How to get this right.

[B-Edwards]

I am refurbing a cidermill that is over 100 years old. The grandson of the fellow who first had it gave it to me (the grandson is in his 70s). The legs are rotten and appear to be made out of White Oak.I am going to replace all of the wood as it is dry rotted everywhere. I took a White Oak down yesterday and will take the logs to a mill to get them cut for legs for this mill. Question the logs are about 20 inch diameter and I am wondering which way they should be sawn to help with warpage.The legs will be 4x4's.. Also I do not have a kiln and want to ask what/how I should store the logs or what should I do to get them ready to use as far as drying them. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[Backwood]

Quatersawing will usually give wood that is less likely to warp. When drying I would keep it out of direct sunlight.

 

[woodshop]

Quatersawing will usually give wood that is less likely to warp. When drying I would keep it out of direct sunlight.

Agreed... if stability is key, quarter as much of it as you can even though you might not get quite as much yield from the log that way. Also agree that the slower it dries, the less problems you will have with the wood, especially stuff thicker than 6/4 (inch and a half). In fact, if you're drying something really thick like 4 inch, you will be hard pressed to not get some cracks and splitting in those pieces as they dry. Generally not to the point of being a structural problem, but cracks none the less.

 

[slabmaster]

White oak takes along time to season.If you keep the heartwood in the center of the 4x4 it won't warp or move on you much.it is one of the hardest woods to season as the pores are blocked with inclusions called tyloses that make it impervious to liquids. BUT ONCE SEASONED,it's versatility is unmatched. Good luck with it,Mark

 

[carvinmark]

Any left overs will make great fire wood too.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Agreed... if stability is key, quarter as much of it as you can even though you might not get quite as much yield from the log that way. Also agree that the slower it dries, the less problems you will have with the wood, especially stuff thicker than 6/4 (inch and a half). In fact, if you're drying something really thick like 4 inch, you will be hard pressed to not get some cracks and splitting in those pieces as they dry. Generally not to the point of being a structural problem, but cracks none the less.

4" thick it is, problem is they will be 4" wide too, and you can't quarter saw it in both directions!

Either the heart has to be centered or the grain has to be straight and all of the 4x4 has to have NO heart in it.

Best way to get stability in this situation is a glue up...

Rob

 

[Backwoods]

I milled up some pear wood to use to restore an old press.
Store the wood where you plan to store the press if you can as that will allow the wood to dry to the level need. The better care you take of the wood while drying the less problem it will give you when it is time to use it.

I rift saw when milling legs this keeps the grain going thru the widest part of a square, helping to alleviate the stresses of the wood.

 

[B-Edwards]

I took the logs to a fellow today who will saw them and he also has a kiln . We went over how to quater saw it and he actualy had a book with pictures so now I know exactly what it means, neat stuff. I took four logs that are all capable of getting several 4x4s out of each one. That being said and knowing what I want to accomplish, how to cut them? I know glue would do it but I would rather have a solid piece. maybe thats not possible.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I took the logs to a fellow today who will saw them and he also has a kiln . We went over how to quater saw it and he actualy had a book with pictures so now I know exactly what it means, neat stuff. I took four logs that are all capable of getting several 4x4s out of each one. That being said and knowing what I want to accomplish, how to cut them? I know glue would do it but I would rather have a solid piece. maybe thats not possible.

It i wasn't going to do a glue up, then i'd saw them oversize, something like 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" and "Anchorseal" the ends real good. Then i'd re-saw them to the exact size i wanted, after they are dry, when i was ready to use them...

Rob

 

[B-Edwards]

Thanks Rob, that is a really good idea. (Great idea)