Homelite Super 2 Primer Bulb Repair (pics)

[Ayatollah]

The short of it is, they don't make this part anymore, and nobody does, so it's either plug off the line, sell off the saw for parts, or improvise. The following is my improv:
A side note for all you with oiler problems with this saw. The primer bulb cap has a little duckbill valve in there that could easily slip out if your bulb has been bad for awhile. This could cause the oiler to function intermittently or not at all. That whole oiler system is very pressure sensitive



Insert small wide screwdriver between threaded cap and top cap below the old bulb. Go around it a little at a time to weaken in evenly, You'll have to hope for the best though, as it is plastic

The little slightly domed thing in the center is actually a duckbill valve in the other side

Buy a replacement bulb of similar size. Make sure the lip isn't too thick, and the circumference the same

I put a very thin bead of form-a-gasket on the bulb flange bottom before seating it back on the threaded cap top

Mix up your favorite epoxy and apply an adequate bead around the area shown so it gets an even layer all the way around, but not so much it gets on the bulb. (you never know whether the epoxy will eat the bulb plastic or not, so it's best to avoid it).

After the epoxy is laid, place the top ring back over the bulb and seat down to contact. Try not to smear the epoxy

Next, you'll have to improvise some materials to help you clamp the parts together while they dry, but you have to avoid smashing the little tip for the primer line and the bulb. I used some plastic pipe fittings, 1/2" coupling and 1/2" Tee.

Next, clamp the thing together snug, but not so much that you risk cracking the plastic.

After it is clamped, use the remaining epoxy to touch around the entire area between the threaded cap top, and the plastic ring bottom. Make for a good seal, but don't have so much that it lumps all over.

Last thing is to wait until the epoxy has dried to it's specifications. Read the instructions on your epoxy

Hope for the best now

 

[95custmz]

Excellent post. I've been wanting to replace my primer bulb but wasn't sure how I was going to accomplish this. A leaking fuel cap always sucks. LOL

 

[hotshot]

Oiler bulb? I've only seen the purger bulbs used on gas tanks. There are two nipples on the tank side, one
has a hose that goes to the carb's metering chamber (IN) , the other nip has nothing and dumps fuel straight back
to the gas tank (OUT).

Can you please draw the oiler circuit & oiler hose routing out on a piece of paper & post it? Or post the UT number
from the saw label?

 

[JunkSaw]

Where can you get the primer bulb? Do you have a part number ? The closest I can find is a Zama 0057030 but the bottom is to thick.

 

[1Alpha1]

Cool......everything you always wanted to know about primer bulbs, but were afraid to ask.

 

[Ayatollah]

I don't have the part number. The shop only had one, so that's what I used.

 

[Ayatollah]

Oiler bulb? I've only seen the purger bulbs used on gas tanks. There are two nipples on the tank side, one
has a hose that goes to the carb's metering chamber (IN) , the other nip has nothing and dumps fuel straight back
to the gas tank (OUT).

Can you please draw the oiler circuit & oiler hose routing out on a piece of paper & post it? Or post the UT number
from the saw label?

I think it is a 10697. I still have the manual here somewhere. There isn't an oiler bulb, but there probably should have been. This is the Primer bulb. it gets a shot of gas directly into the carb for cold starting. When the primer bulb leaks, it suck air and then the oiler doesn't work

 

[rmh3481]

Great thread Ayatollah.

Ive repaired these a little differently using a screw mounted purge bulb because the cap is NLA. This way uses the flat top caps for the oil and gas tanks. The screw down style bulb has ears on the edges of its housing that will accept a small sheet metal screw for mounting. Check the attachment *ut-10695 for hose routing, reference page 7.

 

[No face 243]

Thanks for that picture of how to take apart the primer bulb gas cap, mine cracked right after I did a nice cleaning of the saw, go figure. Anyway if that is split open is that going to effect the vacuum the fuel line needs and stop the saw from running? It will fire when I use the primer then it dies and I'm thinking it's just loosing the vacuum, can anyone confirm or deny that thought please?

 

[hotshot]

Yes, it will suck air 'backwards' into the carb's metering chamber, leaning out the carb if it's busted.

Just plug the line that goes to the carb from the purger bulb with a golf tee or a dowel until you can rebuild or replace the purger.

The purger, or primer as you're calling it, has nothing to do with the choke lever for starting. All it does is recycle fresh fuel from the tank through the carb to replace stale fuel & air if the saw has set around idle for three months...so use the half choked lever position until the little saw warms up.

 

[No face 243]

Awesome thanks for the help, number 1 olace to go for saw questions

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I fix them a little differently also. First I see how far I can throw that cap, then I put a regular cap on it after also discarding all those extra hoses. Put a regular duckbill valve in the side of the gas tank up at the top and plug off any openings where the hoses came off. Not trying to be a wise guy but Homelite put a bunch of stuff on their later saws that really wasn't needed..As long as these saws have a choke they sure don't need a primer bulb. Most of these saws also benefit from a new air filter..

 

[ANewSawyer]

I have a Super 2 I need to redo. I put a screw in the line from the carb. I will pull it apart eventually and fix it up proper. Will probably need a carb kit. And maybe seals.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Might have some of those caps. I'll check tomorrow.