How big is too big?

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Well, I appreciate everybody telling me to shut up and work out, but since I did build the entire interior of my house, I'm not afraid of a little effort. I can't help I'm small - I eat like a fat kid at a cake buffet - I just keep busy.

Since I have a GB mill, I have a helper handle already. I guess I can just run my 56" bar with the handle on it. Now I just have to find somebody excited about holding it while I'm crosscutting with ripping chain on a saw with no brake and a twitchy kill switch. I guess I can loan them some safety glasses...

Has anybody really run a saw with a second person on the helper handle, but cutting freehand (not milling)? I figure if the chain snaps, at least I've got the saw to block some of it. The guy on the other end only has a little cast aluminum housing that will probably get cut in half anyway.
 
Has anybody really run a saw with a second person on the helper handle, but cutting freehand (not milling)? I figure if the chain snaps, at least I've got the saw to block some of it. The guy on the other end only has a little cast aluminum housing that will probably get cut in half anyway.

Yep, I have a helper handle for the 72" bar...and it's scary as hell for the guy on the dumb end...usually you just git the saw running up to speed, and gently get the cross-cut started...then get outta the way. The handle is gonna hit the ground anyway at the bottom of the cut (No rocked chain! :msp_wink:), so you stop the chain before the helper picks it for the next cut.

I have never used this setup for felling, only bucking. I wouldn't want to risk twisting the bar and having over 13 feet of .404 chain whipping around...:msp_scared:
 
Biggest saw and bar I ran so far has been an Stihl MS660 with an 42 inch bar pretty heavy do to I'm little guy. But was fun running it, was cutting up a Red Oak that a logging crew forgot to skid out, don't see how they did but made some beautiful slabs.
 
cgarman,
Geez...yer thread got highjacked on the first page...

But seriously, git that chain brake fixed before you run that saw with ANY bar...big saws are capable of some seroius "linear kickback" and deserve some respect.

I have a Husky L65 and L77 that don't have chain brakes, and I use them all the time. I've never experienced a serious kickback, but I'm very careful with them, always try to stay out of line of the bar and a bit to the side, and I try to always be aware of what the tip of the saw is doing and where it is. A few times I've found the rare chain brakes for them on Ebay, but so far no luck winning the auctions. If I'm cutting stuff where the bar is going to be completely buried inside the wood, I use anti-kickback chain. I've not used my 076 much, it's just too cumbersome and the 288xp feels so much better. I'm assuming the linear kickback you write about happens when the top section of chain gets pinched by the log and throws the saw back at the operator. I've got a 42 inch bar for the 076, and plan on using it soon on some giant oak blow-downs. What's the best method to avoid linear kickback, wedging the top of the cut when bucking big trunks?
 
We use a 36" to 50" as a pilot saw to cut the slot for the 72" or 96" bar. Agreed that over 50" bar sag can be an issue. Not a problem with bucking cuts though. Get as wide a belly saw as you can. The chain stays on the bar much better and the extra metal will keep sag from occuring as easy.
 
Have you seen the show Timber Kings? They were using a 13' bar to cut a time line log. 1500 year old Sequoia. That's a long bar
 
I have a 60" Cannon for my 3120 and let me tell ya, it gets heavy. I run a 36" on that one most of the time, a 24" on my 394, and they are just perfect. When I go out a long ways I'll take that big Cannon and a chain for it, just in case. I have used it for cutting stumps.

Once you have the chainbrake fixed, run that with a 36" and keep the big one in the truck just in case only takes a few minutes to change out. Oh, and GB bars are whippy compared to the heavy duty Stihl and Cannon bars.
 
You could make movies with a saw like Snellerized. Just kidin, but if you have work for the big blade go for it. I'm a buck forty four and 36" would probably get most jobs done for me.:chainsaw:
 
Not really related but still somewhat is, but what is the difference between the Stihl MS660 and the MS066? Can the MS066 run big bars like the MS660 or what?
From my experience which is moderate, the 066 and the MS660 are similar. Like the 029 and the MS90, similar but not exact as the 029 had regular caps and the 290 had flippy caps. However the MS280 and the 028 are miles apart.
 
Agreed on the GB bar being whippy. Cannon, General, and even Stihl have a much better bar profile. I do like 36" and under GB bars though. Just too bad they don't fatten up their longer ones.
 
From my experience which is moderate, the 066 and the MS660 are similar. Like the 029 and the MS90, similar but not exact as the 029 had regular caps and the 290 had flippy caps. However the MS280 and the 028 are miles apart.
Thanks, I haven't had much experience with the saws but I've ran them once or twice, but I have a very good buddy who lets me barrow his MS440 all the time so that the only Stihl saw I have lots of time on.
 
I would go with the longest that doesn't become a hassle. I like my 16 inch bars, since they are easy to maneuver and don't weigh enough to become a burden. It is usually enough for the trees in the area. Sometimes, I have to make 2 cuts to get through, but I don't mind.
 
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