How to keep the stacked wood straight?

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Hello Group,
I am having a hard time keeping my rounds a consistant length.
Almost all my rounds are under 12" and the small stuff 4" or less seem to always be shorter that the rest.
What is the best way to keep consistant lengths?
From an OBVIOUS NU-B;)
Measure it with the bar before you cut - with a 14" bar it should be easy to judge, but you can always put a mark on the bar at a shorter length.
 
I've never had a problem with curing it. Heated house using willow for 30 years and stuff several ricks in was dry in one season...but then this is a semiarid climate.

Harry K

Uh. No. Sir. That's not at all what I meant. What I meant was that I had no frikkin' idea what you meant when you wrote:

...Ricked tight to rick up to 20 ricks deep...

So. What on earth does that mean?
 
Means ole Harry is the leader of a cult...errr...alternative religion where all the members have changed their name to Rick :D
 
Hello Group,
I am having a hard time keeping my rounds a consistant length.
Almost all my rounds are under 12" and the small stuff 4" or less seem to always be shorter that the rest.
What is the best way to keep consistant lengths?
From an OBVIOUS NU-B;)

I made this, works like a charm:

[video=youtube;qrPyt5STtFw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrPyt5STtFw[/video]
 
Forgive my ignorance but how does that work?

Make a T out of some pvc pipe (I used the thick 1" stuff for durability). Get 3 caps and a T-union. Glue it all together, except for one cap. Now, you got a handle, and a length of pipe you want just as long as the logs you want. Cut a slit into one of the caps, just barely into the hollow of the pipe. Put a bunch of marking chalk into the pipes. So, when you line up one end of the pipe with the end of the log, and tap the other end, chalk comes out marking the cut. Then line up the non-marking end of your nifty tool with the mark you just made, and make another mark for the next log. Since I'm anal, I have a piece of black electrical tape to help me line up the edge exactly. Also, I don't tap like they do in the video, I rest the non-marking end on the log, and only tap the marking end, it seems easier to me to keep things lined up. Make that cut in the pipe as small as you can, or you can go through chalk fast (though it's real cheap, I just got a big jug of the stuff, and only reloaded once). Two problems with this tool, it only works one direction (for me, since the chalk only comes out of one end on the one I made), and it is very awkward to use backwards. Not a big deal if you're working in a clear space, much harder in brambles on a slope the goats won't even climb (like I usually am). Also, if the wood is dirty and wet, the cut likes to get clogged with crap, and often the random twig I find small enough to clear it isn't strong enough, so maybe make it wide enough for your pocketknife to get into to clean, or carry a paper clip on damp days. Lemmie know if you want, I'll post a pic of the one I made.
 
Uh. No. Sir. That's not at all what I meant. What I meant was that I had no frikkin' idea what you meant when you wrote:

...Ricked tight to rick up to 20 ricks deep...

So. What on earth does that mean?

Ah! I stack one rick and then the next right against, rinse repeat and wind up with a solid 'block' of wood with no spacing between ricks.

Harry K
 
Two problems with this tool, it only works one direction (for me, since the chalk only comes out of one end on the one I made), and it is very awkward to use backwards.
How about a slit on the opposite side of the cap from the first one? Then it becomes ambidextrous. I don't think you'll have to worry about too much chalk coming out of the top slit when you tap it.
 
What I started using was a 16 inch piece of trim. It is about 3/4"x 1/2". I can hold onto it while cutting. With the throttle hand. Then I just hold it up to the log and where the end is I keep my eye on that spot and cut. If there is snow on the log I can make a mark in the snow. Should I need my hand for something else I just stick it in my back pocket. Very simple and very easy. Should you break it then your out 10 cents and make another one.
 
DB,
Please post a pic of your marker. I was thinking it was paint but when you mentioned chalk I started thinking about the design. How does the chalk stick to the wood in the wet?
Thanks

It's raining out now, I'll try to get the tool later during a break. I've never had a problem with the chalk staying put, damp or dry (haven't used it in the rain though, I bet it would clog). I use the Stanly brand chalk, red, that's of the "almost permanent" variety.
 
What I started using was a 16 inch piece of trim. It is about 3/4"x 1/2". I can hold onto it while cutting. With the throttle hand. Then I just hold it up to the log and where the end is I keep my eye on that spot and cut. If there is snow on the log I can make a mark in the snow. Should I need my hand for something else I just stick it in my back pocket. Very simple and very easy. Should you break it then your out 10 cents and make another one.

I used to do the same, except I'd just grab whatever kindling stick I had nearby. I wanted something faster.
 
I wished this was mine holy btu's batman
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