So I was given a 340 with a scorched piston today. It still runs, but it is leaning out, I am guessing an air leak. I don't know too much about these little husky saws, so I have some questions. What pitch is the sprocket? 3/8? or .325? How much compression should the motor have? Is this saw a throw away saw, is it worth fixing or should I scrap it?
Husky 340 questions
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SawTroll
Information Collector
The pitch is .325 - and the bar and chain mostly the narrow kerf variaty.
Compression should be around 150.
It is a pretty nice little saw, not a typical throwaway, but still a consumer saw.
If the cylinder is OK, it may be worth fixing - if you find that air leak (if you are lucky it is the carb booth).
backwoods12
ArboristSite Operative
saw
yeah its worth fixing its got one those nerrow kerf chain and if u dont want it il give it new life over here
yeah its worth fixing its got one those nerrow kerf chain and if u dont want it il give it new life over here
backwoods12
ArboristSite Operative
vacum leak
make vacum tester sound like crankcase gasket that joints the case sides,or fly crank seal .
make vacum tester sound like crankcase gasket that joints the case sides,or fly crank seal .
I have a 340 with an air leak also, it looks just like new , I will be working on it in the next coming week . Once I perform the vac test I do a low air pressure test to find the leak and spray soapy water around the prone to leak areas to find the actual leak. The saw is so new looking I doubt that it is the seals leaking. Is there any other place prone to leaking on them? The tank vents on a lot of the small Husky saws is found near the center of the tank where the fuel line that connects to the carb. comes out through the tank. It is usually made like a brass stone filter pushed into a black plastic hose that sits early flush with the tank.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
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Thanks for the info. I looked thru all of the parts and have not found the tank vent, so it looks like I'll have to scrounge one up. Could that missing vent cause the saw to run lean? I wouldn't think so, but I don't know for sure. This saw is supposed to be fairly new, and looks that way too...
buildmyown
ArboristSite Operative
Here is an IPL for the 340 looks like the tank vent is ont he right hand side of the rear handle http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Husqvarna_Parts_Manuals/I0101108.pdf
When I first got my 345 I had a problem with the saw dying when ever I tried to cut with the saw on its side for example a felling cut. Took it to the dealer and they said that is was because the chock linkage feel off. Anyways to keep this short I noticed the the saw would really start to race just befor it died in the cut. It would then be a pain to start. I finally realized that the saw was starving for fuel and was leaning out just befor it died hince the engine racing. I narrowed it down with some help from this forum and realizing that everytime it died in the cut it acted like it was running out of fuel so the first thing I did was remove the fuel cap had plenty of fuel then the saw would start no problem. There seems to be an issue with this series of saw and not enough tank venting from other readings that i did. My soluton was to leave the fuel cap cracked a hair. I would refuel the saw snug down the gas cap hand tight then back it off just a hair no problems since then. Now that the capseal is a little worn I dont have that issue anymore. I think i caught it before any serious damage took place havent torn the saw down to look at the P/C no reason to the saw still runs great. Maybe I should pull it apart and see if I can fiqure out the tank vent.
Not enough venting in the tank will cause a saw to starve for fuel and cause a lean condition and burn down.
When I first got my 345 I had a problem with the saw dying when ever I tried to cut with the saw on its side for example a felling cut. Took it to the dealer and they said that is was because the chock linkage feel off. Anyways to keep this short I noticed the the saw would really start to race just befor it died in the cut. It would then be a pain to start. I finally realized that the saw was starving for fuel and was leaning out just befor it died hince the engine racing. I narrowed it down with some help from this forum and realizing that everytime it died in the cut it acted like it was running out of fuel so the first thing I did was remove the fuel cap had plenty of fuel then the saw would start no problem. There seems to be an issue with this series of saw and not enough tank venting from other readings that i did. My soluton was to leave the fuel cap cracked a hair. I would refuel the saw snug down the gas cap hand tight then back it off just a hair no problems since then. Now that the capseal is a little worn I dont have that issue anymore. I think i caught it before any serious damage took place havent torn the saw down to look at the P/C no reason to the saw still runs great. Maybe I should pull it apart and see if I can fiqure out the tank vent.
Not enough venting in the tank will cause a saw to starve for fuel and cause a lean condition and burn down.
The smaller huskies that I have worked on that have fuel tank vent problems is usually caused by oil soaked sawdust covering the brass stone filter , it gets sucked in to the vent end by vacuum from the fuel tank and the result is a blocked vent
, the engine can only run a short time before the fuel will not pump any more as the tank becomes airlocked
, fuel has been removed and no air can get into the tank to replace the pumped out fuel so when the fuel tank cover is opened then air is sucked into the tank and fuel can flow again. The vent filter can be cleaned most times by blowing it out with comp air but it has to be taken apart to get it good and clean.
Pioneerguy600
, the engine can only run a short time before the fuel will not pump any more as the tank becomes airlocked
, fuel has been removed and no air can get into the tank to replace the pumped out fuel so when the fuel tank cover is opened then air is sucked into the tank and fuel can flow again. The vent filter can be cleaned most times by blowing it out with comp air but it has to be taken apart to get it good and clean.
Pioneerguy600
Rep for the help!! I have a list of parts now, should have it up and running tomorrow. Thanks again!!
Keep us posted if you can on the results, I have not started on fixing the 340 that seems to have an air leak somewhere, maybe tomorrow if time allows.
Pioneerguy600
I put the saw together and cut a face cord, checked the piston and all seems well. I replaced the carb boot, installed a tank vent, replaced the fuel line and filter. What I found was where the tank vent presses into the tank there was no through hole, probably causing the lean condition. The carb boot wasn't up to par, so I replaced it as a safe measure. A 16" bar and a loop of double raker chain wraps up this one! Thanks again for yer help!
buckwill
ArboristSite Lurker
new guy, 340, bar and chain
hi buck here,nwew guy, ihave 340 husky bout from pawn shop, it throws the chain or tightens so much ir feezes,,the bar is marked 5089261-66, chain has 30 on links,, motor has 02-4605592, i am ,, was machinist millwright,,,chain is rusty in places, bar looks ok, no burns or wallowed out,what do i need to do to make this goodususable saw, i stroked, arrestedd 8 years agoooo so i dont type so well, thanks buck can anyone recommend source for parts, bar and chain
hi buck here,nwew guy, ihave 340 husky bout from pawn shop, it throws the chain or tightens so much ir feezes,,the bar is marked 5089261-66, chain has 30 on links,, motor has 02-4605592, i am ,, was machinist millwright,,,chain is rusty in places, bar looks ok, no burns or wallowed out,what do i need to do to make this goodususable saw, i stroked, arrestedd 8 years agoooo so i dont type so well, thanks buck can anyone recommend source for parts, bar and chain
Welcome to the site Buckwill, you will get all the info and then some on this site. It does not matter how well you type, just read some of the other threads on here. LOL. Probably best to get your chain really well cleaned up and oiled if possible with no tight spots on any of the links. Soak it in kerosene or diesel and just work the links back and forth, spray on some WD 40 while working the chain and it will soften up any rust or gunk between the links.It is important that the chain matches the bar/sprocket on the tip if it has one and the drive spur or ring on the clutch drum. That means the chain has a pitch which is usually .325 or 3/8" on most modern saws. The pitch is usually stamped on the bar if it is a sprocket tipped bar, the drive on the clutch drum has to match this pitch and the drive must be in good condition also, not badly worn or it will not work correctly. If you cannot salvage your bar and chain Bailey`s who are a site sponsor would be a good choice to contact. From your initial description I would check your drive on the clutch drum first to see how badly its worn, then get back to us and we will help you through any other problems.
Pioneerguy600
Your bar and chain are the same as what I have, 16" and .325 chain. Ya might check your chains drivers and look for a bent/damaged driver or a sticky rivet
Got some time to tear into the 340 today, first set up and did a vacuum test, of course it failed miserably so applied a little low pressure air. It leaks badly around the flywheel side radial seal so tear it all down. The bearings and seals are all in one on each side. Pull the bearings off the crank and find that the bearing are also shot, the spacers have disintergrated but the balls and races look like new, the seals that are integral are both damaged. The P&C are in real good shape so I will check to see what a pair will cost. This saw looks as new and was very clean when I found it. Are the 340`s known for bearing/seals failures?
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
backwoods12
ArboristSite Operative
cleaning chain
down were i come from i soak chains in can coke cola has to be that brand. works every time the acide in coke does a good job
down were i come from i soak chains in can coke cola has to be that brand. works every time the acide in coke does a good job
I put the Oregon 95VP chain/microlite bar and what a difference over stock, the little 340 is definately a screamer. I tried the super 20 micro chisel and I think it pulls the 95 chain a tiny bit better.
I did have the same problem with mine a few times on a felling cut, shut off after about 5-8 seconds on it's side and took a bit to start up, only did this a few times but not since.....wonder if a fuel cap from a different saw would work?
What mods did you do to your 340 to keep the tank vented?
I did have the same problem with mine a few times on a felling cut, shut off after about 5-8 seconds on it's side and took a bit to start up, only did this a few times but not since.....wonder if a fuel cap from a different saw would work?
What mods did you do to your 340 to keep the tank vented?
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