While doing the pressure and vac tests did you rotate the crankshaft?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Yes.
The check valve for high speed operation is not verified by pressure or vacuum testing. As high speed vacuum pulls through the carb it opens and closes. Yoi can stick a piece of new hose in the check valve port and blow a suck to verify operation.
Usually if the saw is dying when tilted foward or bar down its because of fuel puddling in the intake or reed cage, you could have a reed worn out or misaligned.
Its a PITA but if 2 or 3 symptoms are going on sometimes nailing them down is difficult.
I knew that the check valve isn't verified by pressure/vac testing, but since the symptoms were carb specific I thought maybe that was the cause. Regardless I tested the valve before I reassembled the carb and it passed.
Do you have another known good carb that you can put on to see if it's actually the current carb that's causing your problem(s)?
I do not
altatim
ArboristSite Operative
Does anybody have a good idea what a 35SL in good condition is worth? I checked Ebay and other sources but they aren't exactly common and didn't get a good reference to value other than the comparable Homelite 360. I recently picked up one (the canadian 360 with a chain brake) and it was running when I got it so I prepped it for storage. Its been used but in pretty decent shape, not worn out at all! I am not really interested in keeping it but I thought that some of the US collectors might be interested. Paint is kinda worn in a few spots but the fuel lines are still soft and even the rubber around the tuning screws is soft!
That pump diaphragm looks like it's defective. There are lots or pirate China kits that are in copied OEM packaging.
Considering all the checks you've done you should pull the main nozzle check valve and see if it's working properly. If you stick a tube on the discharge end it should close on vacuum and flow on pressure.
Just use suck and blow with your mouth. Too much pressure or vacuum will damage the valve.
Assuming the carb is a C2-20-02 you don't use the "retainer, pump diaphragm" on that model.
I bought the kit on eBay, it was labeled as genuine by the seller, came in Zama packaging, and labeled made in China. I guess I learned my lesson. Can anyone suggest a source for truly genuine Zama RB-15 kits?
The check valve was tested when I originally removed the carb to check it out. It tested fine with the suck/blow.
You are correct, it's the C2-20-02.
What's frustrating is that all the symptoms are pointing me to a vacuum leak, except the actual diagnostics are telling me otherwise. What are the odds there is a leak that a pressure/vac test doesn't pick up?
Since Stihl owns Zama you might try a Stihl Dealer. I suspect they are expensive but at least you should get an OEM kit if they carry RB-15 kits..
All I can suggest beyond what you have done, is to slowly turn the flywheel over a few times under vacuum and pressure and see if a leak turns up. and... Try another carb if you have one.
When I pressure and vac tested I turned the flywheel to confirm it held vac. It did.
I'll try a Stihl dealer.
You want to try a Walbro? I think I probably have one or 2 of those. If it doesn't work out you can just ship it back.
That's gracious of you to offer. SDC-87 if I recall correctly. If it's not too much of a hardship for you, I'll take you up on the offer. I'll pm you.
altatim
ArboristSite Operative
I said I wouldn't but I did lol. One more for the bench (when i get to it). A decent looking VI-130 that is all there. As far as I can tell it should be a good runner, but maybe has a few marks on the cylinder from carbon, Ill have to get more into it to know. Saw has spark, 185+psi compression, but the fuel lines and everything rubber is hard as rocks, so probably needs crank seals and a few other bits. This only set me back $35, so it was hard not to grab 
Excited to try to run this saw, I know the internet likes them so I'll see what its all about. 
Excited to try to run this saw, I know the internet likes them so I'll see what its all about. 
I decided we should clean up this 150 today, very interesting the way these saws were put together. I did not have to open the crankcase but we did clean up the carburetor and got the ignition working, runs on prime...
It is now in the display.
Mark
It is now in the display.
Mark
My 3 least favorite Homelite saws - 1)150,2)330,3)360.The 150 to me is the ugliest saw I've ever seen with that weird looking rear handle,& it's the worst saw to work on IMO.The 330is have the worst oiling system & good luck to get one that does work.The 360s are just a giant PITA to work on with their high rate of failure on the intake boots (same with the 330s).
Since I have several of the McCulloch 330/340 type saws in the display, I wanted the 150 just to prove that McCulloch wasn't the only one to produce an ugly duckling...
That said, the ergonomics of the 330/340 models is pretty good, it's just that large rear handle looks so bad.
I did not attempt to work on the oiler for the 150 since it was only going into the display, but I found the carburetor and linkages easier to deal with than some of the 300 Series McCulloch saws I've dealt with. Having the carburetor basically mounted to the housing, and mating up with the engine when you slide it into the housing is a different way of addressing the issue. I would expect that many of the 150 saws were left to rot when they developed a carburetor issue since you have to pull the entire engine out of the housing to even see the carburetor still down in there deep.
Mark
That said, the ergonomics of the 330/340 models is pretty good, it's just that large rear handle looks so bad.
I did not attempt to work on the oiler for the 150 since it was only going into the display, but I found the carburetor and linkages easier to deal with than some of the 300 Series McCulloch saws I've dealt with. Having the carburetor basically mounted to the housing, and mating up with the engine when you slide it into the housing is a different way of addressing the issue. I would expect that many of the 150 saws were left to rot when they developed a carburetor issue since you have to pull the entire engine out of the housing to even see the carburetor still down in there deep.
Mark
I have a 200 Classic on the bench in need of a fuel cap...if you are not familiar with this model the fuel cap has a primer built in.
Is there any sort of work-around for the fuel cap, or should I just plug the line and pull the starter a few more times?
Does anyone have a good IPL that shows how the primer is connected to the carburetor? I will assume the line for the primer is supposed to be long enough that is also serves as a tether?
Any insights will be appreciated.
I found this photo on eBay.
Mark
Is there any sort of work-around for the fuel cap, or should I just plug the line and pull the starter a few more times?
Does anyone have a good IPL that shows how the primer is connected to the carburetor? I will assume the line for the primer is supposed to be long enough that is also serves as a tether?
Any insights will be appreciated.
I found this photo on eBay.
Mark
Mark,I believe that I have a 200 Classic that I bought about a yr.ago & haven't touched it yet.I also believe that the 180 Classic is almost identical & I have that saw pulled apart.I'll take a look over the weekend to see what's what.
There was a guy on eBay who was making the fuel caps with the primer in it for around $20.LRB has them too,but more expensive.
Edit:I just looked on Leon's Chainsaw Part & Repair & found an IPL that covers the 180,192,200,Super2,& Little Red.I know I have a 190 that I worked on last yr.& it's a little different.
Try this link,it's specific to the 200.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre.../39792537/homelite_200_chainsaw_ipl_18548.pdf
There was a guy on eBay who was making the fuel caps with the primer in it for around $20.LRB has them too,but more expensive.
Edit:I just looked on Leon's Chainsaw Part & Repair & found an IPL that covers the 180,192,200,Super2,& Little Red.I know I have a 190 that I worked on last yr.& it's a little different.
Try this link,it's specific to the 200.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre.../39792537/homelite_200_chainsaw_ipl_18548.pdf
Thanks for that information Ed. After looking at the fuel caps on eBay I was reminded that I have a few of these primers on hand:
I believe I will be able to add one to the fuel cap from another saw and solve that riddle.
The same guy let me this:
I will clean it up and study the routing of the lines and see if I can figure out what is going on. The throttle rod looks like it works on one of these later versions of the XL type saws. The only time I've seen anything similar with the oiler was a Cox saw that had an impulse type pump built right into the carburetor.
Mark
I believe I will be able to add one to the fuel cap from another saw and solve that riddle.
The same guy let me this:
I will clean it up and study the routing of the lines and see if I can figure out what is going on. The throttle rod looks like it works on one of these later versions of the XL type saws. The only time I've seen anything similar with the oiler was a Cox saw that had an impulse type pump built right into the carburetor.
Mark
