Homelite Chainsaws

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I guess I confused gear drive with it being direct drive off the engine with no clutch. I have not yet had a chance to clean the carb and get it running. At this point it either has a clutch problem because the chain moves anytime the crank does (and vise versa), or was it maybe a thing to make it direct drive because of the 53" bar?? It is something I'll have to check out. Thanks for all the input guys.
Both gear drives and direct drives have a clutch. Most likely the clutch drum bearing is stuck to the crank, or something else. ( rust ect...). With no issues, ( saw not running) direct drives, should be able to move chain freely by hand. Gear drives it will be much harder, if at all because of the gearing. Both, the chain should not move when pulling rope.
 
I tried my hand at making an air filter for the XL 76/130 series. I traced out an OEM filter and cut out a plastic ring to which I could glue the felt. I laid the ring in the carb box and ran a bead of glue around the perimeter. I placed an oversize piece of felt over the area and cranked down the cover. It bedded the felt nicely. I then flipped the felt so the ring was facing up and repeated the process with another layer of felt. I still need to trim a bit tighter using a razor knife. But, it fits well and the cover seals tight. With the two layers of felt laminated to the ring, the filter holds its shape well.

We'll see how it does when sucking on some clouds of Doug-fir.

Homelite XL-76 130 Filter 1.jpg Homelite XL-76 130 Filter 2.jpg
 
We'll see how it does when sucking on some clouds of Doug-fir.

As mentioned, it'll also be interesting to see if the two layers of felt are restrictive relative to how the saw tunes. Otherwise, nicely done!

And did you just use heavy craft felt and a regular ol' glue gun? What did you use for the plastic frame?
 
I have already added the stiff craft felt to some of my other 76's and 9xx's in addition to the OEM filters. It does help to keep the air box cleaner. No sign of congestion and they tune around 1 1/8 - 1 1/2 L and 1 H.

The double-layered one I made passes air well. Those covers are wide open all the way around the perimeter except for the front. So, there is a lot of surface area. This XL-130 came without a (blue Prestolite) coil at all. I guess it must have bit the dust like so many others. I found an alternate as a work around. It starts easy, idles and throttles well without adjusting the timing. I'll need to ID the coil as I am not sure what saw it came off off. I am thinking Husqvarna 50 maybe.

I cut the frame from a 2 L ice cream container. The thin kind. I used super glue gel for this one and it soaked into the felt well and was clean to apply. The edge of the filter/frame is nice and stiff. I did add a rubber grommet over the cover post between the knob and filter. It seals well. HS-125 dialed in at 1 1/8 and 1. High speed governor has not been disabled.
 
Thanks for the follow up. Sounds like a winner!

Hi Poge.

The filter seems breathe well. When it is sucking dust, things may change. Any idea what this coil might be off of? I am thinking Husqvarna 50. It has EM stamped on it. But, IDK my Husqvarnas well. The XL-130 has taken a shine to it though.

Homelite XL-130  2.jpg

Iffin' that home made filter don't work out, shoot me a PM with your name/address.
I have one or more of the XL-101 type filters left over.

Thanks for the offer Carl. I have a handful of these saws to put together right now and most don't have filters.
 
I just happened to have a Husky 50 sitting here. (Two, actually.) Here is one version of their coil. Slight variations exist from different manufacturers, but they're basically all the same up through the 55 Rancher. Wouldn't that be cool if they could be used in place of the notorious blue Prestolite module. The Husky mounting is obviously inverted/reversed, but it does look real similar. I can pull it to compare some numbers with what you have. The Husky part number would be some variation of 506-xx-xx-01..., probably 506-02-72-01 for one that old.

1211162203a_resized.jpg

1211162204_resized.jpg
 
Ive been going though all my Homelite parts trying to organize them. At some point in time I bought some Nova II electronic ignition conversions and never used them. Have any you changed from the points to electronic ignition? Most all my saws with points get a periodic check, clean, gap and run just fine. Is it worth the time to swap them or just wait until a set of points or condenser gives out?
 
I have had two with the modules in place, both installed by previous owners. One was an SXLAO, the other an XL500. The SXLAO was a devil to start, always wanted to pull the rope out of my hand. Once it got going it was Katie bar the door, it cut like crazy. I sold it and 2 years later the new owner had not been able to pull hard enough to start it. I offered to buy it back but he declined, ?. The XL500 I still have, it is my favorite saw at this point. It has been used and abused before I got it and I have done very little to it. It starts very easily and also cuts like mad. My luck with the modules is 50/50.

Would I install one? Well I have two modules waiting and no inclination to install them. They will wait some more I guess. I do not want to have another hard starting SXLAO but the modules require no maintenance.

I have a Big Red and a John Deere CS350 (SXLAO in yellow and black) that both have factory solid state ignition. Both start easily and run very well. I have another XL500 that has an ignition problem for which I have acquired the parts to convert it to factory solid state ignition rather than the module.

Points are pretty reliable and I am not inclined to take a good running saw apart to install a module.
 
I just happened to have a Husky 50 sitting here. (Two, actually.) Here is one version of their coil. Slight variations exist from different manufacturers, but they're basically all the same up through the 55 Rancher. Wouldn't that be cool if they could be used in place of the notorious blue Prestolite module. The Husky mounting is obviously inverted/reversed, but it does look real similar. I can pull it to compare some numbers with what you have. The Husky part number would be some variation of 506-xx-xx-01..., probably 506-02-72-01 for one that old.

Thanks Poge.

I'll pull that coil sometime this weekend and see if I can get any other ID off of it. My cursory search shows that coil is common across several models if it is from a 50. Inexpensive and plentiful coil options perhaps. Nice.

I just ordered up some E-z lok inserts to replace the stripped out handle bracket mounts. After that, I will throw it in some wood and adjust from there. I might try a couple degrees advance.

Any idea if these coils are fixed timing?
 
I tried the local Fastenal. They seem to be friendly and willing to help. Although these ship from Indianapolis, I was informed that Canada has its own division of Fastenal shipping to expedite the process. Apparently I will get the threaded inserts in 5-6 days. Shipping is $0.42 per package or so. I was informed they want to compete in the Canadian market. Anything in the catalog is fair game.
 
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