Husky 357xp Chain Brake Shoulder Bolt

[Buzzaro]

Howdy guys,
Just a homeowner here. I picked up a used 357xp for use around the yard. I had a big oak fall over so it seemed like a good time to invest something good I’d need from time to time (is this where the Stihl guys chime in?). So after running through a couple cords I noticed my chain brake was floppy on the non-chain side (non drive side?). So after getting a replacement from the local saw shop, I realized that the threads are actually pretty tore up. I can’t figure out what the threads are on this bolt. It’s close to an M5 in size but the pitch doesn’t match .8 or .5. Anyone have any tips or knowledge they could pass on to help get to the bottom of this? Also, from other forums I’ve learned everyone likes photos. So I’ll include a picture of the unruly bolt. A photo of the saw in question, and a photo of the old Echo my dad used to take out to old almond orchards to buck firewood for the winter that I would have the privilege of loading, unloading, and stacking.

 

[L34]

Does it screw into plastic?
Looks like a course thread plastic,not a metal thread to me.

 

[cuinrearview]

That's not the right bolt

 

[Buzzaro]

Does it screw into plastic?
Looks like a course thread plastic,not a metal thread to me.

No, it screws into metal. I believe it's the main block/case. I'll have to take it a little apart to be sure. It definitely doesn't look like machine threads for a bolt this size for sure.

That's not the right bolt

Possibly, though I got it from the saw shop and had the saw in hand and on their counter when they pulled it from stock.

 

[cus_deluxe]

That should be an m5x.8 like all the others.

 

[cuinrearview]

Possibly

Definitely

 

[Buzzaro]

Well, the general consensus seems to be that it's the incorrect bolt. Which likely means it was cross threaded and damaged when they installed it. So my next question would be, what would my best options for repair be? I could re-tap with M6, but how much material is there? Would a helicoil work?

 

[cuinrearview]

I would try the correct bolt first, you might get lucky. Choice B would be an insert. Finally, tapping to 6mm would be the last resort for me. That is not a blind hole right? Shouldn't be horrible to repair. Good luck!

 

[67L36Driver]

5mm x .8 Helicoil. Takes all of 15 minutes.

One can even use them in plastic Farm Boss chassis to fix stripped holes. [emoji108]

 

[HiOctane]

Husqvarna used to sell an insert for those "special" bolts. Dont know if still available.Thats the right bolt to hold the brake lever.

 

[sunfish]

Very good saw & worth fixing right!!!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Just a WAG, but you might have enough case metal there to simply use a longer M5 x .8. The female threads further in may be OK and enough to hold it. Try that and if it also fails to hold, the helicoil is next.

 

[Huskitoter]

The ipl shows the same screw is used on both sides of the handle. Try it on the other side.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The ipl shows the same screw is used on both sides of the handle. Try it on the other side.

Yes, and consider a slightly longer bolt for the brake handle should unstripped female threads in the case are available for the bolt to reach.

 

[Buzzaro]

I was mistaken. The bolt does not go into the case itself. It is the correct bolt though that I have. It matches the chain side bolt.

 

[Huskitoter]

That IS the crankcase. Don't you imagine a previous owner lost the screw and buggered the threads by using a screw with different threads? That's my guess.

You can retap it to whatever thread you want. A standard screw with a stack of flat washers will work if you can't find a shoulder bolt to match.

Good idea Wood Doctor, but the bolt is right at the same length as the hole.

 

[Buzzaro]

That IS the crankcase. Don't you imagine a previous owner lost the screw and buggered the threads by using a screw with different threads? That's my guess.

You can retap it to whatever thread you want. A standard screw with a stack of flat washers will work if you can't find a shoulder bolt to match.

Yeah, you're right. I didn't realize the crankcase was all one (well two halves) piece like that. I had a small engine pictured in my head that was bolted to an orange chassis. The good news for me though is that this bolt isn't going into a critical part of the case assembly where there isn't much material to work with, which was my big worry. In this case given where it is and the room behind it, I can use a through bolt with a washer and nut as well if it comes to that.
Thanks everyone for your help, very much appreciated.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Try running an m5x.8 tap through that hole and see what happens.

 

[cuinrearview]

Those look like the bolts holding the cylinder down on one of @cus_deluxe 's saws.

 

[Huskitoter]

You were right - we do like the pics. It looks like you're gonna get a little workout if you split that by hand.

Other than the screw, how do like the 357?