Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
It is not the fuel line that the tank is almost empty
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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GoBigRed
ArboristSite Operative
I used por-15 for the local parts store. It’s very good stuff, but you need to be on the spot and follow the directions. It’s held up for quite a while and has no issues with leaks. Much much easier than splitting the tank to seal it and just as effective.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Fuel tank sealer ?
I checked and Por 15 is available in Poland on ebay.
GoBigRed
ArboristSite Operative
That’s the stuff. Worked great for me. Just have to ensure the inside of the tank is clean as a whistle.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
And this is pouring inside?
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
That sounds very good 
How much is kept in the tank? The wetest is under the cylinder and muffler
How much is kept in the tank? The wetest is under the cylinder and muffler
GoBigRed
ArboristSite Operative
It’s poured in and swirled around. I poured it, and did a few swirling with about an hour in between each one. The you turn it upside down to drain, and then put it right side up to cure. I think it takes three days if I remember correctkyThat sounds very good
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Do you need something to rinse the tank before and after?
I have used por 15 a few times with good results. I cleaned the tank first with very hot water and soap to remove the oil and gas. Then I dried it with a hair dryer. ( or just leave the cap off for a few days)
In more extreme dirty tank cases I have used acetone to clean the tank.
Just follow the directions for applying the sealant and wait the recommended curing time before filling it with fuel.( I usually wait 1 week).
I found it looked thin so I have put two coats on. Not sure if it actually needed it but I usually overdo everything….
In more extreme dirty tank cases I have used acetone to clean the tank.
Just follow the directions for applying the sealant and wait the recommended curing time before filling it with fuel.( I usually wait 1 week).
I found it looked thin so I have put two coats on. Not sure if it actually needed it but I usually overdo everything….
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Need to remove the fuel line and grommets?
Absolutely
I picked up 5 Homelites for about $16.50 each last week.
Here is my progress. The last vid is a hoot.
Here is my progress. The last vid is a hoot.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
The spark plug will not withstand that amount of oil ;-) neither can I
Hi guys,I bought a SXL-922 almost 1 1/2 yrs.ago & got it delivered about 2 weeks ago - long story.I knew the piston was scored shortly after I bought it.I pulled the engine apart the other day & pulled the piston off.I was going to put a LRB piston on that I got on Feebay back in April,but after reading another member's post on what happened with the LRB piston he used on his Mac,I decided against using it & bought an OEM Homelite piston kit.I don't like how flimsy & cheap the LRB piston kit is.On the original piston that was in the 922 I used a drift pin & hammer to knock out the wrist pin & it fought me all the way to the end.The LRB wrist pin slides in & out of the piston very easily by hand.I don't think it should be that loose.I'll be posting pics as the rebuild progresses.Right now I'm waiting on the piston kit & some gaskets.
Heat the piston up and the pin will practically slide in and out by hand
I got the piston kit last week,right now I'm waiting on the gaskets.Old Bob is pretty slow in getting oprders out these days,Lol.Good thing I've got plenty of other saws to keep me busy,Lol.
Speaking of keeping busy,I've got an XL-103 that I just couldn't figure out till today.I put a new condenser in it & cleaned the points,rebuilt the carb a while back & yet I just couldn't get the saw to fire up regularly.Today I decided to tear it down & put new rings in it,even though it has 130 psi,not the best,but not awfully bad either.I pulled the carb,coil,muffler,& disconnected the oil lines.I was just about ready to pull the reart handle off when I happened to look into where the reed assembly is & thought I saw a broken reed.I pulled the carb to reed spacer off & pulled the reed cage out & sure as shootin' one of the reeds was broken.I don't know what happened to the piece that's missing,the piston isn't scored & neither is the cylinder,at least on the exhaust port anyway.So,I believe I found the answer as to why it started so hard.Plus it was missing a gasket on the carb spacer.Put those 2 things together & there's the recipe for a hard to start saw.The thing is that when it would rarely start it ran beautifully.Here's a pic of the reed.
Attachments
Posted in chainsaw forum but probably should be here...
C-51
Found while sorting out a derelict house down our road...
Pulls over & feels like it's got good compression, manual oiler seems to work to.
Might end up in the "you suck" thread if I get to keep it
C-51
Found while sorting out a derelict house down our road...
Pulls over & feels like it's got good compression, manual oiler seems to work to.
Might end up in the "you suck" thread if I get to keep it
