Homelite Chainsaws

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The fuel line is simple - only one to deal with.Does the 200 Classic have the adjustable oiler knob on the clutch side? (I haven't looked at my saw yet).The oil lines can be a bit tricky.Just remember that the line with the oil pick up on it goes to the bar pad.The line with the duck bill in the tank goes either to the carb or the port on the engine (depends on which system it has).If the lines are reversed you'll have a great mosquito fogger.
 
Well Mark,neither the 180 Classic,nor the 200 Classic I have has the primer bulb on the fuel cap.I do remember the Little Red I have has one though.I'll see about hunting it up tomorrow.
 
I decided we should clean up this 150 today, very interesting the way these saws were put together. I did not have to open the crankcase but we did clean up the carburetor and got the ignition working, runs on prime...

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It is now in the display.

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Mark
I have not been on here in years, I like your display, are you a business or hobbiest?

and for what its worth,
I love the 150's, they come apart easy as you found out the trick. always run. fit any where on a snow machine and are pretty light for the size and power
 
Does anybody have a good idea what a 35SL in good condition is worth? I checked Ebay and other sources but they aren't exactly common and didn't get a good reference to value other than the comparable Homelite 360. I recently picked up one (the canadian 360 with a chain brake) and it was running when I got it so I prepped it for storage. Its been used but in pretty decent shape, not worn out at all! I am not really interested in keeping it but I thought that some of the US collectors might be interested. Paint is kinda worn in a few spots but the fuel lines are still soft and even the rubber around the tuning screws is soft!View attachment 1163163
neat looking saw, was not aware of that model wonder if it was a consumer version of the 50 series. 450, 550,650, 750
 
I went through this 200 Classic, way too much time and effort for what it is, but ended up with new crankcase seals, PTO side bearing, fuel & oil lines, carburetor kit, clutch bearing, and a few other miscellaneous bits. I did away with the primer (in the fuel cap...) and the saw still starts pretty easily.

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The SEZ only needed a good cleaning and a carburetor kit.

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This customer also had a plastic "Ranger" model that he really wanted to get going, but <100 PSI so I didn't put any time into it.

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Mark
 
Thanks for that Poge, made me chuckle...

I'm sure the guy who did that thought he was very creative in his solution.

The main problem with any of those XL/Super2/200 type saws is the fact that you have to pull the engine out to perform any kind of maintenance including servicing the air filter or replacing the clutch drum. While they are easy enough to work on (the 200 saws require you to remove the stop switch before the engine will slide out) many guys see that as too much work and either set them aside or come up with an alternative response.

I found another 200 in the attic this week with the primer bulb located where the oil flow knob is on the one that I worked on this week. I suppose I will have to bring that one down and clean it up for the display, it looks to be in pretty good cosmetic condition.

I also saw a couple of 330's up there, I will have to pick the best one and get it cleaned up for the display as well.

Mark
 
Mark,
Do you have a XL-925 in the museum? I have a very clean early 80's one,plus its predecessor the 1970-71 XL-924W west coast version with same 5 cube/82 cc displacement.Both great saws with tons of power & pretty much bulletproof,fun to use on the medium sized/bigger stuff.

But most of the time I prefer using my PM800/850 and occasionally the SP81 with same displacement as the Homies.They seem to have a bit more RPM's,powerhead weight is pretty much the same I've discovered
 
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