How much bar oil is enough?

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teacherman

teacherman

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How much oil is a 660 supposed to move? I have one that has not burnt the bar yet, but it only uses a tiny bit of oil. It is hard to see any oil film on the drive links when I pull the chain off the bar. Bar looks dry to me. The sawdust under the bar cover barely has any indication of having any oil in it. I know the EPA has reduced the amount of oil saws can pump, but this is ridiculous! What if I were running a 36" or longer bar?

I think I am using about 1/4 tank of oil per tank of fuel mix.........

Can I put an earlier 066 oil pump on this saw?

How about the Aussie model pump with a 1.15 mm piston stroke?
 
catman963

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I would say, that it sounds like you are not getting enough oil!! I do not know about the 660 specifically - but do they have an adjustable pump? ( I know with my 385xp, if I forget to turn the pump down, when switching from my 32" to my 24" bar - I can see it slinging oil all over the place!! )

Maybe - have you tried cleaning out the oil tank? I've read on here that you can fill it with your mix gas, shake it all about, and dump it out to clean out the tank!?
Just my first thought.... lol :dizzy: Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along to help you out
 
teacherman

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I would think that the oiler in your saw now should drain a tank for a tank. but 1/4 is insufficent!is the screw on wide open? mabe there is some saw dust in the hose.

The saw is five days old. Not enough time for it to get clogged with sawdust, The screw is VERY hard to turn, and has only 1/4 turn of movement. I think the amount of movement is normal, but I have never had one be so difficult to turn. I took it back to the dealer yesterday. Their tech was not in, but the guy at the counter said it was probably OK.

This was with a 30" bar, wonder how dry it would be if I threw a 36 on there?
 
CentaurG2

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“its never enough, until you heart stops beating” ShellShock, New Order . 1986… I think. Anyhoo… I have found that most stihls do not seem to pump as much oil as their husky/dolmar brethren. As long as you use the oil-o-matic chain, you should be fine. Plenty of burn paint on my ms440 bar but I have never seized the chain. If in doubt, bring it back to your dealer for a checkup.
 
056kid

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O.. well then. I experienced the same thing with the 660 we got at work last summer.

It used just a small amount of oil(25''bar was alittle dry) with the screw open. it improved and was normal after mabe 20 tanks i dunno though i cant really remember but i am betting it will improve.
 
sILlogger

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I have a nice 16" ES bar in 3/8 .063 i may put on it. It should keep the groove slick! I will likely try to find a HO oiler for it. I already have started to toast the paint, after a little more than one tank through it.

you shouldn't have to have a 16" bar on it or an HO oiler. the oiler has (like you said) only 1/4 turn of adjustment. if it is only using that much oil somethign is wrong. it really shouldn't matter but what kind of bar oil are you using?
 
teacherman

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you shouldn't have to have a 16" bar on it or an HO oiler. the oiler has (like you said) only 1/4 turn of adjustment. if it is only using that much oil somethign is wrong. it really shouldn't matter but what kind of bar oil are you using?

Only Stihl oil. Maybe it is oiling enough, but it just doesn't seem like it. I will try another tank through it this weekend, ane monitor it closely. I am used to my old 026 which pumps at idle, and slings that stuff all over creation.....
 

BobL

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How much oil is a 660 supposed to move?

Standard oil delivery spec is 10 to 21 mL/min.

With a 0.315L tank that means a full oil tank should last for between 15 and 30 minutes. In practice it's not quite that because the level will drop below the intake before if fully empties. Of course what's more important is that the fuel runs out before the oil. My experience is similar to sILlogger, just over 3/4 of a tank per tank of fuel
 
sILlogger

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the way i look at it is that bar oil is cheap (not really) but if you figure some of my bars are over $100, i want to get all the oil to them that i can get. I always run my oilers at max... then again maybe that is why i go through 75+ gallons of bar oil a year. i would turn your oiler all the way up, make sure all passages including bar groove are clean and run if or a full tank and see where it is at. if it has more than a half tank i would not be satisfied.
 
teacherman

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the way i look at it is that bar oil is cheap (not really) but if you figure some of my bars are over $100, i want to get all the oil to them that i can get. I always run my oilers at max... then again maybe that is why i go through 75+ gallons of bar oil a year. i would turn your oiler all the way up, make sure all passages including bar groove are clean and run if or a full tank and see where it is at. if it has more than a half tank i would not be satisfied.

My thinking exactly!
 
doorstop

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I don't what temperature you work at but sometimes the thick goo just won't
flow at low temps - I cut mine with ATF 30 - 40%. The ATF is not expensive and has EP properties.
 
super3

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I don't what temperature you work at but sometimes the thick goo just won't
flow at low temps - I cut mine with ATF 30 - 40%. The ATF is not expensive and has EP properties.

Shouldn't be too cold where teach is at. I cut last Saturday with summer bar oil and it was bitter in the wind here.Oiled fine.
 
ciscoguy01

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Use a winter grade bar oil for a while... See if that helps dude. I run winter weight year around, little more money, easier on the oiling system, and it NEVER clogs for me. I always used 1 to 1 fuel/bar oil. I've since tried several systems. About 1/3 to 1/2 tank of bar oil is plenty. Been doing that all this winter and haven't had an issue. Probably 40 Cord of firewood and 200 red pines. Ever see a Stihl tree??? hehehehehehe

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