Homelite xl-76

[casey v]

Hi All,

I was given an xl-76 (58cc for the Canadian market) that is in pretty good shape. I am not a small motor mechanic by any means. The saw is in good shape with lots of compression but no spark (used new plug to test). What would you do next to diagnose the electrical system problem? Where should I start? Can you guys walk me through what I should do? Attached are some photos of the saw. I would really like to get the saw running.

Thanks Mike

 

[retoocs555]

Clean the points

 

[casey v]

Thanks, I will clean the points. Let you know how that works out.

Mike

 

[casey v]

Ok, I pulled the flywheel and the points seemed to have some corrosion on their contact surfaces. Using very fine sandpaper, I lightly pulled the paper through the points to clean up the surfaces. I also reset the points to .015 which was cast into the motor. I also noticed that the little lead from the condenser to the coil has had the insulation rubbed off from the flywheel rim. I will replace this wire with new and hopefully the saw will have fire. I will keep you posted.

Thanks Mike

 

[retoocs555]

Ok, I pulled the flywheel and the points seemed to have some corrosion on their contact surfaces. Using very fine sandpaper, I lightly pulled the paper through the points to clean up the surfaces. I also reset the points to .015 which was cast into the motor. I also noticed that the little lead from the condenser to the coil has had the insulation rubbed off from the flywheel rim. I will replace this wire with new and hopefully the saw will have fire. I will keep you posted.

Thanks Mike

Lets hope she fires up. Good luck

 

[lesorubcheek]

Hi Mike,
Nice looking saw. If after cleaning the points and insulating the capacitor lead you still don't have a spark, you might look at the kill switch. Sometimes they will short to ground. Quickest way to test is to simply pull the lead from the switch (its in the open position for running) and make sure its not touching ground. Another thing is to make sure the gap is correct between the flywheel and the coil. Look for any shorts or breaks in leads. If after all of this there's still no spark you'll need to start checking components. A meter that checks resistance and capacitance is very handy.

Hopefully cleaning you points and fixing the cap lead will get you going. Again, very nice looking saw!

Dan

 

[casey v]

Thanks for all the helpful advice. Attached is a photo of the bare wire. I am hoping this is the problem.

Mike

 

[Mike mandry]

While you are in there, I would suggest putting in an Atom, or Nova ignition module that will eliminate the points & condenser.

I have one on my Xl-102 & it works great.

They are not very expensive, should be under $20

 

[casey v]

Hi Mike,

Where did you mount the module? Behind the flywheel or elsewhere?

Mike

 

[casey v]

OK, I cleaned and set the points, repaired the damaged lead and I now have a blue spark. The electrical system is fine. The saw actually started for a few seconds on the first pull with a few drops of mix down the carb throat.

The saw had old gas in it that smelt weird. I emptied the tank of a brownish fuel. The inside of the tank is covered with a brown slimy gunk. How can I clean out the tank? I imagime that I will probably need to replace the fuel lines and rebuild the carb.

Thanks Mike

 

[retoocs555]

OK, I cleaned and set the points, repaired the damaged lead and I now have a blue spark. The electrical system is fine. The saw actually started for a few seconds on the first pull with a few drops of mix down the carb throat.

The saw had old gas in it that smelt weird. I emptied the tank of a brownish fuel. The inside of the tank is covered with a brown slimy gunk. How can I clean out the tank? I imagime that I will probably need to replace the fuel lines and rebuild the carb.

Thanks Mike

Nice! Good job on the ignition. You actually motivated me to do the points on a remington I have here, very satisfying. It's so easy to service a points system I don't see why everybody wants to retrofit to solid state ignitions.

There's a lot of methods for cleaning a tank. Usually what I do is put some clean gas in the tank, shake vigorouslly, drain the gas into my waste bucket. Repeat process until the gas comming out is as clean as when it goes in or you're satisfied with how the inside of the tank looks. Just for kicks at that point I would try firing up your saw again. If she doesn't go it would be time for new carb kit, fuel line and filter. What type of carb does that saw have?

 

[casey v]

Hi Scott,

The carb is a Tillotson HS125a. I cleaned the tank with a plastic bristled bottle brush and some clean mix. Worked great. I will put a new filter on and see what happens. I may get lucky.

I'll keep you posted.

Mike

 

[casey v]

It's alive!!!! It took priming the carb three times before it started drawing fuel on its own from the tank, but it idled nicely and also nicely at WOT. the fuel line needs replacing, it was dripping fuel. Looks straight forward. Any recommendations on fuel line type and also inexpensive fuel filters?

Thanks Mike

 

[lesorubcheek]

Mike,
I used some tygon fuel line with grommets at the tank and air chamber on my XL-123. This works great. Someone posted resently that they were able to locate a NOS fuel line. Search the threads and I'm sure you can find the info.

Dan

 

[retoocs555]

It's alive!!!! It took priming the carb three times before it started drawing fuel on its own from the tank, but it idled nicely and also nicely at WOT. the fuel line needs replacing, it was dripping fuel. Looks straight forward. Any recommendations on fuel line type and also inexpensive fuel filters?

Thanks Mike

Get tygon fuel line. I like that stuff a lot and go through a ton of it! If you can't get some locally I can stick a chunk in an envelope for you.

I use walbro fuel filters, I'm not sure why but I seem to like them.

 

[casey v]

Hi All,

The saw is complete and running well. I am very pleased with the results and throughly enjoyed the process (am looking for the next project), and wish to thank you all for all the information that I have learned from this site. Attached are pics of the finished saw.

Scott, I asked the local saw shop for tygon fuel line, and the fellow looked at like I had horns growing out of my head. What I ended up with is a clear yellowish fuel line that went in no problem. What does the tygon stuff look like?

Thanks Mike

 

[casey v]

Forgot the pictures. The saw starts from cold with two pulls and from warm with one. Twenty inch hardnose bar, 3/8 full house chipper chain with about 75% left. Both automatic and manual oilers work. The only thing missing from this saw is the original hand guard.

Mike

 

[retoocs555]

Forgot the pictures. The saw starts from cold with two pulls and from warm with one. Twenty inch hardnose bar, 3/8 full house chipper chain with about 75% left. Both automatic and manual oilers work. The only thing missing from this saw is the original hand guard.

Mike

Looks great.

Tygon is more of a yellow color. It lasts longer and is easier to work with. Doesn't get as brittle over time as regular plastic.

 

[casey v]

Hi all,

Ran three tanks of fuel through the saw this weekend. The saw ran great and I am impressed with the "grunt power" this saw has. I cut about 20 stumps of fir and alder down to ground level for the neighbor. On one of the last stumps, the clutch gave out.:bang: The clutch has six shoes with two springs, front and back holding the shoes in place. Three of the shoes had the tab that slides into the spider shear off. Anyone know the parts number for these shoes and springs? Anyone have these parts?

Thanks Mike