copedirector
ArboristSite Lurker
I was wondering if anyone has ever made there own chainsaw mill? I'm looking at building one but dont have access to a welder. The building of one does'nt concern me much as I've been a machinest for 20+ years.
homemade mill building
- Thread starter copedirector
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Lot's of folks here have. Read the sticky at the top of this forum. It was started by one of the best... BobL's signature has links to threads detailing several of his builds...
TSRuff
ArboristSite Member
If you can't weld then take a look at 80/20 (www.8020.net). It is all extruded aluminum and everything screws together with connectors and plates. I am building my new slabbing brackets out of this stuff and it is very easy to work with and reasonably priced for the quality that you get.
I've seen a couple of other members wtih simple mills made out of their products, and I'm working on designing my new mill using this too...
I've seen a couple of other members wtih simple mills made out of their products, and I'm working on designing my new mill using this too...
TSRuff
ArboristSite Member
Forgot to mention that they also have plug-ins and libraries for AutoCAD if you have access and a couple of other companies have built rudimentary libraries for SketchUp (free from Google) as well. A couple of Google searches will get you what you need, but 3D Content Central is also a resource (www.3dcontentcentral.com).
I'm a computer nerd and incapable of welding, so this is how I design and build with their products vs. BobL who's amazing wizardry with just going out and fabbing stuff on the fly continues to astound me.
I'm a computer nerd and incapable of welding, so this is how I design and build with their products vs. BobL who's amazing wizardry with just going out and fabbing stuff on the fly continues to astound me.
copedirector
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes i've used 80/20 quite a bit and was thinking about that. Also I can weld I just dont have access to a welder.
Here's a picture of mine,
super simple design, 2 5/16-18 capscrews hold it to the bar making chain change-outs easy.
Since this pic was taken, I drilled through the center of the sprocket nose and added 3" more capacity.
A welder makes it easier to build a mill that is more comfortable to use but is not essential.
As a starter I recommend the use of "bolts through the bar" rather than bar clamps. Using ally extrusion, like TSruff does, where you can helps keep the weight down although weight is not all bad - if you can get your logs up on a slope a heavier mill will self feed easier whereas a lighter one needs to be pushed or winched.
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copedirector
ArboristSite Lurker
I like the idea of using extrusion but I'm not sure I could bring myself to drill a hole in a $100 bar. I do realize it is the better way to go though.
TSRuff
ArboristSite Member
ALL of my bars have two holes through them, even the ones that I may not have ever used for milling. I've never noticed any change in durability of the sprocket noses or the bar overall. The day a new bar comes in it heads directly for the drill press and a couple of carbide bits.
Whether you use extrusion or not, drilling really is the way to go.
A lot of big bars come predrilled with two or more holes in them and like TSruff's bars they when I buy mine they get another through the centre of the bar nose. Oh yeah - and they cost a lot more than $100
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
You could build a simple one out of wood. Unlike BobL's designs it doesn't have to be rocket science.
All you are trying to do is keep the chain at a certain distance from a piece riding on the top of the piece you are cutting. Someone recently posted a picture of one mostly built of wood.
All you are trying to do is keep the chain at a certain distance from a piece riding on the top of the piece you are cutting. Someone recently posted a picture of one mostly built of wood.
copedirector
ArboristSite Lurker
Let me ask this then. How big of a boss does the sprocket ride on? I've never had to change out a sprocket to know. Will it being a replacable sprocket matter?
The central boss is usually riveted in place so provided you stay inside those rivets you will be OK. The biggest holes I use are 5/16" and you could even go a little larger but it would be unnecessary. I have used as small as 1/4" and it works OK
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Bob, I didn't have that bookmarked and it was 3 in the morning.
I alway drill mine with a 3/8" hole. No problems yet.
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great link - full catalog, only 215MB!!
Whether you use extrusion or not, drilling really is the way to go.
A lot of big bars come predrilled with two or more holes in them and like TSruff's bars they when I buy mine they get another through the centre of the bar nose. Oh yeah - and they cost a lot more than $100
Dittto on drilling the bar for mounting per BobL. It is much easier when it comes time to change chains. I'm converting my mini-mill so it will bolt to the frame vs being clamped.
jerry-
copedirector
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a very general question but how long should it take to get through a 20" piece of Maple. Lets say 10' long.
Cdirector,
I did a 20"W on the big end and 18" on the small end of a maple log with my mill and it took less than 3 minutes. My mill has a 134cc motor so it was working pretty easy on a fresh cut log.
