Homelite Chainsaws

[BDM53ENT]

If forced into it, I'd set my dial caliper at the shaft dimeter and try the seal over the 'nibs'. .005" interfearence fit would be ball park good.

Thank you I can work with that. First I have to go find the piston snap ring that went flying. I did hands and knees for awhile but I guess its time to pull the ole 6x9 car speaker out and drag it around the shop lol.

 

[67L36Driver]

Thank you I can work with that. First I have to go find the piston snap ring that went flying. I did hands and knees for awhile but I guess its time to pull the ole 6x9 car speaker out and drag it around the shop lol.

Old saw flywheel works the same..............................................................................................

 

[fossil]

Ive got the case split. just have to pop em out. I guess I could mic the crank, and old seal and start searching. My reflectance to do that is Im not sure on the I.D. Example, if a crank measures 1" how much smaller is the I.D. of the seal for a proper seal, follow me?

OK.
For the clearance for the outside (OD) of the seal to the saw case pocket;
for a metal case seal the bore to seal OD interference should be 0.005" )+/- 0.002"
for a rubber cased seal the bore to seal OD interference should be 0.008" +/- 0.003"

That being said, the seals are grouped by shaft diameter and listed in order of housing bore size in either inches or mm
Measure your crank where the seal rides. If it's 0.625" that you will be looking for a seal that fits that shaft size.
Measure the saw case bore and you are looking for a seal that fits that bore size.

In other words, they size the seal for you if you know the case bore and shaft size. It's that easy.

The seal material you want is nitrile.
You want either a double lip or single lip seal. The double lip in the case is not two sealing surfaces. The outer lip is a dust / dirt seal.
They must have a garter spring.
I will add a link to the Timken catalog (National seals) if the AS site will let me,

The lip design listed as Type / Illus. you want in that catalog is 25
The lip material nitrile is listed in the charts as LIP / Matl. is "S" (NOT N)

I hope this helps. If you have trouble, PM me the case bore and shaft size and I'll do my best to find you the correct seal.
If the link doesn't come up, PM me you e-mail and I'll send it to you.

http://www.timken.com/EN-US/products/seals/industrial/products/Documents/7707.pdf

 

[67L36Driver]

To the above the only thing I could add is: Be prepared to accept a seal without garter spring. And, be flexible on width.

 

[fossil]

To the above the only thing I could add is: Be prepared to accept a seal without garter spring. And, be flexible on width.

Yikes! I forgot about the width.
Hopefully he won't need to accept one without the garter spring. The spring is really important if the axial run out is bad.

Thanks for adding that info on Carl.

 

[67L36Driver]

On many old saws you will notice that when you pull off the coil/magneto bracket you find a felt washer in a counterbore next to the flywheel side oil seal. Put it back where you found it with a couple drops of engine oil. It is there to lubricate the outside of the seal.

 

[BDM53ENT]

I was able to open the link and thank you very much. I had to attend to customers equipment today so it will be this weekend before I can fool with it.

I havent looked yet but did Homelite use a garter spring seal on such a small cc motor? Once I figure this out, order the seal and MAKE sure it works I will then announce the part #. I dont want to blurt out a # untested if you know what I mean.

Your help is appreciated and you guys knowledge of some of this stuff is quite scary

.

 

[Eccentric]

Homelite used seals with garter springs on the little 26cc-41cc XL/XL2/Super2/240/etc saws as well (same seal also used on the 30-38cc Poulan Micros). That seal is SKF 4913 (or Poulan/Husqvarna 530019059)........

 

[homelitejim]

Found this at the scrap. Everything looked ok so I filled with new fuel and 3 pulls later it was running like a champ. Wish I could embed video from my phone.

 

[watsonr]

you guys see that 750 on eBay go for $1500????

 

[Eccentric]

Been some weird stuff happening on feebay lately. We can look forward to another rash of people listing 'vintage' saws for stupid prices based on what the sellers have seen in some of those recent listings.....

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

you guys see that 750 on eBay go for $1500????

That saw did not look that good too. Last year I saw a 750 listed for $500. as a BIN that did not sell.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-75...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

[machinisttx]

Old saw flywheel works the same..............................................................................................

Magnets from a trashed computer hard drive work even better.

 

[Nickolas]

I recently got a 1050 and it has a Tillotson HL141C on it. From what i read it should be a 222 so I wonder if it is enough or if it will run too lean? I mostly have McCulloch saws so not too familiar with Homelites but am looking to add a few to the collection.
There is an extra grommet on the side of the housing i guess was for the correct carb for idle adjustment maybe? I found the 222 number on an IPL and saw the idle adjustment up front. Anyway i wonder if I can run it with this carb or should i get the correct one for it? Anyone have a correct carb for this saw they wanna come off of if I need to change it? I'm surprised it doesn't have a decompression valve as the compression is very stout on this saw like m 925 at nearly 200 psi.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Nickolas]

I am curious about the 114cc saws like the 1020, 2000, 2100. Seems everyone wants a 2100 but if they all are 114cc is the 2100 better than the others? Does it have more or better porting or are they all comparable to one another? There must be some feature that makes it better than the others or maybe just because the number is higher it sounds better than say a 1020? I don't know much about Homelites so trying to learn a bit here. I know the 1050 I recently got has very stout compression like my 925 but neither have a decompression valve on them. They are hard to pull over. My 925 is near 200 psi on a new gauge and the 1050 feels as strong if not stronger as I havent taken a reading yet but it is stout. So it should make a good runner. I want to get a few more saws like maybe a 1020, 2000, 2100, 3100 so im looking for info and seeing what is what. It would be nice if those saws had a decompression valve on them makes it much easier to start.

I know my Mac 797 is nearly impossible to pull over unless you have the valve switched on it will break your wrist nearly it is so strong. So I have taken a liken to some of these Homelite saws and need to do a little research on some of them to know whats what. I have found several 2100 saws and a super 2100 but havent bought one yet. Is the super 2100 any different from a regular 2100 or is it just a name? Thanks for any input on my questions I appreciate it much. I put a want add in the Tradin Post looking for a nice clean saw for the collection and got a few hits so am waiting on pics and info.. I think the Homelite bug has bitten me a tad so I will be adding red/orange to the black and yellow collection now it seeems. My other half is going to have a fit when she see's the garage filling up with more saws but oh well like I tell her would she rather I go to a bar or have this hobby that keeps me home and content?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[cbfarmall]

First, the 1020 is 100cc in all its forms. Secondly, the 2100 is just that much better. It is really just an improved 2000, but I'm not exactly sure what all the particulars are. The Super 2100A was the last in that line--different piston, cylinder, clutch (the early Supers anyway).

The 2000, 2100, 3100 all have decomps. The 6 cube saws don't.

Chris B.

 

[fossil]

Tillotson carb question
I have a XL-902AM with an HS 56A carb. It has a governor.
The saw startsd up well but does not ilde well. It is running very rich. H & L screws have little effect.
The carb has a fresh kit in it.
The saw has been pressure & vac tested and holds both well.
From what I've read on here I guessing it may be a governor issue.
Does that make sense or should I be looking elsewhere?

 

[Eccentric]

First, the 1020 is 100cc in all its forms. Secondly, the 2100 is just that much better. It is really just an improved 2000, but I'm not exactly sure what all the particulars are. The Super 2100A was the last in that line--different piston, cylinder, clutch (the early Supers anyway).

The 2000, 2100, 3100 all have decomps. The 6 cube saws don't.

Chris B.

Yep. The XP-1000, XP-1020, 1050, XP-1100, XP1130, and 1130G (and all variants of them) are 100cc. The 100cc models are great saws, but the 114cc saws put out much more power than the 100cc saws with only a tad more weight. The 114cc saws have a longer stroke (in addition to a larger bore), better intake reed block setup, bigger/better cylinder porting, larger mufflers, and larger carburetors than the 100cc saws. They also usually have the larger capacity fuel tank front.

There are several small differences between the 2000 variants (2000, 2000E, etc) and the 2100 variants (2100, 2100-S, Super 2100, etc). The biggest differences between the 2000's and the 2100's (and the 3100G) are the larger cast cylinder shield (on the 2100/3100G) that wraps around the left side of the saw and meets the shortened flywheel cover (while a 2000 has a flywheel cover that looks like what's on the 100cc and smaller saws along with a thin sheet aluminum shield), and the 'outside the flywheel' ignition that's on the 2100's and 3100G (while the 2000 has an 'under the flywheel' ignition like the 100cc and C-series saws).

Tillotson carb question
I have a XL-902AM with an HS 56A carb. It has a governor.
The saw startsd up well but does not ilde well. It is running very rich. H & L screws have little effect.
The carb has a fresh kit in it.
The saw has been pressure & vac tested and holds both well.
From what I've read on here I guessing it may be a governor issue.
Does that make sense or should I be looking elsewhere?

Tim that could well be the governor valve leaking. It's supposed to open at a certain RPM..............but they sometimes will open early or 'weep' at the wrong times. You can block that bugger off by putting a .250" disc of aluminum (cut from a beer or soda can) or thin copper under the valve and then threading the valve back in tight. Put some sealer on the threads of the governor valve (but don't get any on the grooved inside end of it). Since the carb passes pres/vac tests, I think it is the governor valve that's causing your problem rather than a leaking welch plug or needle/seat issue.

 

[Nickolas]

I appreciate all the info guys. Sounds like an interesting group of saws. What about the 141 carb is it going to be ok for the 1050 saw or will it run too lean? I don't want to ruin my saw with the wrong carb on it with too little fuel...

 

[fossil]

I appreciate all the info guys. Sounds like an interesting group of saws. What about the 141 carb is it going to be ok for the 1050 saw or will it run too lean? I don't want to ruin my saw with the wrong carb on it with too little fuel...

Don't assume that because the carb model number is lower that the venturi is smaller. The carbs are designed to provide enough fuel for the air that venturi size will flow. You should have no issue as long as you tune it correctly. If the carb venturi is smaller the performance may suffer some but it shouldn't draw too much air to damage the saw. You should vacuum / pressure check that saw to make sure yiou have no leaks and it's always a good idea to replace the old crank seals especially if you plan to put it to use.
Post the carb 141 and 222 carb numbers in the main chainsaw forum and ask for the venturi sizes as a few guys have Tillotson catalogs that go way back and may be able to give you your answer.