Homelite Chainsaws

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Super 2 oiler

I put together a Homelite Super 2 today from spare parts I had laying around the garage. I think I put it together in the usual way, (it's an older points version), but when I started it up bar oil just poured out the muffler! I'm not sure how this happened, it doesn't have a diaphragm for the oiler, just a pulse from the crankcase to the duckbill inside the tank. Also, it's a version that only has one adjustment screw on the carb, anybody know what the setting should be? I think I tried one and a half turns, it seemed a little anemic but of course the bar oil pouring out the muffler probably hurt the running of it. No danger of the chain rusting, man does this thing oil!

I thought about this for a minute and I'll bet the duckbill valve fell off into the oil tank, I'll check that tomorrow...
 
Joined the Homelite Club Today

Evenin' all.

Well, today I have joined the ranks of those many Homelite owners before me. A nice little 360 followed me home from the flea market today. I figured this was a good a place as any to ask some questions/get some help/etc. I have done some searching here at AS, and the only thing I can find is discussion about carb boots, and possibly something involving a duckbill....

But I have some other questions that I figure Ill throw out first....

1. New to homies as well as outboard clutches. No owners manual, but Im assuming there is a trick to somehow removing the clutch nut easily so I can swap the sprocket. The one on there is pretty well cooked.

2. Recoil was broken when I bought it (cheap price). Took the recoil apart, and the pulley that holds the rope was actually split in half right in the middle. Not sure if this is something that can be fixed with JB weld, or if I need to find a replacement. Assuming its a starter cup based on some web searching. Anyone have an extra one handy?

3. Came wearing a nice older Oregon hardnose bar (20" I think) and a chain that is marked "SW" and "50A". Found out that means Sandvik-Windsor, not sure what the 50A means.

4. Rubber on the back handle is cracking off. Is this easy to replace? Or do I just wrap it with friction tape and call it good?

Thanks in advance for any tips/help/input!
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I put together a Homelite Super 2 today from spare parts I had laying around the garage. I think I put it together in the usual way, (it's an older points version), but when I started it up bar oil just poured out the muffler! I'm not sure how this happened, it doesn't have a diaphragm for the oiler, just a pulse from the crankcase to the duckbill inside the tank. Also, it's a version that only has one adjustment screw on the carb, anybody know what the setting should be? I think I tried one and a half turns, it seemed a little anemic but of course the bar oil pouring out the muffler probably hurt the running of it. No danger of the chain rusting, man does this thing oil!

I thought about this for a minute and I'll bet the duckbill valve fell off into the oil tank, I'll check that tomorrow...
Click to expand...

Joe are you sure that it doesn't have the diaphragm oiler pump? If it does and you have the lines switched, it'll suck bar oil. Otherwise, I'm betting the duckbill valve did indeed fall off. That'd let it suck bar oil and air. Not good. If you get the duckbill sorted out and it's still running like crap then you probably have an air leak. Probably bad crank seals and/or a leaking carb gasket or intake block gasket (or a cracked intake block).
 
Eccentric said:
Joe are you sure that it doesn't have the diaphragm oiler pump? If it does and you have the lines switched, it'll suck bar oil. Otherwise, I'm betting the duckbill valve did indeed fall off. That'd let it suck bar oil and air. Not good. If you get the duckbill sorted out and it's still running like crap then you probably have an air leak. Probably bad crank seals and/or a leaking carb gasket or intake block gasket (or a cracked intake block).
Click to expand...

I'm only sure of one thing at this point, the duckbill valve is still on the end of the hose. This is an older points saw that only has one line coming from the block, toward the center which the db is on. The other one goes to the bar mount nozzle from the tank. I'm also entertaining the possibility of someone putting bar oil in the fuel tank or the engine being full of bar oil. Anyway, I drained the bar oil from the tank and the saw still didn't run too well so I'll probably tear it back down and check out the intake and carburetor like I should have done before putting it together. I'll also check the oil lines again. I've often heard about how little these little Homelites oil, well I can tell you this one oils way too much! In the little time I had it running it had oil streaming all over the bar, the bottom of the saw, me, the exhaust, etc. I didn't realize these little saws even held that much oil...
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I'm only sure of one thing at this point, the duckbill valve is still on the end of the hose. This is an older points saw that only has one line coming from the block, toward the center which the db is on. The other one goes to the bar mount nozzle from the tank. I'm also entertaining the possibility of someone putting bar oil in the fuel tank or the engine being full of bar oil. Anyway, I drained the bar oil from the tank and the saw still didn't run too well so I'll probably tear it back down and check out the intake and carburetor like I should have done before putting it together. I'll also check the oil lines again. I've often heard about how little these little Homelites oil, well I can tell you this one oils way too much! In the little time I had it running it had oil streaming all over the bar, the bottom of the saw, me, the exhaust, etc. I didn't realize these little saws even held that much oil...
Click to expand...

Yikes. The crankcase could still be full of bar oil if the saw was ran without an intact duckbill on the impulse line (before you worked on it). When I had the lines switched on the early diaphragm equipped saw that I worked on earlier, it took at least five minutes of running (making cuts........not just idling) for all the remaining oil to be burned off and the bug fogging to cease. The muffler was full too (and it was the muffler type that can't be disassembled). Took a while for it to burn out. Bar oil in the fuel tank is a definite possibility as the filler caps are so close together.....
 
Eccentric said:
Yikes. The crankcase could still be full of bar oil if the saw was ran without an intact duckbill on the impulse line (before you worked on it). When I had the lines switched on the early diaphragm equipped saw that I worked on earlier, it took at least five minutes of running (making cuts........not just idling) for all the remaining oil to be burned off and the bug fogging to cease. The muffler was full too (and it was the muffler type that can't be disassembled). Took a while for it to burn out. Bar oil in the fuel tank is a definite possibility as the filler caps are so close together.....
Click to expand...

I'm thinking about hanging the saw up by the bar tip and letting the oil drain out of it. I'll take the muffler off and see if there's much in it. I've got so many non-runners right now that I'm trying to figure out which one is the least trouble to fix. I have a Super EZ that may need a p/c and I have a parts saw for it. I have a Poulan Pro 380 that has several small things wrong plus a big oil leak in it that I haven't found yet plus I just put a p/c in my Super XL out of a parts saw, been keeping busy with this old stuff.
 
Last edited:
I went out to the garage a few minutes ago and tore the Super 2 down again, just took a few minutes, now soaking the carb and guess what..I have had that carb apart before. I guess another soak in carb cleaner won't hurt it. The hose to the duckbill valve in the oil tank was disconnected--at the engine, the db valve was intact. Still don't know why it oiled so much unless it was coming from the pulse line and it was 2 cycle oil I was seeing all over everywhere. I'm gonna MotoSeal the gaskets on the intake when I put it back together this time. I'll also inspect the engine better this time and still hope for the best..
 
Clarkbug said:
Evenin' all.

Well, today I have joined the ranks of those many Homelite owners before me. A nice little 360 followed me home from the flea market today. I figured this was a good a place as any to ask some questions/get some help/etc. I have done some searching here at AS, and the only thing I can find is discussion about carb boots, and possibly something involving a duckbill....

But I have some other questions that I figure Ill throw out first....

1. New to homies as well as outboard clutches. No owners manual, but Im assuming there is a trick to somehow removing the clutch nut easily so I can swap the sprocket. The one on there is pretty well cooked.

2. Recoil was broken when I bought it (cheap price). Took the recoil apart, and the pulley that holds the rope was actually split in half right in the middle. Not sure if this is something that can be fixed with JB weld, or if I need to find a replacement. Assuming its a starter cup based on some web searching. Anyone have an extra one handy?

3. Came wearing a nice older Oregon hardnose bar (20" I think) and a chain that is marked "SW" and "50A". Found out that means Sandvik-Windsor, not sure what the 50A means.

4. Rubber on the back handle is cracking off. Is this easy to replace? Or do I just wrap it with friction tape and call it good?

Thanks in advance for any tips/help/input!
Click to expand...

Anyone?

And more questions will be coming. A homelite 1050 auto just found its way into my car..... finally in the 100cc club!
 
Clarkbug said:
Anyone?

And more questions will be coming. A homelite 1050 auto just found its way into my car..... finally in the 100cc club!
Click to expand...

You're better off replacing the pulley. I don't have any 360 parts. Can't help you with the chain # decoding either. There have been many 'fixes' for the missing handlebar rubber. Search the chainsaw section for threads.

There were three different clutch setups (that I know of) on those saws. Some require a special too to unscrew the clutch hub and/or clutch cover (available from ebay sellers......or improvised). Others have a nut that can be turned with a socket. You mentioned a nut on yours.

Download this Homelite Service Manual and read up on the clutch section. Remember..............LH thread. I use a 3/8" 'butterfly' type impact gun (start with the lowest torque setting and slowly, cautiously work up as needed) to break loose and install clutches when possible rather than using a piston stop (or the rod through the crankcase into the flywheel).

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

Find your Illustrated Parts List from this list using your UT#

Index of /pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws
 
Last edited:
Clarkbug said:
Evenin' all.

Well, today I have joined the ranks of those many Homelite owners before me. A nice little 360 followed me home from the flea market today. I figured this was a good a place as any to ask some questions/get some help/etc. I have done some searching here at AS, and the only thing I can find is discussion about carb boots, and possibly something involving a duckbill....

But I have some other questions that I figure Ill throw out first....

3. Came wearing a nice older Oregon hardnose bar (20" I think) and a chain that is marked "SW" and "50A". Found out that means Sandvik-Windsor, not sure what the 50A means.

Thanks in advance for any tips/help/input!
Click to expand...

It appears that Sandvik bought Windsor Machine LTD in 1986.
Windsor - Woodland International Inc. Wholesale Logging Supplies

If they kept the Windsor numbering system, 50A would be a semi chisel 0.050 gauge chain

Chain Saw Chain
 
Last edited:
fossil said:
That's a nice find. I have never seen any large Homelites 100cc and up for sale around me. If Acre's weight on his site is correct, that's a pretty light saw for it's size.
Click to expand...

Tim you have a C-Series if I recall correctly. A 1050 weighs a pound or two more than a C-series.
 
Eccentric said:
Tim you have a C-Series if I recall correctly. A 1050 weighs a pound or two more than a C-series.
Click to expand...

I never bought it Aaron. It was a C7 and the guy wanted $200 for it which I thought was way too much.
The largest ones I have are the 77cc 902AM and the 77cc VI922.
I can't complain about the power and weight on those. They are pretty good saws although they remind me a bit of pulling over my 500cc Cat ATV with the pull start. (It never flips over when pulling though).
 
Warped5 said:
That bar may even be original to the saw. I have a 1050 from out East and it had a 22" B&C from the dealer .. still have it, too.
Click to expand...

The good light is gone now, but Ill try to get some more shots tomorrow. the other side of the bar has the whole logo there, and everything looks to be in really good shape. Even has a dealer sticker still on it and legible.

Owner said he tried to start it today (was stored in his garage dry) and couldnt get it to fire. Just was too heavy for him to deal with. He said he used it as backup for a Husky 61?

But the info you guys have provided so far is awesome. I cant begin to imagine how you know all this stuff. So, thank you in advance! I wouldnt have ever even attempted to buy something like this without knowing I could come ask questions from the experts here. :bowdown:

I searched but couldnt find anything on a good way to wrap/repair the rear handle. I think Ill just go with the sports tape idea unless there is a reason not to...
 
Clarkbug said:
The good light is gone now, but Ill try to get some more shots tomorrow. the other side of the bar has the whole logo there, and everything looks to be in really good shape. Even has a dealer sticker still on it and legible.

Owner said he tried to start it today (was stored in his garage dry) and couldnt get it to fire. Just was too heavy for him to deal with. He said he used it as backup for a Husky 61?

But the info you guys have provided so far is awesome. I cant begin to imagine how you know all this stuff. So, thank you in advance! I wouldnt have ever even attempted to buy something like this without knowing I could come ask questions from the experts here. :bowdown:

I searched but couldnt find anything on a good way to wrap/repair the rear handle. I think Ill just go with the sports tape idea unless there is a reason not to...
Click to expand...

This thread deals with front handle wrap but you may find a suitable material you could use to make something up for the rear handle.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/198433.htm
 

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