How do i use a cutting wedge?

[jed1154]

Lets say i have a tree that has fallen, its a large tree, and i have all the limbs and such off and am ready to start cutting it up. The tree is situated such that it is resting on a branch on one end, and a root ball on the other. in other words, the main trunk forms a 'bridge' if you will.

How do i use a wedge to keep from pinching my saw, and where should i start mu cutting?

 

[logbutcher]

Lets say i have a tree that has fallen, its a large tree, and i have all the limbs and such off and am ready to start cutting it up. The tree is situated such that it is resting on a branch on one end, and a root ball on the other. in other words, the main trunk forms a 'bridge' if you will.
How do i use a wedge to keep from pinching my saw, and where should i start mu cutting?

Here's what we do with blowdowns with an intact root stock or root ball. There's no single recipe for this; you have to think carefully and plan your cuts. First time with this kind of cutting ? Where is the tension of the tree ? Where is compression ? And, when the trunk is free, where is the root stock going to fall ? Some root stocks weigh tons, and fall fast when the trunk frees it.
Yes, wedges ( or sticks ) will do the job to prevent pinching, but you have more important concerns. How large is large ? How much weight will drop when a cut frees part of the trunk ? Have you cut "bottom up" using the top of the bar before ?
Not being a wise a__s here but trying to get you to think it through before tackling this. Search for some diagrams of cuts on a fallen supported tree. Tricky and can be dangerous if you have not done this before.
You'll get better advice here....wait.

 

[ckthorp]

Also, there was a news story posted here recently where a young child was killed because they were playing inside the cavity left by the root ball when the tree trunk was cut off (which caused the root ball to flip back into the hole).

 

[cord arrow]

Tim Ard has a few tips here...not a big tree...but pretty much how I approach it.

I stand back and look at the entire picture...also, I'm watching for any movement that may clue me as to what the tree intends to do...very similar to the way we watch the top of a tree when felling...

 

[cord arrow]

If in fact the tree is large...and binding...you'll need more than creative wedging to ensure success...

I prefer to take the danger out with the first cut...meaning you'll need to assess where and how to make your cut ensuring this monster is now on the ground...hopefully done rolling and pinching.

I rarely cut more than an inch or two on the really big ones, stepping back and having a good long look at what the tree is telling me...watching the furthest most branches...these are my tells...I'll go so far as shutting down the saw and having a listen when taking my wedge from the top...maybe I misjudged my approach and the big girl is splitting already...here I like to leave a hinge just as in felling...I resist the urge to "plow on through". Gives me time to assess what I THINK is going to happen next...If I'm satisfied, and the tree is as well...I'll turn her loose...with an escape route planned.

This may seem like overkill to some...but I've had to get some of these big ones to relax off of supports...you really don't want to make a mistake when you're off the ground...get down...have a look...and a listen...regroup...proceed. You may find yourself on the opposing side of the tree...it may not have agreed with your original approach...

I look at it this way...the tree is already pi$$ed you cut it down...it figures "pay back time"...

 

[cord arrow]

I'm with logbutcher on this one...there is no way in heck we can "talk you through" the grounding of an overly large supported fall...

I made more mistakes than I care to remember...

However, I made my mistakes on small trees under the tutelage of an experienced feller.

Fellows I cut with comment how overly cautious I appear to be...but I've not been injured...nor have they...on my watch.

 

[Stihl Alive]

Tim Ard has a few tips here...not a big tree...but pretty much how I approach it.

I stand back and look at the entire picture...also, I'm watching for any movement that may clue me as to what the tree intends to do...very similar to the way we watch the top of a tree when felling...

why did he make that cut that appeared to "shave" the front side of the pressured limb. right at the end, then he made a small back cut to relieve the pressure. what was the vertical cut for?

 

[jed1154]

hehe...ive been 'thinking' and 'planning' this for about 6 months. When it first fell, it was in the summer,a nd i just cut enough off to get it out of the way of teh drive. Now i have the main trunk. I dont know how 'large' is large, but if i pinch a saw, my 60hp loader won't lift it without bursting the tires, so thats my main concern. When i started cleaning it, i just thought it out, and went slow, and made my cuts REAL slow, so i could sort of 'see' what it was going to do. It did exactly as i thought, but i like the reassurance. Its just that the stress is such that if i cut it from the bottom up in the center of the trunk, the tree would essentially fall leaving it shaped like a V rather than a _ . Obviously, if i cut through the top, it will pinch the saw, and if i cut through the bottom, then there is a very good chance that both pieces will not fall evenly, such that the rootball side will not move much and the other will, essentially pinching the saw inside. Thats not too bug a deal, because i can chain that end and pull it away with the tractor, but id rather just get it right the first time. I dunno, i have a lot of others to clean up first, ill probably just whittle away at it until it gets done.

 

[AT sawyer]

Though not an arborist, I have cleared a great many large blowdowns. I would use an offset cut and begin with the end farthest from the rootball. Assuming top bind, cut compression side first until the kerf begins to close -- watch carefully -- then drive a couple of plastic wedges into the kerf. Then, come in from below cutting toward the top cut, but offsetting the tension side cut 1/2 inch to the side least likely to fall. Also try to determine the off side -- downhill; possible twist from the upper limbs, etc -- and stand opposite to that off side when making your final cut. As you get near meeting the cuts, prepare to pull the saw away. If it doesn't drop, drive the wedges to separate the cut piece from the trunk. Work down to the rootball and be ready to have it stand up on you as you approach stump length.

You don't say how high the supported trunk is. That can make a difference on where you start.

 

[KRS]

I would get it all on the ground and then cut it; no support; use the first cut(s) to get it solid on the ground with some blocking around the sides so it won't roll.

KRS

 

[rick2752]

Since this is the homeowner forum I will pose a homeowner/Hillbilly solution that i used recently. I had a 40in pin oak on the ground already limbed out but I was afraid of binding saw and not being able to move log which was still attached with rootball. I took my 3 ton car jack out and set it up under the log then jacked up a little to get a good size log under to support it so I could work my way back towards the rootball. Initially it was all my jack to do to lift the end of the tree but after I got about 6ft cut off, it lifted it fine.

 

[farmboy53]

I use the wedge to keep the bar from getting pinched. Remember if the wind blows the wedge can fall out, as the tree starts forward out it comes only to have the wind bring the tree back with no wedge. If the tree has a back lean and the wedge falls out as described the saw gets pinched, the hinge breaks and major damage may occur. The wedge is no guarantee. If the tree has a back lean and you attempt to use a wedge to lift, while pounding you can break the hinge.