huskavarnas 345 vs stihl 250c

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bto

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im going to buy a chainsaw for homeowner and perhaps light duty commerical
ive been using a husky 345 for a while had good luck with it feels good no vibration always starts ect however i know sthil is a great saw and is a pioneer aswell It seems husky might have cheapend up a little in quality maybe not plus i like shihls quick chain tightener.
who is the superior saw?? figured id ask the experts
 
These saws are about even in every way, including quality. If a Stihl blows your skirt up, go for the 250.

I happen to think that both the 345 and 250 are excellent choices for an inexpensive high quality saw. The 350, for only a bit more than the 345, offers more power and an adjustable oiler.

Russ
 
Welcome bto,

Both saws are good saws for your stated use. I own a 340 which I like for small stuff. You can't go wrong with the 345 or 250. Find a local dealer you like and go get a saw. Remember your safety gear also.
Just for fun reading...Popular Mechanics (May 04) had a fairly good generic test of 7 small homeowner saws which included the 345 & 250. If you can't get this issue, PM me and I will copy and send it to you.

Let us know what you decide and how you like it.
 
someone said that shihl has 2 piston rings which would make it last longer and have more power. I have noticed that husky has changed owners a few times and his being sold in discount retailers such as Mills fleetfarm ect I dont know if any of this matters however
 
bto said:
someone said that shihl has 2 piston rings which would make it last longer and have more power.

Any additional life based on the number of rings is likely to be inconsequential to you. More power? Nope!

bto said:
I have noticed that husky has changed owners a few times and his being sold in discount retailers such as Mills fleetfarm ect I dont know if any of this matters however

Changed owners? Not in the last few hundred years. Does it matter that they are sold at FleetFarm? Only if you buy your saw through them instead of a real dealer.

Russ
 
i know electrolux bought them which they made vaccum cleaners so I thought that was odd I figured they cheapened them up especially since i see them being sold at Mills Fleetfarm but perhaps not.
I do agree to buy them from a dealer however and not the discount chains

at this point im leaning twords the husky.....it has a better feel to me
 
If the 250 is the same as an 025...it's a good saw, I have really overworked mine. It currently has some type of fuel problem but compression and spark are still good after 8 years and a lot of cords of firewood and pruning!
 
Not much to add here, but make sure that you get a saw without Quick Chain Adjuster and/or Easy to start if you choose the Stihl.

Personally i like the Husky 345/350 a lot better than the Stihl 250, but that's just me.....

Anyway, try to get the saw with .325 Narrow Kerf (NK) setup - they are often standard on the Huskys, but not availiable from Stihl.
However, I think both Oregon and Carlon has NK bars that fit the Stihl.
 
SawTroll said:
Not much to add here, but make sure that you get a saw without Quick Chain Adjuster and/or Easy to start if you choose the Stihl.

why? are they having problems with those??? i know the dealer really pushes that when i check out stihl

Anyway, try to get the saw with .325 Narrow Kerf (NK) setup - What is that? im not framiliar with it
 
Yes, the QCA and Easy to Start are basically more gimmicks to go wrong, trying to make using a saw more effortless for homeowners who use a saw once or twice a year.

The narrow kerf setup cuts a thinner kerf (width of the cut) as the bar and the cutters of the chain are narrower. This reduces the load on the saw by cutting a narrower width of wood with the chain, thus using less power to cut the chips, it can keep the chain speed up and make more cuts in a given time. It makes more efficient use of the available power a saw produces, thus letting smaller saws cut faster and more effectively than their engine size would suggest. It is a good idea for smaller saws.
 
As Timberpig said regarding the NK bar and chain:)

The QSA tend to discurage proper maintenanse of the bar as it makes it more complicated.
As he also said the Easy2Start is an unnesessary gimmick, meant to solve a non-existant problem - and it also adds .3 kg (2/3 of a pound) to the saws weight. :angry:
 
SawTroll said:
As Timberpig said regarding the NK bar and chain:)

The QSA tend to discurage proper maintenanse of the bar as it makes it more complicated.
As he also said the Easy2Start is an unnesessary gimmick, meant to solve a non-existant problem - and it also adds .3 kg (2/3 of a pound) to the saws weight. :angry:
Easy Start on small saws is nonsens for the man in its "normal" physical condition, but have seen mens (over 50 age) whose cant start 50cm3 saw.
For me it is too somewat wierd see the buyer of the MS230 which has all the easystarting and other whistles, being at the same time cheap plastic "box".
v.
 
SawTroll said:
As Timberpig said regarding the NK bar and chain:)

The QSA tend to discurage proper maintenanse of the bar as it makes it more complicated.
As he also said the Easy2Start is an unnesessary gimmick, meant to solve a non-existant problem - and it also adds .3 kg (2/3 of a pound) to the saws weight. :angry:


The Stihl dealer here likes to sell these to older people, women and people who find these difficult to crank up, which is really what it was designed for and the market it is directed at. There are men and women who do have a difficult time getting a 40-45cc saw cranked up. Heck some have a difiicult time cranking up their line trimmer which are only 25cc's. Many lawn-mowers come equipped with a crank up system now also, these are designed again to make things easier on older people, women and people who find these difficult to crank up.
 
OK, I accept that the Easy2Start isn't totally worthless for all people, but I still think it is for most people.

Husky has a similar system on their newest Poulan built homeowner saws (137 and 142) and Jred on the 2138, I think.
I just recieved a new Husky brochure - and it is now offered on the 345 too. :eek:
 
I replaced the fixed jet carb on mine and between that and the muffler mod which this saw lends itself to very well, the saw really woke up I haven't gone to a narrow kerf chain setup but I did go to the full chisel RS chain, it was only 12 bucks for the chain, make sure you get the 16" bar. And no matter what go to great lengths to keep it razor sharp. I haven't figured out why the narrow kerf chain for efficiency uses a less efficient semi-chisel tooth.

anyway I am quite happy with my 025 so far.

good luck

Lucky
 
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SawTroll said:
OK, I accept that the Easy2Start isn't totally worthless for all people, but I still think it is for most people.

Husky has a similar system on their newest Poulan built homeowner saws (137 and 142) and Jred on the 2138, I think.
I just recieved a new Husky brochure - and it is now offered on the 345 too. :eek:
and Dolmar name for it is Happy Start :laugh: :laugh:
 
Not saying that every person who has difficulty starting their saw/trimmer etc doesn't have a reason for it, but if you don't have the strength to even start the engine, do you actually have the strength needed to safely operate it? I just worry that if a person cannot even start the engine, then how can they safely handle the weight of the machine? It isn't like a 45-50cc saw is hard to start, particularly if you put it on the ground with your foot through the handle and then pull.
 
TimberPig said:
Not saying that every person who has difficulty starting their saw/trimmer etc doesn't have a reason for it, but if you don't have the strength to even start the engine, do you actually have the strength needed to safely operate it? I just worry that if a person cannot even start the engine, then how can they safely handle the weight of the machine? It isn't like a 45-50cc saw is hard to start, particularly if you put it on the ground with your foot through the handle and then pull.

i would have to respectfully disagree with you here. i have problems starting most saws because of a shoulder problem. but, that problem does not affect the way i use the saw to cut in any way. gravity helps there.
 
If you read the first line, that is what I was meaning was shoulder injuries, elbow problems wrist problems etc. But if you don't have the STRENGTH to pull the cord without assistance, ie no shoulder wrist elbow problems, you may want o reconsider using a saw was my point.

As to your problem, is it both shoulders? Because if the saw is set on the ground, you can safely pull with either arm to start it and avoid having to use the bad side if you only have one shoulder problem.
 

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