close to a square, but the 1050 is a good bit larger and oblong. You'd need to fabricate a base plate that would mate on top of the 1050 carb chamber. You'd also need to make some type of attachment bracket to hold it down.

Dan
 
Maybe but, not a '57 Firedome.


Am I showin' my age?:msp_ohmy:


I don't think age has anything to do with that. It's more about knowing some of the best classics of the day. I'm likely a bit younger (31) and could spot a DeSoto from a mile away. Although maybe I'm a bit partial to them too, because I grew up with a '55 Firedome in my dads garage. And of course I have my 'ol man to thank for the Homelite fever I think I have as well.
 
.325 x 16 on a Super EZ?

Went shopping for a serviceable 3/8" x .050 x 16 bar for one of my SEZ. Got a Total Super bar (Tsumura) in near new condition.

On closer inspection I see it is .325" pitch nose sprocket.:(

Since I have a rim drive on the saw should I change to .325" x 7? Or, 8 tooth driver?

Or, swap the bar for a 3/8 x 16?

markmdz: 1966 I hauled away a free, beat down '57 Firedome 2dr ht. Rebuilt the carb. and put the fuel tank back in. Drove it two years and fed it lots of engine oil and trans fluid. (Kept a 5 gal. can of compressor oil in the trunk).
 
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Went shopping for a serviceable 3/8" x .050 x 16 bar for one of my SEZ. Got a Total Super bar (Tsumura) in near new condition.

On closer inspection I see it is .325" pitch nose sprocket.:(

Since I have a rim drive on the saw should I change to .325" x 7? Or, 8 tooth driver?

Or, swap the bar for a 3/8 x 16?

I'd go with .325-7. That's what I'm doing with one of my S E-Z's.
 
S-EZ bars

Went shopping for a serviceable 3/8" x .050 x 16 bar for one of my SEZ. Got a Total Super bar (Tsumura) in near new condition.

On closer inspection I see it is .325" pitch nose sprocket.:(

Since I have a rim drive on the saw should I change to .325" x 7? Or, 8 tooth driver?

Or, swap the bar for a 3/8 x 16?

markmdz: 1966 I hauled away a free, beat down '57 Firedome 2dr ht. Rebuilt the carb. and put the fuel tank back in. Drove it two years and fed it lots of engine oil and trans fluid. (Kept a 5 gal. can of compressor oil in the trunk).

I still have original 16" PT bars 3/8" pitch either silver or gray. Have one SP 3/8 which is the heavier sprocket nose.
chainsawlady
 
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