how to take down this maple

[chuckwood]

This tree is in the way and I'd like to convert it to firewood. Obviously, a routine notch and a back cut won't work here because this thing could crack right down the middle where the two "halves" join together. One option is to chain and strap it up and cut like I would any other tree. But I'm also thinking about slicing it vertically into two separate parts, notch one part and then do the back cut by boring in first through the middle, then back cut to the notch/hinge. Then cut the other half like any other tree. I wonder how trees grow like this, I've seen a lot of them, a few with even three trunks all fused together at the bottom. Does this happen when two seedlings grow right next to each other and then sort of fuse together as the years go by?

 

[MechanicMatt]

Good luck, id just be worried about hitting debris in the crotch of that tree if you try and cut it down the middle. As a kid I was quilty of tossing quite a few rocks into crotches like that, now that I'm older and burn wood myself I'm always warry of what some kid like me did to the tree I'm cutting. Dang I have NO idea how many nails I've beaten into trees building my elaporate tree palaces.

 

[CWME]

That looks like a good candidate for a few pounds of tanerite set off with a well placed shot from a couple hundred yards out. If that isn't an option the face cut and then bore in for the back cut would probably work fine. Not as fun though...

 

[CTYank]

This tree is in the way and I'd like to convert it to firewood. Obviously, a routine notch and a back cut won't work here because this thing could crack right down the middle where the two "halves" join together. One option is to chain and strap it up and cut like I would any other tree. But I'm also thinking about slicing it vertically into two separate parts, notch one part and then do the back cut by boring in first through the middle, then back cut to the notch/hinge. Then cut the other half like any other tree. I wonder how trees grow like this, I've seen a lot of them, a few with even three trunks all fused together at the bottom. Does this happen when two seedlings grow right next to each other and then sort of fuse together as the years go by?

That poor red maple is split down at least to the root flare, so you can count on the pieces going their own way, as they wish.

I'd suggest dropping the rt.-hand leader above the "joint" if safely possible. (NO ladders, eh?) A pole-saw could be a big help. So, that part could fall to the right, then you do a conventional face & backcut on the other part, so it falls almost straight away, in the picture view. As always, leave a proper hinge and use wedges liberally. Good Luck.

 

[abbott295]

As I recall my learning, if the crotch is below 8 ft off the ground, it is considered two trees; if it's over, it is one tree. Is that a third trunk/branch off the back? Hard/ sugar maple or silver? or red? That may make a difference how weak that trunk may be expected to be. But it sure looks like it is going to be weak. What other constraints are there in which way(s) it can fall? And how big is it, how high is that crack? It really doesn't look like there is much holding it together. Tie a rope to it up higher, notch it above the crack, plunge cut for the back cut and if that half doesn't just fall over, pull on the rope (a good long rope) ? Your proposed vertical cut may not be necessary.

In our yard/garden, we have pulled up unwanted oak seedlings with two sprouts coming out of one acorn, probably water oak (Quercus nigra.)

 

[bigremovals]

Knotch and get the h**l outta the way haha

 

[old_soul]

what direction to you want it to go? how is the top weighted. if the tops are heavy and leaning opposite each other, then splitting is a concern. Sometimes woods trees are thin and not as much of a force up there

I'd use a low low notch at the root flare and cut it opposite the split ( as in towards the camera) looks like it might hold long enough to tip it over

Use a long bar, enough to get through quick with one cut and a sharp chain. not really the spot to be screwing around trying to line things up

seen lots of red maples with structural defects, like this.........

 

[cantoo]

Doesn't look like anything else to damage close by. Notch the bottom either front or back as shown in your picture and drop whichever way it's leaning.
Or if you think that is too dangerous then hold my beer and go make me a sammich while I drop it for you.
Or you could cut it one tree off high then cut the rest off as another tree low. I did a bigger ash like this last Saturday only I just cut the 10" branch from the main stem that was maybe 20". I didn't cut the main one down because it would fall on my logging trail and I already had a load on the ground. I might drop the rest next week if I don't have to bake a cake.

PS, I don't drink that was a joke....

 

[woodchuck357]

Just notch it low to fall toward or away from the camera position, keeping the notch and felling cut even between both stems.

 

[chuckwood]

As I recall my learning, if the crotch is below 8 ft off the ground, it is considered two trees; if it's over, it is one tree. Is that a third trunk/branch off the back? Hard/ sugar maple or silver? or red? That may make a difference how weak that trunk may be expected to be. But it sure looks like it is going to be weak. What other constraints are there in which way(s) it can fall? And how big is it, how high is that crack? It really doesn't look like there is much holding it together. Tie a rope to it up higher, notch it above the crack, plunge cut for the back cut and if that half doesn't just fall over, pull on the rope (a good long rope) ? Your proposed vertical cut may not be necessary.

The crotch is at least 8 feet up, I don't think my pole saw has the reach or bar length to cut above the crotch. Looks to be a red maple. It's clear to fall in direction of lean for both trunks. Size at base I'm guessing is around 20 inches diameter. If I don't make the long vertical cut and slice the trunk in two sections, what happens if I plunge cut for the back cut on the first half and nothing happens and it just sits there, still attached to the other half? Then I'll have to mess around with it in a situation where it could bust loose on me any second.....

 

[chuckwood]

Doesn't look like anything else to damage close by. Notch the bottom either front or back as shown in your picture and drop whichever way it's leaning.
Or if you think that is too dangerous then hold my beer and go make me a sammich while I drop it for you.
Or you could cut it one tree off high then cut the rest off as another tree low. I did a bigger ash like this last Saturday only I just cut the 10" branch from the main stem that was maybe 20".

The tree has lean only side to side, and the two main trunks balance each other out. If I cut the thing at the bottom like it was an ordinary tree, I wouldn't have a clue as to which way it would want to go, I'd have to wedge it to force it the way I want. I don't see any way to cut one trunk off high with a regular chain saw. Sure ain't gonna use any ladders......

 

[chuckwood]

Just notch it low to fall toward or away from the camera position, keeping the notch and felling cut even between both stems.

Toward or away from the camera position introduces getting tangled up in other trees. What I'm thinking about with your suggestion is what if I'm cutting between both stems and the thing splits apart with trunks going in two different unexpected directions? It's not hard to figure out your escape path from a single falling trunk, but two going down and maybe doing something unexpected introduces complications......

 

[Marshy]

I'm glad I don't have to discuss how to drop a tree with anyone when I'm actually doing it. It's way easier to convince myself what needs to be done than others. It is nice to read about some other peoples insights though.

 

[Jakers]

safest way i see to do it is as you described first off. if you want to test the split just drive a felling or splitting wedge in it and watch it separate. split and plunge cuts also depend on how large the trees diameter is. if this was only a 12 inch tree then plunging would have to be done very carefully with the narrowest bar you own. on this tree you will be fine as it looks to be about 18"-22" in the picture. good luck and post up the results.

Edit: also if you are questioning the split, watch it on a windy day. the movement will tell the story of what's connected and where

 

[Locust Cutter]

I'd echo the above and cut it above the crotch/split. At that point, each stem is effectively it's own tree and you can deal with each individually. I've had to do that on a few cracked out Bradford Pears and Sweet Gums.

 

[Kimberly Sullivan]

It really doesn't look like there is much holding it together.

 

[lindnova]

You have to assume the crotch is not holding together. I once cut a tree that looked way better than yours, and once a notch and back cut is started, strength changes.

Looks like the crotch is pretty high, so other than a pole saw probably not a good option to cut one or the other. I cant see where it all is leaning and what there is to hang up on. If it has a lean in one direction, you could cut the whole thing very carefully with the possibility of one or the other trunk going different ways as long as it doesn't come back on you.

 

[Zale]

If the split does not go all the way to the ground, I would put a couple of straps around the trunk and drop it. Your other option (safer) would be to hire a climber and top it out.

 

[One Shot Will]

I would strap it together and cut as one tree.

 

[zogger]

Only two reasonably safe type ways I can see, already mentioned. Get some crap chains and rip it down the crack and treat it like two leaners, or strap and chain it up over your felling cuts and fell it perpendicular to that crack, forwards or backwards in that pic.

I did two lightning struck medium big oaks last fall, I strapped and chained them up with every bit of stuff I had, then felled them. They had cracks all through them once I started bucking.