Homelite Chainsaws

[OnlyHomelites]

If I didn't know better, I'd think that the gasket and piston that was on that saw were already aftermarket? The gasket especially, they are usually a tan color?
That piston still has machine marks on the rings and skirts, personally I think someone has been in that saw before.

The original tan/red gasket had a substance that had fallen out of good graces by 1990 (asbestos), so the new black gasket was substituted. What Homeltie didn't catch was a minor thickness difference that resulted in an air leak in the exact location you had trouble. Service Memo 192-005 details where to apply silicone around the intake port when using the black gasket: https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...__292-001_to_292-002___392-004_to_392-007.pdf

My guess is the saw had an air leak from day one and consistently ran hot, hence a bum engine on a saw with low hours.

 

[Tony Mayhew]

Done, done, and done. Although I have the Zama carb which I guess people don't like for some reason.

That saw looks like the filter wasn't doing its job very well my friend! I own at least forty homelite chainsaws and have only seen pitting in the cylinder of a 150 that looked like yours! And I figured that was detonation from bad fuel! But you're cylinder looks like it was eating particles of dirt!

 

[numnutz6383]

The original tan/red gasket had a substance that had fallen out of good graces by 1990 (asbestos), so the new black gasket was substituted. What Homeltie didn't catch was a minor thickness difference that resulted in an air leak in the exact location you had trouble. Service Memo 192-005 details where to apply silicone around the intake port when using the black gasket: https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...__292-001_to_292-002___392-004_to_392-007.pdf

My guess is the saw had an air leak from day one and consistently ran hot, hence a bum engine on a saw with low hours.

Well it's getting a NOS tan one, which I should be arriving in a few days. Any idea what the thickness should be or should I just use go ahead and use a little sealant?

That saw looks like the filter wasn't doing its job very well my friend! I own at least forty homelite chainsaws and have only seen pitting in the cylinder of a 150 that looked like yours! And I figured that was detonation from bad fuel! But you're cylinder looks like it was eating particles of dirt!

Quite possible. I'll confirm air filter is sealing once the new cylinder arrives.

Does anyone have experience with those aftermarket nikasil p+c kits from sawsalvage.co?

 

[edju1958]

I got the XL-12 yesterday & began going through it.No spark as the seller saidf.Gee,I wonder why? I took a pic of the points after I pulled them out,then another pic after I cleaned them.

 

[numnutz6383]

Got the new aftermarket P+C in the mail yesterday. I scraped the gasket and I'm all ready to mount the cylinder. But I want to confirm the ring end gap. From what I've seen in the past, the rule of thumb is .004" of end gap per inch of bore. So this being a 1.8125" bore, gap should be 0.00725". The Homelite service manual I have specs 0.070-0.080".

Also the after market rings and ring locating pins on the piston are slightly different than what I pulled from the saw.

New rings ("seal cut", I think?) and piston locating pins.


Old rings ("butt cut" , I think?) and piston.



Is the different style of ring end and locating pin account for the difference in the recommended ring end gap or is that an error in the manual?

 

[fossil]

Got the new aftermarket P+C in the mail yesterday. I scraped the gasket and I'm all ready to mount the cylinder. But I want to confirm the ring end gap. From what I've seen in the past, the rule of thumb is .004" of end gap per inch of bore. So this being a 1.8125" bore, gap should be 0.00725". The Homelite service manual I have specs 0.070-0.080".
View attachment 1155624
Also the after market rings and ring locating pins on the piston are slightly different than what I pulled from the saw.

New rings ("seal cut", I think?) and piston locating pins.
View attachment 1155627
View attachment 1155626
Old rings ("butt cut" , I think?) and piston.
View attachment 1155629
View attachment 1155630

Is the different style of ring end and locating pin account for the difference in the recommended ring end gap or is that an error in the manual?

Don't forget to add the ring locating pin diameter to your ring gap.

 

[flatsfisher]

Don't forget to add the ring locating pin diameter to your ring gap.

the new rings do not require that. the old rings did.

 

[numnutz6383]

the new rings do not require that. the old rings did.

Ok, just to clarify. The new aftermarket "seal cut" rings I have, do not require adding the locating pin diameter because they have the cut out for the pin. So the 0.00725" gap for the 1.8125" bore is the correct gap? I was able to fit a 0.008" feeler but not the 0.009", am I good to go?

 

[cbfarmall]

Those rings hook over the pins, so yes that .008 to .009 gap is good.

 

[numnutz6383]

Those rings hook over the pins, so yes that .008 to .009 gap is good.

Thank you. For my own enlightenment, is adding the locating pin diameter only necessary when installing the old style butt-cut rings?

 

[cbfarmall]

That is true as long as you have locating pins. Plenty of early cylinders have drilled ports, no locating pins with square end rings.

That said, I can't think of any Homelite chainsaws that don't have locating pins.

 

[heimannm]

Time to clean it up and get it ready for the display.










Mark

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Ive been having this one drive me crazy?, Super XL925, found a slight leak around the new 6120 PTO seal so I replaced it with a 6119 seal , has all new seals lines and gaskets. Non governed carburetor.
Repressurized the crank case and it'll hold 14lbs all day. However when I run it and flip it side to side it dies on one side and not the other? Like an air leak. I might just be missing something stupid, but it doesn't make sense.

 

[edju1958]

View attachment 1156496View attachment 1156497
Ive been having this one drive me crazy?, Super XL925, found a slight leak around the new 6120 PTO seal so I replaced it with a 6119 seal , has all new seals lines and gaskets. Non governed carburetor.
Repressurized the crank case and it'll hold 14lbs all day. However when I run it and flip it side to side it dies on one side and not the other? Like an air leak. I might just be missing something stupid, but it doesn't make sense.

Here's a thought Ira (maybe a stupid one at that too),do you think it's a possibility it might be in the carb?Another test you can do to rule out an air leak from the seal(s) is to spray brake cleaner at the seal area while running.If it has a leak there the saw will suck in the brake cleaner & the saw will die immediately.

 

[heimannm]

Ira - is there a chance the stop switch or the wire are making contact when you turn it on the "bad" side.

26LCS going back together.







Carburetor in the bucking position.



Carburetor in the felling position.



Mark

 

[fossil]

View attachment 1156496View attachment 1156497
Ive been having this one drive me crazy?, Super XL925, found a slight leak around the new 6120 PTO seal so I replaced it with a 6119 seal , has all new seals lines and gaskets. Non governed carburetor.
Repressurized the crank case and it'll hold 14lbs all day. However when I run it and flip it side to side it dies on one side and not the other? Like an air leak. I might just be missing something stupid, but it doesn't make sense.

A bit hard to tell from the pic but has the seal lip turned out?
Happens sometimes when putting it over the step on the crankshaft?

Does the saw hold vacuum?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

A bit hard to tell from the pic but has the seal lip turned out?
Happens sometimes when putting it over the step on the crankshaft?

Does the saw hold vacuum?

Its a double lip now ,6119 .
I appreciate the suggestions and I put the original hs151 back on it which fixed the problem? Which I think is weird? Why a non governed carburetor would affect tune by tilting left to right is odd?
It did cut veey well and would 4stroke out of the cut as long as it was in a bucking position.

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I got this project XL-123 from Steve, @svk. It was obviously a well liked saw as it saw some use. I replaced what was needed & have a good running example from that series.

 

[svk]

I got this project XL-123 from Steve, @svk. It was obviously a well liked saw as it saw some use. I replaced what was needed & have a good running example from that series.
View attachment 1159258View attachment 1159259

Amazing job!

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

Amazing job!

Thank you