homelite xl76

[starter]

Hey y'all,

Newbie question, please forgive me.

I've got an xl76 (vintage unknown) that ran great but now will run for only 5-10 minutes before dying and not starting until much later... after beers... anyway: any ideas? When it runs it runs fine, when it dies it dies suddenly. I'll be changing the plug tonight.

Be gentle :newbie:

 

[romeo]

Sounds like a scored cylinder, pull the muffler and see what the piston looks like, could also be a coil problem. Here is some info on your saw courtesy of Mike Acreshttp://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/10b075e11d3e155188256c26004e98d3?OpenDocument

 

[starter]

Thanks romeo,

I'll have a look inside tonight.

 

[habanero]

My bet would be on something in the electrical system. Probably works fine until it gets hot, then cuts out. First thing I'd do is run it until it dies, then check the spark. The trick is going to be running down the problem if indeed you don't have spark. The most likely culprit would be the coil, but I've also seen plug wires act like this on car engines, so that might be another place to check.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Both suggestons by Romeo and Habanero are right on. Another (and hopefully since it'll be the cheapest) possibility can be as simple as a clogged vent on the gas cap. If the vent is plugged, as gas is pulled out, a vaccuum will develop and eventually the carb can't pull gas. Quickest test for this is simply to loosen the gas cap after it dies and then see it it restarts.

Dan

 

[ericjeeper]

Lots of good advice.

Now let us know what fixed it. all of the above post are right on track

 

[Hard Knocks]

I have seen a few XL 76's lately with the symptoms that you explain caused by the ignition module failing when hot. You might want to take Habanero's advise and test the saw for spark when it dies.

 

[starter]

I did have gas cap vent problems a while back but remedied by replacing with one from my buddy's wrecked smaller homelite. Everything's been great until now.

I'll check the gas cap vent to be sure but am leaning to the coil/ignition theory myself. I'll run 'er up tomorrow and see what's up when it's hot.

Thanks for the link to the Acres site, good tech info and good browsing.

I will definitely let you all know what I find.

 

[starter]

Imagine my embarassment!

Upon further inspection the coil mounting plate was loose and the gap was tight, almost rubbing the flywheel.

Had a look inside the cylinder through the exhaust and everything looks fine and clean, no scoring. Gas cap vent was good, too.

I set the air gap to about 0.012" (I have no specs) and the saw ran fine... for about 5 minutes... before dying again... no spark. I took out the coil and lost the plug wire end cap in the process. :censored:

Anyone know where I can get a new module for the old girl? After owning the saw for about eight years and browsing this forum I feel I owe it to her. All I have for ID is the XL-76 and the number 67124-A on the base of the cylinder.

On another note I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a new saw as I have to get some wood put up before the snow flies. I've been looking at a Stihl MS290 that's on a promo right now. It looks comparable to the size/power of the 76. Any suggestions/comments? I use the saw to fell and buck about 2-6 cords a year.

 

[Hard Knocks]

You can get a new module from Banta Saw located in Warkworth Ontario Canada www.bantasaw.com
Their part #600-957 is an OEM module for $79.12 CDN.
You can order online or call them at (705) 924-2645

 

[starter]

Wow, you made that easy. I thought it would be tougher to find parts, maybe a project saw. Thanks.

 

[Hard Knocks]

Banta has got a lot of good parts for older non production saws and more. Check out their web site. Your module is listed under "chainsaw parts OEM"

 

[starter]

Thanks Hardknocks! I checked Banta out last night and was so excited that I put in an order before I realised they also had drive sprockets.

They are excellent to deal with and are holding the order until I get them the dimensions from my old sprocket. Any tricks to getting the old sprocket off?

Here's a funny one. After checking for the plug wire end on the garage floor, work benches, sweeping the floor with a magnet, cleaning the workbenches, crawling around on my hands and knees, etc. for about an hour last night I found it this morning... in the house... must have stuck to my clothes, and I even shook them out in the garage earlier. No biggie, just Murphy poking around... making life interesting.

I think you guys have infected me... I like it.

Later

 

[habanero]

...Any tricks to getting the old sprocket off?

No real trick, to getting the sprocket off-assuming the XL-76 is like other old Homies. I took a piece of flat bar stock about 12" or so long, drilled two holes that match the holes on the clutch, and thread two screws in to attach the bar stock to the clutch. Then you just need to make sure the crank can't turn and remember the clutch is left-hand threaded and spin it right off. A lot of ways to make sure the crank can't turn, but probably one of the safer suggestions I've heard is to use a length of rope folded up and shoved in on top of the piston (per a forum member here, but I don't remember who or I'd give credit).

 

[Hard Knocks]

Thanks Hardknocks! I checked Banta out last night and was so excited that I put in an order before I realised they also had drive sprockets.

They are excellent to deal with and are holding the order until I get them the dimensions from my old sprocket. Any tricks to getting the old sprocket off?

Here's a funny one. After checking for the plug wire end on the garage floor, work benches, sweeping the floor with a magnet, cleaning the workbenches, crawling around on my hands and knees, etc. for about an hour last night I found it this morning... in the house... must have stuck to my clothes, and I even shook them out in the garage earlier. No biggie, just Murphy poking around... making life interesting.

I think you guys have infected me... I like it.

Later

Glad to help. Just let us know how it works when you are done!

 

[starter]

Well I dug into it last night again to get sprocket sizing. Many thanks Habanero for the tip on removal, worked slick, just like you said. I had to put an offset bend in the flat bar to clear the handle and muffler. The rope trick to stop the crank is some good simple mechanics, just like I like it, so thanks to whoever provided...

While in there I noted there is an automatic oiler just like Mike Acres site info said. I didn't believe it when I read it because the saw has never auto oiled, it'll run bone dry if you let it. Anyway I took it apart and cleaned it up but it didn't look that bad, hopefully something got cleaned out and now it will work (save my thumb, please).

Sprocket and module now ordered and all I can do is hold my saw until they get here, whispering words of comfort to her, "you'll cut again", "it'll be alright", "yes I'll open up your exhaust if you want, baby" etc.

On a little more sane note: Anyone know the "correct" gap for the module armature? I set it to ~0.012 last time and worked but I'd like to know what actual practices are.

Later.

 

[Hard Knocks]

I usually set them to .010". We keep a few of our competitors nice laminated business cards in our boxes for the job. They measure exactly .010", are easy to use and it is nice to know that our competitors cards are good for something

 

[habanero]

...While in there I noted there is an automatic oiler just like Mike Acres site info said. I didn't believe it when I read it because the saw has never auto oiled, it'll run bone dry if you let it. Anyway I took it apart and cleaned it up but it didn't look that bad, hopefully something got cleaned out and now it will work (save my thumb, please)...

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the oiler not working. An old saw mechanic told me several years back that the first Homelite auto oilers never worked all that well and most don't last very long if they do work. At the time we were talking about the oiler on my Super EZ, but I imagine it is about the same as your 76. I've had a total of three Super EZ's and only one has had a working oiler (and I sold it-go figure).

The old guy never did say if he knew, or had a theory, why those oilers were so unreliable, but as long as they have a manual backup I don't let it bother me much.

 

[starter]

I like your style, hardknocks, reduce, reuse recycle, and at the expense of you comp

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the oiler not working. An old saw mechanic told me several years back that the first Homelite auto oilers never worked all that well and most don't last very long if they do work. At the time we were talking about the oiler on my Super EZ, but I imagine it is about the same as your 76. I've had a total of three Super EZ's and only one has had a working oiler (and I sold it-go figure).

The old guy never did say if he knew, or had a theory, why those oilers were so unreliable, but as long as they have a manual backup I don't let it bother me much.

Thanks, I'm not worried either as the manual oiler works just fine.

Just a few days to part, just a few days to parts!!!

 

[starter]

It's alive, it's alive...

Well, power head is functional again, new module did the trick! I didn't buy new chain yet so I haven't cut any wood yet. For what it's worth (I've posted and read about muffler mods not giving much more output on this saw) I will time a few cuts and then remove the baffle plate to see if there is a difference. I just want to tinker...

The auto oiler is... not. Bone dry at idle or higher RPM, after all 10 minutes of mycleaning it up but that manual oiler spits great so who cares...

Thanks to all who provided input. You :rockn: !!!!

Later.