Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
i agree you need a replacment . But I cant seem to wait for one . This works. File cut a solid copper key , tight to the good side of broken keyway. Then weld or hire welder , steel resists copper. Dirty weld fix .You can pop it out with a chisel and file clean . Tig is best . It's a solid repair on a impossible .
 
Frankin homie . Remington 7/16 .058 24" worn bar converted to odd ball .375 x .063 chain I had . Might as well use it up . Since I had the rim too! Took right to it , runs smooth. Oil hole right . Drilled bar for max life. Anybody have a scan of the spike?
IMG_1728.JPG
 
Thought I'd post this here as well as in the Trading Post. Looks like I'm going to need a cylinder for my 17L resto. Part numbers are 55000B or 55491. I have a new one lined up but was really hoping to get something for $20 - $30 bucks since I've over spent on this thing already. Cylinder from a 4-20 is the same. Also looking for the outer exhaust cover / shield.
 
Can anyone help me ID this spike?
d7d879cb6a3e0dd161f4e71274af4b4d.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Picked up a Homelite XP1020 a while back, and started getting into it a few days ago. Saw has tremendous compression, very hot spark, good p/c, new fuel lines, and a new carb kit. The fuel tank vent does work. No matter where I have the carb settings, it will not stay running. It simply burns up the fuel I squirt in it, then dies. Any thoughts?

I am planning on going through this saw, and putting new seals and gaskets in it, but thought I'd ask here for opinions first.
 
Anyone know what kind of fuel line that homelite used on the 350/360 series? I need to get some as it seems to stay more flexible in the cold weather compared to tygon here in Minnesota.
 
Picked up a Homelite XP1020 a while back, and started getting into it a few days ago. Saw has tremendous compression, very hot spark, good p/c, new fuel lines, and a new carb kit. The fuel tank vent does work. No matter where I have the carb settings, it will not stay running. It simply burns up the fuel I squirt in it, then dies. Any thoughts?

I am planning on going through this saw, and putting new seals and gaskets in it, but thought I'd ask here for opinions first.

assuming the carb is correctly assembled, it could be a blocked impulse passage to the carb but my first guess would be a bad air leak somewhere. Reeds may be cracked or broken as well.
 
assuming the carb is correctly assembled, it could be a blocked impulse passage to the carb but my first guess would be a bad air leak somewhere. Reeds may be cracked or broken as well.
The idle speed screw goes into the intake manifold, and meters the amount of air allowed into the engine. Are these prone to having problems? Never dealt with anything like it before. It also has an accelerator pump on the carb.
 
The idle speed screw goes into the intake manifold, and meters the amount of air allowed into the engine. Are these prone to having problems? Never dealt with anything like it before. It also has an accelerator pump on the carb.
The beast lives!
Just got to messing around with the XP1020 again, had the idle screw out too far. So it runs fairly good now.
But, it runs lean at high speed, and when I shut it off, a large puff of smoke comes out of the idle screw. That leads me to believe the air leak is coming from the idle screw... Like a o-ring or gasket is bad. Either that or the reeds need help. When I get some spare time, I'll dig into it a bit more.
 
The idle speed screw goes into the intake manifold, and meters the amount of air allowed into the engine. Are these prone to having problems? Never dealt with anything like it before. It also has an accelerator pump on the carb.

Pioneer used an idle adjust like that (Inject-Aire) late '60's early '70's. Weird over complication.

The one on my Pioneer 3200 took a bit of fiddling between the air screw and the idle mix but seems to work well.

Here's a clip from the Homelite repair manual on it.

upload_2018-1-3_18-35-4.png

I don't have a Homelite with that set up on it but there seems to be lots of the old models running well out there.

As far as the accelerator pump; I've never heard of one on an HL carb but I don't have much experience with them.
 
Pioneer used an idle adjust like that (Inject-Aire) late '60's early '70's. Weird over complication.

The one on my Pioneer 3200 took a bit of fiddling between the air screw and the idle mix but seems to work well.

Here's a clip from the Homelite repair manual on it.

View attachment 622957

I don't have a Homelite with that set up on it but there seems to be lots of the old models running well out there.

As far as the accelerator pump; I've never heard of one on an HL carb but I don't have much experience with them.
I agree with "over complication"... It's essentially giving the saw a controlled air leak to set idle speed, and compensating the air leak with richening up the low speed.
 
Back
Top