cuttinstuff
ArboristSite Operative
I see, makes sense. Thanks for the replys, I am always learning something on here. As far as the debate goes I dont want to open up a can of worms, did that once with the Husky Stihl debate..............
How to leave split wood outside.
- Thread starter aandabooks
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aandabooks
Addicted to ArboristSite
I asked this earlier in this thread but again, how long do you think logs for uprights would last in concrete? My father-in-law didn't think it would be a good idea due to termites.
Matt
Matt
Matt, if you can get locust & peel the bark, it'll probably outlast us. The oldtimers said locust would last 2 years longer than stone.
blackdoggy
ArboristSite Operative
The best thing I have seen around here for storing wood under would be one of these cheap ($1,000) steel carports that are 20Ft long 12Ft wide and 7Ft high. The way I would do it with one of them would be pour cement posts three or four ft high then build it on top of there. Then again the best thing would be getting one of the steel carports thats made to cover a macmansion type R.V. that like 42.5Ft long by 14Ft wide and 12.5Ft tall which would be perfect for covering a full 45 cords
its only 4K plus shipping lol. As for protecting your wood posts the best thing to do is get your paws on some roofing tar and coat the length of the pole that will be in the ground then go up it about another three feet and or get some termite poison and spread it around the post bases.
its only 4K plus shipping lol. As for protecting your wood posts the best thing to do is get your paws on some roofing tar and coat the length of the pole that will be in the ground then go up it about another three feet and or get some termite poison and spread it around the post bases.
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Sharper is Safe
ArboristSite Lurker
The concept and selection of materials is about a as good as I could hope for - but my maximum "footprint" is 120 square feet - 10 by 12, 8 by 15, 6 x 20, etc.
I suspect that the standard sizes they sell are larger than that, and custom sizes would be more expensive. I suppose I could look at the possibility of modifying a large unit, to make a couple of smaller ones that meet the building restrictions.
Do you know any brand names? I plan to google this, but often times, some brands get missed in the first few pages of the search - and after the first few pages, the search usually gets to 99% uselessness....
Hmmm....now you have me thinking in a new direction - exactly what I hoped would happen when I posted this message - THANKS!!
I suspect that the standard sizes they sell are larger than that, and custom sizes would be more expensive. I suppose I could look at the possibility of modifying a large unit, to make a couple of smaller ones that meet the building restrictions.
Do you know any brand names? I plan to google this, but often times, some brands get missed in the first few pages of the search - and after the first few pages, the search usually gets to 99% uselessness....
Hmmm....now you have me thinking in a new direction - exactly what I hoped would happen when I posted this message - THANKS!!
Several questions for you 1. Your 120 square ft restriction does that apply to the footprint of the building on the ground or total building surface. 2. Do you plan on enclosing the building totally or just on certain sides? 3. How many can you have on your property and how far apart do they need to be if you can have more than one, Reason being if it only needs square footage for a footprint how about spending money on a roof instead that was sizeably bigger than the 120 square ft footprint, made it simple with a sloping roof to one side and made it overhang 10 to 15 ft on all sides and you just doubled your dry storage area by twice and didn't put sides on it and access from all four sides. If your allowed to have more than one and theres no distance restriction on them put them apposing just like a normal building just leave a space between them just like an open eve on a normal building for venulation. With going with an open sided building design and having a roof twice the size of the footprint you can build it for relatively low dollars and access it from all sides as you stack in and take out wood according to how you put it in as time goes by. The roof keeps the wood dry and snow off and if they don't have a restriction on roofs and you go with a 6 by 20 building and put on a ten ft overhang on all sides you have a 26 by 40 building roof and if they don't have any restrictions on how many units or how close just oppose two and leave a two or three ft space between them and you have a 52 by 40 building with a two or three ft open eve for venulation and didn't cheat on the footprint and only the cost of a roof and posts. Just a thought and if you went with a pole frame construction and not self supporting rafters the cost just got cheaper just slant the roof to one side and brace the overhangs back to the supporting posts and put some tin on the roof and bingo a cheap woodshed. I don't know what you have for equipment but we use a skidsteer and just dump it in and pile it as needed and take it out as needed or sort by variety or year cut and split or however you want to do it.
aandabooks
Addicted to ArboristSite
Randy,
I don't have any restrictions because there are no building permits issued in the town that I live in. I could literally put an extension on the house and don't have to file a thing to do it. Once every 3 years the county tax assessor drives by the house and estimates the value based on square footage.
My plan is to put 8 4x4s in the ground and run 2x6 to support the slope roof. It would be 8 feet in front sloping to 6 feet. Plan for a 1 ft overhang at front and back. The 120 sq. ft. just kind of fits nicely where I want to put the shed. The sides will probably be cattle panel. Maximum airflow with stability to hold wood. Sold in 5'x16' sections for under $20 at farm supply store. One in the back, cut in half for one side and a front section. Have an 8 foot access door in the middle. 4 ft. of the width would be boxed off for wood in the back and possible storage of woodsplitter. This would allow for 2 seasons of split wood in rotation with the woodshed that I already have between to existing buildings that holds 1 season worth of wood.
The whole purpose of the woodshed is so that I could split/stack wood right off the truck and be done with that handling. Right now if comes off the truck and gets stacked/dumped at the woodpile. Then in the spring when the woodshed is empty, I split the next winters worth of wood. This way I will be splitting wood as it comes in and not worrying about it until it is time to take it in the house for burning.
Matt
I don't have any restrictions because there are no building permits issued in the town that I live in. I could literally put an extension on the house and don't have to file a thing to do it. Once every 3 years the county tax assessor drives by the house and estimates the value based on square footage.
My plan is to put 8 4x4s in the ground and run 2x6 to support the slope roof. It would be 8 feet in front sloping to 6 feet. Plan for a 1 ft overhang at front and back. The 120 sq. ft. just kind of fits nicely where I want to put the shed. The sides will probably be cattle panel. Maximum airflow with stability to hold wood. Sold in 5'x16' sections for under $20 at farm supply store. One in the back, cut in half for one side and a front section. Have an 8 foot access door in the middle. 4 ft. of the width would be boxed off for wood in the back and possible storage of woodsplitter. This would allow for 2 seasons of split wood in rotation with the woodshed that I already have between to existing buildings that holds 1 season worth of wood.
The whole purpose of the woodshed is so that I could split/stack wood right off the truck and be done with that handling. Right now if comes off the truck and gets stacked/dumped at the woodpile. Then in the spring when the woodshed is empty, I split the next winters worth of wood. This way I will be splitting wood as it comes in and not worrying about it until it is time to take it in the house for burning.
Matt
JackD_ME
ArboristSite Operative
I do like most here, just stack it outside the house but the one thing the oldtimers always say is to stack it BARK SIDE UP outside and BARK SIDE DOWN inside.
Having the bark up while outside sheds any rain or snow that may get through a busted tarp on top.
Having the bark down while inside the shed/house allows for faster drying of any wood that may still have moisture in it.
If you're buying treelength just have them drop it close to where it will be stacked! Saves some moving.
Having the bark up while outside sheds any rain or snow that may get through a busted tarp on top.
Having the bark down while inside the shed/house allows for faster drying of any wood that may still have moisture in it.
If you're buying treelength just have them drop it close to where it will be stacked! Saves some moving.
drmiller100
ArboristSite Guru
if you want to build a greenhouse, everyone seems to use clear plastic visqueen.
it seems to me to cover a big pile of firewood you should use clear plastic visqueen.
do not seal the sides. cut some holes at the top. on sunny days natural convection carries a bunch of the air through, and the plastic keeps water from being added.
it seems to me to cover a big pile of firewood you should use clear plastic visqueen.
do not seal the sides. cut some holes at the top. on sunny days natural convection carries a bunch of the air through, and the plastic keeps water from being added.
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