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On a related matter, does anyone know where I can find, or what is a good part number for a clutch drum with a .325 sprocket to fit the XL / Super 2 models? The same fellow that brought in the first XL2 to get worked on brought in new 16" .325 bar to fit it and wanted me to make him a chain. Unless we can find a clutch drum/sprocket to work with the bar it doesn't do much good.

Mark
 
On a related matter, does anyone know where I can find, or what is a good part number for a clutch drum with a .325 sprocket to fit the XL / Super 2 models? The same fellow that brought in the first XL2 to get worked on brought in new 16" .325 bar to fit it and wanted me to make him a chain. Unless we can find a clutch drum/sprocket to work with the bar it doesn't do much good.

Mark


I'm pretty sure no one made a .325 sprocket for that saw. I checked Oregon and Homelite and none show up. The saw is only 33cc.
Maybe he can return the bar.
 
I saw a local ad for a chain ditching saw . First timer for me to see this application for chainsaws. Homelite XL-12 .

View attachment 992389

I hope you were able to find room for that one Roland, certainly a unique machine and one that you would find a lot of use for I'm sure with your huge woodlot.

Mark
 
Wow a stump digger.
I also know couple guys that need that when they are cutting firewood.


Actually I believe it's for grinding a ditch in the soil for cable laying or irrigation tubes, not for stump grinding. Since we have now wolves again in our area, it could be used as well for installing wolf proof fencing, that needs to be dug into the ground to a certain depth.

@ Mark : that thing takes up too much space for my collection...
 
New challenge for me, I am working on a 360 that won't oil consistently. Seems to spit a little out when idling and revving up and down, but no steady stream when it is running flat out.

I have replaced the line in the tank, cleaned the pick up thoroughly, replaced the line from the tank to the pump, and pulled the pump and shot some cleaner through it. O-rings on the pump body all look good.

It seems to be spitting a little air from time to time but with all new lines I don't know where it is coming from. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark
 
New challenge for me, I am working on a 360 that won't oil consistently. Seems to spit a little out when idling and revving up and down, but no steady stream when it is running flat out.

I have replaced the line in the tank, cleaned the pick up thoroughly, replaced the line from the tank to the pump, and pulled the pump and shot some cleaner through it. O-rings on the pump body all look good.

It seems to be spitting a little air from time to time but with all new lines I don't know where it is coming from. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark
From Leon's site,

The oilers are typically very reliable if installed properly. As blythkd mentioned, only the adjustable oilers up to about 1978 have a screw and lever on the front. The givaway is if there is a little protruding nub on the outer edge...the adjustable oiler has this, the non-adjustable does not. O-rings can in theory go bad, but I haven't run across many cases of that. Here's the top problems I've found:

1) Gummy hose from the tank to the pickup barb on the crankcase
2) Pump improperly clocked when installed and not fully seated into the crankcase or jammed by the retainer screw near the clutch
3) Stripped or badly worn pump plunger gear. You find this, it's likely the worm gear is damaged as well and you have to pop the crank seal to get to the worm.
4) And finally the hardest one to diagnose that I have come across yet...the models with a plastic barb on the crankcase for the oil pickup, the plastic fitting can crack just like on a carburetor. Then it sucks air and not oil; bench testing usually shows it to be at least marginal on oil, but as it heats up the crack expands and all oil flow stops. I disassembled a 360 5-6 times before I caught that one!

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.c...who_only_made_by=0&display_as=0&search=Search

I'll send you a link to the thread via email if it get's wiped out when I hit post
 
Thanks Tim. As per usual my problem was nothing ordinary. I had already replaced the oil line in the tank and from the tank to the pump. I cleaned the weighed strainer while I had the oil line out and nothing seemed to help. At first I was testing it without the clutch just in case I had to tear things apart again but I noticed the worm gear was floating around so I assumed it was not turning as it should. Replacing the clutch did not solve the problem.

I pulled the pump and had a look at the shaft and saw the gear was damaged.

20220607_130804.jpg

What I did not know was that the gear was also displaced on the shaft, I uncovered that detail when I pulled another saw apart to see if it had a good shaft and gear.

20220607_130830.jpg

I was able to press the gear back to the proper position but didn't want to use it with the damaged teeth. With the new gear installed the oiler was now working.

This saw came to me as "hard to start", the impulse line was just stuck in the hole in the housing (not connected to the impulse port), the fuel pump diaphragm was stiff, the boot was torn, and the manifold was chipped. This customer is going to have to pay a few bucks to get their now running and oiling saw back.

Before...

20220527_111117.jpg

I will try to remember and post a photo of the finished product tomorrow.

Mark
 

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