Homelite XP project. lots of pictures (Cutting video)

[Red97]

NAPA sells Motoseal which is a good product for sealing engines, gas tanks, etc. It's number is: 29132 and is applied kinda like contact cement. Not all NAPA stores has it but Ebay does.

I picked up a jug of that. It seems to work pretty well.

Really like these kind of threads. Can't ever get enough good tuning info. Nice job on your rebuild, new saws are nice, but a person gets a lot more satisfaction refurbishing an oldie. Sourceing parts, making parts, revitalizing parts, retrofitting parts, is all worth the reward.

Thank you, It is very satisfying after you finally get them running right. It is a lot easier for me to spend $10-50 at a time on parts, then to drop $1000 on a new saw.

 

[weimedog]

I love these type of threads & video's. Thanks for both putting in the time to build the saw & build this thread. One thing I have done with my two old XP homelites (XP1000 & XP1020A) is build bar adapters out of nuts and adapt Stihl mount bars. Also with rim type sprockets you can adapt down to 3/8. I did that and used one for milling after my old 797 went west. (You can see the results in my avatar)

 

[watsonr]

Nice job.... it sounded good at idle and could hear the 4-stroke at speed when you lifted. Check the tune often as conditions change.
You can grind off those teeth if needed, won't hurt a thing. .404 .050 is kind of hard to find. Think about sending it to Shawn Carr and grinding in .063 to make finding chain easier.

Very nice saw!

 

[Red97]

Nice job.... it sounded good at idle and could hear the 4-stroke at speed when you lifted. Check the tune often as conditions change.
You can grind off those teeth if needed, won't hurt a thing. .404 .050 is kind of hard to find. Think about sending it to Shawn Carr and grinding in .063 to make finding chain easier.

Very nice saw!

Thank you, you mean send the bar out and get the groove opened up? I think the modifications to this saw made the power band very narrow, compared to my other 1020. But when you are in the power band it is a mean saw.

 

[watsonr]

Yes, would be easy to do. Anybody with a bar shop could also do it.

 

[Red97]

I'm thinking that the mods done to this saw caused a narrow power band. Cuts like crazy when you keep it in the sweet spot, get out a little bit falls on its face. Too much timing? I have heard the nova chip advances timing? I ran my other 1020 auto with a 8 tooth sprocket same 40" b/c and no matter what it just keeps chugging along. A little slower than the restored saw
even with the 8 tooth, but It never stops sawing This is my 1020 auto idling.



Any thoughts?
Thank you for all the help so far, It would be in a box under the bench without the help of the forum.

 

[Red97]

A couple video's from the gtg running a new off the roll stihl full chisel full comp. .404x9 rim and 21" bar. finally got to tach the beast. 11k no load 6k in the cut.






This is my other 1020 running .404x8 40" bar tached this bad boy at 8k no load and 7k in the cut.


I cannot figure out why one drops 5k under load and the other only drops 1k?

Enjoy

 

[watsonr]

make sure everything is tight. I didn't know they would turn 11k... 8-9k unloaded yes, 11k. You do anything to the reads or porting of the saw? Flywheel key still in-tact? Points set correctly?

 

[Red97]

make sure everything is tight. I didn't know they would turn 11k... 8-9k unloaded yes, 11k. You do anything to the reads or porting of the saw? Flywheel key still in-tact? Points set correctly?

It has carbon fiber reeds. I cleaned and opened up the reed cage, and smoothed the intake elbow, I smoothed all the casting off of the transfers, all new bearings.

It has an ignition chip installed, That is why I am thinking the timing is advanced a little bit much. In the cookie vids I was pushing as hard as I could.

I just don't understand why it drops 5k in the cut. The shiny 1020 is like an nascar, and the other 1020 is like a mack truck! I am targeting A souped up cummins.

 

[watsonr]

Timing advanced and why it sounds like its skipping until you push down. In my original reply at 8:06 I had the timing sounded advanced and then erased it, but you saying the chip is in, confirms what I heard.

Retard the flywheel and that should put the timing back near stock and should drop the RPM unloaded. It don't take much. You could remove the key completely, just be sure the tapered shaft is clean on both the flywheel and the crank, the taper holds more than you would think, keyway is just there to line it up.

The mods you did may increase the RPM by a couple hundred at best.... the chip is your problem.

 

[Red97]

Timing advanced and why it sounds like its skipping until you push down. In my original reply at 8:06 I had the timing sounded advanced and then erased it, but you saying the chip is in, confirms what I heard.

Retard the flywheel and that should put the timing back near stock and should drop the RPM unloaded. It don't take much. You could remove the key completely, just be sure the tapered shaft is clean on both the flywheel and the crank, the taper holds more than you would think, keyway is just there to line it up.

Do you think the chip is acting like a revlimiter, and not 4 stroking? to retard the timing looking at the flywheel rotate it 1/4 key clockwise?
The mods you did may increase the RPM by a couple hundred at best.... the chip is your problem.

 

[watsonr]

I can hear it 4-stroking in the video. Rotate clockwise to retard timing, 1/4 would be a good place to start.

 

[Red97]

Thank you, do you know what the symptoms of too little timing are?

 

[watsonr]

no RPM, pig rich.

 

[Red97]

Well I turned the timing back about 1/2 key width, and all I can say is wow. still seems like it is running a lot of rpm but the torque is way up. Here is a little tease,





ran some bar deep noodle cuts in some hard wood, I could lean on it hard with the 404x9 this puppy has tons of torque.

Thank you all for the help