How would you finish this tree ???

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Glad to see you got it down safely and were comfortable doing it. It is real hard to work a tree from a chair so far away and figure the best way to do it, sort of like giving cost estimates on the phone. Have to agree with RB on the 3/4 line, think that lead would have bent over trying to hold it up that much rope and the poor ground man who had to roll that thing up after 1 or 2 cuts.
As for tools near wires, I think better approach is small pieces thrown away from wires, cut limbs straight without any hooks/stubs that can catch a wire and hang. I have gotton zapped a few times with a pole saw trimming near the lines and it friggin hurts. :eek: Really depends on the situation, condition of wires/pole/connection and size of the piece you will cut.
 
diltree said:
Why waist time droping service wires and rigging up speed lines when you can suck the inner leader off the outer leader; one shot(butt heavy), and crack the remaining top over

couldnt have said it better,speed lines should be called slow lines.
 
Just to clear things up

Guys, I suggested the 3/4 line for false crotching simply because I am not really positive on axmans level of experience with rigging drops on a sling mounted pulley(snatchblock). If I'm going to make a suggestion to a possible beginner I'm going to lead him down the safe path. Not because this job is going to have such a shock load that line failure could be possible, but for the next time he decides to try cracking the head over on a much larger heavy top. As for insulated pole saws, they are great for line clearance tree trimming from an aerial lift. Most are rated for 20,000 and are awesome for knocking a piece you accidentally lay on the 3-phase. When removing a Tree around the wires..loop is right on, a fast cutting saw will make the difference between hanging one up and making a smooth fast cut, and this is true for both roping around the wires or beating a tree down as well.

P.S...Speed Lines are a waist of time...stop watching Arbor-Master videos
 
diltree said:
...Speed Lines are a waist of time...


Most of the time yes they are a waste, but thats for the guy who just has to do it, cuz he can. I have done somejobs where it was the only real efficient way, but it IS rather rare.
 
Speedline

I don't see what takes so long about one. Just tie it at the top. Take a rap on a porty, girth hitch sling, clip biner and let it fly. Quicker than lowering with false crotch and 3/4 inch line anyday.

Never saw the arbormaster videos. Too much money for me.
 
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diltree said:
Guys, I suggested the 3/4 line for false crotching simply because I am not really positive on axmans level of experience with rigging drops on a sling mounted pulley(snatchblock). If I'm going to make a suggestion to a possible beginner I'm going to lead him down the safe path. Not because this job is going to have such a shock load that line failure could be possible, but for the next time he decides to try cracking the head over on a much larger heavy top. As for insulated pole saws, they are great for line clearance tree trimming from an aerial lift. Most are rated for 20,000 and are awesome for knocking a piece you accidentally lay on the 3-phase. When removing a Tree around the wires..loop is right on, a fast cutting saw will make the difference between hanging one up and making a smooth fast cut, and this is true for both roping around the wires or beating a tree down as well.

P.S...Speed Lines are a waist of time...stop watching Arbor-Master videos
\

Again, you seemingly don't have a clue about speedline usage..... he ll, I zipped a few paulownia branches today from over a roof to the driveway......made life easier and was super quick. There have been many huge trees we've done that it saved our butts on.....as well, there are many technique variations that open up a world of possiblilites...few or none of which did I learn from my 6 day Arbormaster training years ago--which I only took cause we got a 70% off deal...and I hoped there'd be another competition....there wasn't...my friend Paul Sisson had won it twice.

Again, I repeat, total overkill on the 3/4 line.....and I would never have butt hitched the top of that spindly leader anyhow.

Ax-Man did the job the right way, he just climbed up and cut small pieces. Just as I did today with a very brushy maple that was into the triple secondaries..and all the other lower phone, cable and bracing lines. Plus the service ran right through it, which I coulda had dropped. As well, the house was close by, a pine was a bit in the way, and a smoke tree was right under it...... Tied in high in 3 inch wood and pulled everything clear of the wires... Pics later, but it was a 11 hour day.

Pics are from a recent $5000 fir removal....short of craning it out from the top down, branches on, with a 200 ton crane, speedlining was the ONLY way...PERIOD! still took two full days, crew of 5...
 
Ok Roger

You win speedLines are the balls.....I checked out your picks, very cool. Instead of renting a center mounted boom truck, you should just buy a crane. It will save you a ton of time. I have a sweet rear-mounted 18 ton JLG for sale if you are interested...90 ft of stick without the jib, You lose zero radius picking of the back. Great crane for tree work. Id like to sell it out of the area, For Barnett Tree of Seattle, $69,000, you just have to make a trip to Mass to get it.
 
Speedlines don't always have to be oriented horizontally and away from the top anchor point.

I've run them vertically on excurrent growth trees. Running them from the end of a branch back to the base of the tree is a great way to move wood off of a house.

ONe of the easiest setups is when a long tip is over a house and there isn't a high rigging point to lift the limbs. As the climber starts out on the limb, they tie off the SL at the base. At strategic points, redirects are set, this is called a fishing pole. When the climber gets to the end of the limb, slings are choked to the limbs and then clipped to the SL. A groundie can act as the anchor for small pieces. As the limb flies down the SL groundie can let out slack to slow the drop and put the limb exactly where it is needed. Nothing fancy here and quick to setup. I did this on a job when we were short handed and layed out all of the limbs in a fan pattern so there wasn't a jumbled mess later.

By the way, the training videos are from the ISA.
 
Does anyone share the same frustration I do when you do use a speedline with those looprunners. Seems like they are either too long, too short or not enough of the right size. If I did a lot of speedlining I'd be more inclined to use a piece of cord or small dia. rope attached the biner to be able to adjust it to whatever the situation called for.

I have used a speedline tied off to the bucket and sent small pieces down hanging by a crotch, making sure they won't flip off. Works good if you can't pitch a piece without hitting a target.

Larry
 
the coolest time ive used a speedline was across a pool the tips of the branches hit the water sprayed the groundies and slowed it down.
 
Larry, I share you frustration with using looprunners or other slings for rigging branches. For light rigging of pieces I prefer small pieces of small rope that are eyeslpiced on one end. -That allows me to rig with whatever degree of slack I deem apropriate.
 
I'v done harry crap like that in the foothills of Colorado. Sometimes no one near to rescue either. This looks like a walk in the park. I would climb it and chunk it out. No problem.
 
I did crap like that in the foothills of Colorado all of the time. I would get my climbing butt in the tree and chunk it out.
 

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