Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
What's the best and easiest way to remove the cylinder off an ms 290.
You got to take it allllll the waaaay down .....
The 'A' plan: Remember that, in addition to the 4 bolts on the bottom, you need to remove the rear bar stud to free the engine assembly. Then you just life, tilt and slide it out ....
The 'B' plan: Put that powerhead in a large bucket with a pound of Tannerite. Place bucket in remote empty field. Hit Tannerite from safe distance with the centerfire round of your choice.
That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.Pulling rear stud not necessary if just removing the cylinder.
If you want an OEM 039 jug just let me know
Take a few pics if you or mind, I would like to see this.That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
Yes......exactly.That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
Whaddya wanna see. I might have picsTake a few pics if you or mind, I would like to see this.
Russ
You'll still have to disassemble the entire saw. Leaving the bottom cap in the chassis will only serve to make it more difficult to properly clean, thereby increasing the likelihood of an air leak. I'd recommend just removing the stud with a pair of Vise Grips and install a new stud when going back together. You'll also need new crank seals and a tube of fuel proof sealant, not silicone. Do it right...do it once.That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
Pulling rear stud not necessary if just removing the cylinder.
If you want an OEM 039 jug just let me know
Sorry mang.
and to think I was looking for one of those a while back. Dadgummit!
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