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046 I'm a former Okie but not familiar with 'berryman's chemtool.' Do you get it in an auto parts store?
 
Al Smith said:
Geez your'e up early.If it's my saw,I just put in what parts are needed.If it's for someone else,I replace them all.
I say the same.
In some very rare cases I could concidder a complete rebuild, but not the collections saws.
 
When I tear into a carb, first thing I do is look for any dirt etc. If the gaskets are in good shape, then I dissasemble the carb and clean out all the passages with Carb cleaner. If the gaskets are stiff/torn, then I'll get a kit and replace the gaskets, diaphrams, needle parts and usually the pump side screen. I never touch the welch plugs. I've had very very little problems since.

Justin
 
2Coilinveins said:
Does anyone put grease or Vaseline on their carb gaskets to keep them from sticking? I do this occasionally rebuilding Holley's and Edelbrock/Carter's, but never even thought of it for small engines until I saw this thread. Anybody?


No.. I never do this. Changes of blocking the tiny ports in the cards is high, and it's not required. The gaskets are designed to go on "dry", and almost never "stick". And who cares if they do - just means you'll use a razor blade every 5 years or so. I wet the gaskets and diaphragms with 2 stroke mix just so I can pressure test the carb before it gets installed - won't typically hold pressure when bone dry.
 
Now working at a Stihl dealer, I know that kit was at Stihl's list price.

The kit can be had from Zama direct for a lot less.

I guess I could get parts from another dealer, but I don't think the store owner would understand.
 
I use all the gaskets the needle and lever, the first one I did I used the plug as well after that time I didn't bother changing the plug.
 
kits

OK, I put in what's needed. Sometimes the whole kit, sometimes diaphragms. Depends on what I find inside. Rust is a no no.


Where do you get original equipment Zama kits? I can get a couple, but not the ones for the trimmers. Also, good sources for the other makes. I use Sunbelt for now, but looking for a better supplier.
 
Try Billious for Zama. They can be slow but they have Zama and many other parts. They can be slow so be patient if you order from them.
"http://billious.com/"
 
On that Berrymans chemtool ,it used to be made in this podunk town I live in,really.It was very popular during the 60's but I haven't seen much of it lately.
Now this Stihl outrageous prices is set by the company,as I understand it,not the dealer.I buy what I must at a dealer and use after market,where I can.
I've used kits from Tillotson,Walbro and Zama,also cheapies from mfg supply.The cheapies usualy get the job done,with few exceptions.
An amusing thing about the generic kits is the amount of gaskets they send with them.I imagine I could rebuild about 40 carbs if I could find the ones that fit the extra parts.
I can only imagine,when I pass from this world,and they have the auction that will last a week.My kids will say,as they find a suitcase sized box of carb parts,now what do you suppose the ole boy was going to do with this. :rolleyes:
 
Fish said:
Let's explore this Vaseline wiping/greasing thing. We may be missing out on something...............


Didn`t you say the llamas get a rash with anything except K-Y? Be careful!

:D
 
I'm not talking about gloping grease onto carb gaskets. If there's enough grease to clog ports, you're using way too much, even on a Holley or an Edelbrock. I'll give it a shot next time I rebuild a small carb and see if it does any good. Don't hold your breath.
 
Al Smith said:
Now this Stihl outrageous prices is set by the company,as I understand it,not the dealer.I buy what I must at a dealer and use after market,where I can.
:

Stihl publishes a "Suggested Retail Price list". Sure they are high prices, like all "MSRP or "Suggested list" prices on everything, but Dealers do not have to sell at these prices. Some charge more for low $$ cost parts, and some charge less for all parts. There is a good solid markup in parts... Be a good (spend a lot) customer and you'd be surprised what discount you may be able to get. If you buy $10 a year of parts, then...
 
If I'm going to spend the time to take a cube apart I'm going to replace everything while I'm in there (except welch plugs) I don't want to see a customer unit come back and for my saws I get carb kits at dealer cost, usually about 10 skins. If a carb won't adjust out on a new unit I order a new carb for it.
 
I'm working on a Remington.
I'm still waiting on carb kit but I had to play anyway.
I took it apart and cleaned it all up. I actually question the need for a new diaphragm, but there is a "hitch in the giddi-up". I put it back together and it was like Christmas. So I begin to go about tuning it. (let her warm up, half tank of gas) Low end was un-eventful, high end was going swimmingly until I released the trigger. It found itself a new idle speed roughly twice what you like.

Then it stalled.
Now it won't start.
I'm lucky to get a pop out of it before it's flooded. By the third pull I have fuel suirting out the exhaust.

I'm tempted to go pull on that spring, the lever is probably stuck from winding her out. The kit will probably be here tomorrow. This is the "Sea-foam test saw", so I'll be sure to pay attention to carb parts. Everything but the plugs goes on.

Remove the old gaskets before cleaning the carb. Cleaning means "You're soaking in it Madge" (from an old Polmolive commercial) What's all this sanding going on for? Avoid sanding if possible regardless of situation.
 
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